Waterford & the Copper Coast highlights: a 3-day travel guide
- Karyn Farrell
- 6 days ago
- 16 min read
It seems the secret is out: Waterford is fast becoming one of the hottest places to visit in Ireland. And don't just take my word for it. It's been named the top destination in Ireland by Condé Nast Traveller, and has topped their list of the 7 Wonders of Ireland for the second year in a row. Not only that, it's often mentioned as one of the country's best places to live. I've come armed with some local insider knowledge, courtesy of a friend who migrated from the capital and has never looked back. After spending three days here, I can only concur.
Waterford has often been overlooked by tourists in favour of neighbouring counties Wexford and Cork but slowly the tide is starting to turn. Major infrastructural projects like the Waterford Greenway have lured active-minded visitors to parts of the country that had largely been ignored, while the redevelopment of the gorgeous Mount Congreve Garden estate has also been a huge draw. And with scenic views to blow your socks off, the ruggedly beautiful Copper Coast is dotted with countless hidden coves and secluded beaches which you'll most likely have all to yourself.
To top it off, Waterford is now becoming a top destination for foodies. In addition to high-end offerings like Momo and Bodega in Waterford City, I'm impressed by the number of small independent cafés and restaurants, and the focus on seasonal, locally sourced produce. Seafood lovers will be in heaven.
Another massive selling point is the compact nature of the county. Taking Waterford City as a base, places like Dunmore East, Tramore, the beaches of the Copper Coast and Dungarvan are a relatively short drive in either direction. It's worth noting that access to a car is hugely advantageous, if not essential, to fully explore the nooks and crannies of its coastline. While public transport does cover some of these areas, services are sporadic and inconsistent. If you're visiting from abroad, consider renting a car. I've always found Discover Cars to offer the best value, comparing prices across 700 suppliers.
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Contents:
Waterford City
My base for three days is Waterford, Ireland's oldest city. Founded by the Vikings in 914, it's a compact and historically significant port city running along the banks of the River Suir. Remnants of its medieval past are still visible today, most significantly the 11th century fortifications of Reginald's Tower at the eastern end of town. This marks the start of the Viking Triangle, the city's historic and cultural hub which follows the outline of the original city walls.
Its historic centre boasts a number of elegant Georgian buildings, and the pedestrianisation of some of its inner streets makes it a pleasure to explore on foot. I take a wander down Little Lane to a charming independent secondhand bookshop of the same name. Inside it's cosy and intimate, its walls lined with a delightfully eclectic range of books while Lauren Laverne's BBC Sounds is playing in the background. Jim sits behind the counter and seems to know some customers by name. "No problem, pay me later", he says to one gentleman. You don't get service like that in a faceless chain.
I leave with a Julian Barnes, a Jane Harper and one of my favourite newly-discovered authors Lucy Caldwell. Every town needs a little bookshop like this.
Little Lane Bookshop, 28 Spring Garden Alley, Waterford, X91 TW08
Now for some culture. Get your caffeine fix at Trade Coffee before checking out the exhibitions on show at Waterford Gallery of Art or GOMA Gallery of Contemporary Art.
But you don't have to visit a gallery to experience Waterford's artistic offerings. It could be said that the city is one large outdoor gallery, its walls lined with some truly remarkable street art. Each time I visit, there seems to be a new piece to admire. If you have the time, the Waterford Walls Guided Art Trail Walk is a brilliant introduction to its collection giving an insider perspective and background on over 60 murals dotted across the city.
People's Park is a chilled-out green space on the eastern side of town with two playgrounds, a skate board park and a Pétanque (boules) area. A bandstand stands at the heart of the park. During the summer months, it's often used for musical performances. The Park Lodge Café overlooks the park and has plenty of outdoor seating and parasols for those balmy days. They make a mean iced-coffee and their omelettes are hearty and delicious too.
Where to eat in Waterford City: top picks
Momo restaurant
Momo has long been one of my favourite places to eat in Ireland and I'm delighted to see it's still as good as I remembered. With an ethos of "locally sourced and seasonally inspired" dishes, menus are endlessly inventive with excellent vegetarian and vegan options, and unsurprisingly, seafood features strongly. This is everything I want in a restaurant: exceptional food served in a relaxed, friendly atmosphere, hitting that sweet spot of attentive but not intrusive service. It feels casual and unfussy but an impeccable attention to detail lies at the heart of it all.
Lighting is low and a selection of graphic artworks add character and a sense of careful curation. On this particular evening all tables are occupied and the place is buzzing.
I tuck into a summery starter of whipped goats cheese with beetroot and toasted walnuts, followed by pan-friend hake special served with roast potatoes. On the desserts front, panacotta with cherries is the winner.
The wine list is a cracker too, featuring a thoughtful and interesting selection by the glass, bottle or carafe, at surprisingly reasonable prices (not a phrase uttered too often in Ireland these days). A Vinho Verde and Ribera del Duero offer a welcome break from the usual offerings. While the vibes are casual, the food is anything but. There's a reason it's been winning awards left, right and centre.
Momo restaurant, 47 Patrick St, Waterford, X91 DX49
Bodega
I've heard good things about Bodega and show up on a whim without a booking. I'm on my own this time and they just about manage to squeeze me in. An upmarket restaurant and wine bar, it offers Mediterranean-inspired dishes using local ingredients. It's a popular spot and on a sunny Thursday evening, it's full and buzzing with conversation. Staff are friendly and chatty, calling everyone 'love' as they hop between tables. They ask what I'm reading and we chat about books. Even though it's busy, they make time for their customers.
In a nod to the Spanish or Greek origins of the word, they've recreated the atmosphere of a 'bodega' or wine tavern in Waterford. Stripped stone walls are painted white, and low lighting comes courtesy of table lamps. Walls are lined with contemporary art with cosy nooks for a romantic meal for two.
I order Kilmore Quay & Gubbeen chorizo croquettes and they're every bit as good as they sound. I follow with the daily fish special: flaky white chunks of pan-fried cod on a bed of roast potatoes and green beans. In my humble opinion, fish from this particular coastline is a step above all others, and I've come to recognise the quality when I've had it elsewhere. Price-wise, this is special treat territory but you're paying for quality and service. The wine list hits all price points and a carafe of Tempranillo is a reasonable €22
Bodega, 54 John St, Waterford, X91 XW2R
NB: Emiliano's Restaurant is another great option. I've eaten in this hugely popular spot a few times and have always been impressed. Expect an exuberantly Italian atmosphere, a warm welcome, and rustic, hearty and delicious food.
Emiliano's Restaurant, 21 High St, Waterford, X91 YX39
Where to stay in Waterford City
Tower Hotel
There are few better moments than checking into your hotel room and realising you've been given a complimentary upgrade... I've got the best room in the house - a corner suite on the third floor with epic views. A large bedroom overlooks the river and Reginald's Tower, while the adjoining sitting/dining area offers sweeping views of the surrounding countryside.
I sleep like a log both nights in the huge comfortable bed, and wake to see the sun rising over the river each day. The bathroom boasts both a bath and a powerful rain shower: options for a relaxing end to each day, and an invigorating start to each morning. If you can afford an upgrade, this room is worth the money.
The staff are their biggest asset, and it's that hospitality and attention to the small details that give them an edge on their competitors. The hotel has been given a massive upgrade in recent years though there is still room for improvement. While the dining room is fabulous, with wall-to-ceiling windows offering expansive river and city views, the breakfast selection on offer feels dated and could be vastly improved. Car parking can also be a challenge. With one outdoor parking area to the rear, it's often full with cars parked in every square inch of space, including non-designated areas.
Tower Hotel, The Mall, Waterford, X91 VXE0
For other accommodation options in the area, scroll through the map below.
Points of interest, restaurants and bars featured in this article are pinned on the map above for your convenience
Why Waterford is worth visiting: great things to see and do
Waterford Greenway: from Waterford City to Dungarvan
Waterford City is a great jumping off point for many attractions in the area. One of its most popular is the Waterford Greenway, a 46km-long cycling and walking trail connecting Waterford city to Dungarvan to the west. It's peaceful, safe and entirely off-road though you will be required to cross a few junctions throughout.
*I cycled the Greenway with my husband back in August 2020 and not on this occasion - my detailed blog post on the full route can be found here but here's a short overview of what you can expect.
The landscape is diverse and the route is scenic with forests, golden fields, and mountain and river views to enjoy along the route. At the Waterford end, a pitstop to visit the Mount Congreve Gardens and Country Estate is highly recommended and one of the access points leads directly from the Greenway. And while I didn't have time to visit in 2020, I spent a few hours here on this occasion. More detail further down in this piece.
If cycling the full route (and I recommend that you do), you'll cross three viaducts in total, with the Comeragh Mountains as a backdrop. The 400-metre long Ballyvoyle tunnel is a highlight, an atmospheric, brick-lined tunnel dramatically lit from within. On approach from the Waterford side, there is a dense high wall of greenery on either side, decorated with a series of fairy doors.
One of the reasons I recommend starting from Waterford and heading west is the final stretch along the coast road. As we round the headland, that first glimpse of the sea and the Copper Coast is simply breathtaking and a good distraction from your aching legs. The sweeping views of Clonlea Strand, one of Waterford’s EU Blue Flag beaches, are definitely worth hopping off your bike for.
Practical information on bike hire, route options and a handy map can be found on the Greenways Ireland site here.
A boutique hotel in Dungarvan
On our last visit, we stayed in the lovely Tannery in Dungarvan, which sadly closed its doors this year. However, there's a new kid in town: The Hat Maker Boutique Hotel, an elegant townhouse in a historic heritage building. I have it on good authority from friends who stayed there recently, that it lives up to the hype with luxurious furnishings, eclectic and carefully-curated décor, and a great cocktail bar. What more could you need after a 46 km cycle?
The Hat Maker Boutique Hotel, 12 Parnell street, Dungarvan, Co. Waterford, X35 V577
Mount Congreve: one of the great gardens of the world
One of the key landmarks on the Greenway is Mount Congreve Gardens and Country Estate. Home to seventy acres of woodland, a walled garden and sixteen kilometres of walkways, it's close to Kilmeaden and directly accessible from the Greenway with an alternative main entrance close to the car park.
The Stables Café is the perfect coffee-and-cake pit stop: on a sunny day, enjoy an al-fresco lunch on the terrace overlooking the gardens, while on chillier days, the beautifully restored stone building has large round windows overlooking the grounds. The ethos is very much on sustainability and on seasonal, locally-sourced produce. Find out more here.
April is an idyllic time to visit the gardens. All around, there are literally thousands of plants, trees and shrubs exploding in a symphony of spring colours. As a prolific plant killer (unintentionally of course...), I take my hat off to its team of gardeners and landscape designers.
There are a number of different walk options to enjoy, depending on time and energy levels. The Fragrant Walk is the shortest at just 20 minutes, and is exactly as it sounds - a path through a richly-perfumed environment of ever-changing scents. I also spend an hour on the Woodland Walk where the azaleas are in full bloom. It's a windy day, and all around me their petals are swirling and circling the paths like confetti. It's quite a sight to behold.
I amble aimlessly through the woodland, absorbed in the sights, sounds and smells of nature. Birds are singing sweetly in the trees above and banks of bluebells line the pathways as I walk. At times I follow the path of the river with the Greenway track to my right. There's a dizzying array of colours on every level and terrace.
Points of interest include a waterfall, rockery, a pagoda and a Classically-inspired temple - there are particularly stunning views from the latter. After a busy few weeks, it seems complete immersion in nature was exactly what was needed. I feel my shoulders relax and my nervous system reset.
Adult standard ticket: €12.50 online. Children under 16 go free. Other concessions available. Info here
Mount Congreve Gardens & Country Estate, Mount Congreve, Kilmeaden, Co. Waterford, X91 PX05
Lafcadio Hearn Japanese Gardens, Tramore
The Lafcadio Hearn Japanese Gardens is tucked away behind a high stone wall on a quiet side-street in Tramore. What a little gem this place is - an enchanting homage to a remarkable writer, traveller and man of the world, and a tranquil place of great curation and beauty.
Lafcadio Hearn (1850-1904) should be far better-known than he is. It was an exhibition in Farmleigh House in Dublin last summer that piqued my interest in his life work. Kwaidan – Encounters With Lafcadio Hearn featured Japanese and Irish artists producing prints in response to Kwaidan, his world-renowned collection of Japanese ghost stories. The exhibition was beautiful, but the accompanying biographical information about his life really drew me in, and is what led me to visit Tramore on this occasion.
Of Irish-Greek descent, he spent his childhood summers in Tramore, before making a name for himself as a writer in the States. He led a fascinating life, even bagging an extremely well-paid travel writing gig in Mauritius, before eventually falling in love with Japan and a Japanese woman. This was the turning point in his life, and a place where he remained for the rest of his days. As well as lecturing at the University of Tokyo, he received great acclaim for his collections of Japanese ghost stories and supernatural folk tales. He became loved and respected in his adopted country, and there's even a museum dedicated to him in the city of Matsue. Yet in Ireland, he's barely known. Except here in Tramore, of course.
Described as his 'living biography', the series of eleven small interconnected gardens are absolutely beautiful, each one representing a different aspect of his life, work and travels. The suggested route starts at the Victorian Garden, a nod to his happy childhood summers in Tramore.
A winding path takes us through his American Journey and onto the amphitheatre-shaped Greek Garden, commemorating his place of birth. A 100 year old olive tree stands at its heart. From now on in we're in Japanese territory, with burbling rockeries and water features, a traditional tea house and garden, and a wooden bridge across a stream, surrounded by woodland.
Towards the end is the pièce de résistance, the aptly titled Garden of Peace and Harmony. A stone bench is strategically placed for full immersion in nature, overlooking a large garden pond surrounded by trees and plants. In April, it's ablaze with colour, a vibrant Japanese Maple standing out from the crowd. Cocooned beneath the trees, the hypnotic sound of water trickling over rocks is calming and soothing, while the air is positively humming with birdsong. My Merlin Bird Identification app can't keep up.
Towards the end of the route is a dignified memorial: a bronze sculpture of Lafcadio Hearn, donated by the city of Matsue. In the distance I catch a glimpse of the sea and the air is filled with the subtle fragrance of spring and its blossoms. It's a glorious sunny day and a gentle breeze casts moving shadows from the leaves above. I'm the only visitor and in that moment, I feel a sense of connection to this man. His was a fascinating and rich life, and I want to know more.
Building works are currently underway with plans for a café and cultural centre to open in summer 2026. If you're in the area, it's absolutely unmissable.
Lafcadio Hearn Japanese Gardens, Tramore House, Pond Rd, Tramore East, Tramore, Co. Waterford, X91 DE48
Waterford Travel Guide: The Copper Coast: one of Ireland's most scenic coastlines
It's my first time driving along the Copper Coast and I'm blown away by how epic and strangely beautiful this landscape is. An area of profound geological significance and a designated UNESCO Global Geopark, its 25 kilometre route is lined with towering and rugged sea cliffs, arches and stacks, and strangely alien rock formations. As the signs tell us, we're bearing witness to a mere 460 million years of history before our eyes.
There are countless scenic coves and sheltered bays dotted along the coastline, and two Blue Flag Beaches at Clonea and Bunmahon. Even on a warm and sunny April afternoon, there are few people around and I pretty much have each place to myself.
There are almost too many stopping points to mention on this 25 kilometre stretch of coastline, but here are a few highlights... My first stop-off point is Garrarus Strand, about ten minutes from Tramore. It's quite a sight on approach: a dramatically craggy cove, enclosed by imposing sea cliffs. I sit on the shore and watch waves crashing over the black volcanic rock formations which line the pebbly beach. The shimmering sea is like a mirage, like the waves are raining drops of silver on the water.
A few kilometres further up the coast is the beautiful Kilfarrasy Strand a striking sheltered cove not dissimilar to Garrarus, except for the long stretch of golden sand instead of pebbles. The black volcanic rock is even more prevalent here, like a strange lunar landscape.
Annestown Beach is another beauty but there are other reasons to park up here. The Anne Valley trail is just a short distance away, a scenic off-road nature walk stretching from Annestown to its pinnacle at Dunhill Castle. It's a 5km one-way linear route following the path of the River Anne through woodland and wetland, an area rich in wildlife and natural beauty. Keep your eyes peeled for herons, kingfishers, or maybe even an otter. It's an easy walk on mainly flat terrain, and fully accessible for wheelchairs and buggies.
Perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the valley are the remains of Dunhill Castle, a 13th century tower house. The castle is a short but steep climb from the Dunhill Castle and Graveyard carpark but after walking 16kms already that day, it felt like a mountain. However, it's totally worth it for the sprawling views across the landscape.
More information on parking, and start and end points here
There are a few more places on my itinerary before I head for home. Top of the list is Bunmahon Beach, a long sandy Blue Flag beach sheltered by cliffs. A boardwalk runs along the top of the dunes with strategically placed seats to enjoy the views.
Worth noting: Bunmahon Beach is popular with surfers due to its high waves. For that same reason, swimming here is not advised unless you are a very strong swimmer.
The best vantage point of Bunmahon Beach is from the Trá na mBó cliff walk, on the other side of the carpark. The trail runs across the top of the cliffs and from the earliest stages, the views are utterly jaw-dropping. From up here the water is turquoise in colour, the waves crashing against the shore and the rocks below.
There were many 'wow' moments on this trip, but none more so than my first glimpse of Trá na mBó, a secluded cove nestled at the bottom of the cliffs. One lone sea stack stands as a reminder that these rugged forms have been eroded and chiseled into shape by nature over millions of years. I stand at the edge and feel the sublime power of nature as the wind whips my hair, and waves thunder against the rocks below.
I find a roughly trodden path to the left of the sign and it's here I find paradise - a nook in the rocks with ringside seats to the best view in town. The sun is shining and the water glints like silver against the craggy cliff-face. Wildflowers spurt from cracks in the rocks, and seagulls swoop and dive from crevices in the cliffs. Down below, the sea is foaming like a bath. I lose track of how long I sit here, taking it all in.
Worth noting: There are a series of steep steps down to the beach but don't forget - you'll have to scale them again to leave... It's totally worth it though.
Dunmore East
On the southeastern coast of Waterford is Dunmore East, a picturesque fishing village with a lighthouse and a marina lined with colourful boats. There are epic views on approach of its vast sandy beach, and just a short walk from the marina is the Dunmore East Cliff Walk. The full trail is just under 15 kms out-and-back, a linear route to Ballymacaw Cove, but it can be walked in shorter sections if, like me, you don't have time to do the full thing. More info here.
Eating and Drinking in Dunmore East:
East Pier
I have it on good authority that this is where you need to park yourself after completing the cliff walk, though sadly it was closed the day I visited. A strategic location on the cliff-end of the marina , this looks like the place to be on a sunny evening. Its selling point is an appealing outdoor seating area with a tempting menu, unsurprisingly mainly seafood-based. Its known for its fresh fish and chips, but I'm drawn to its other offerings like Crab or Lobster Brioche.
They also have an excellent variety of craft beers and sparkling wines to complete the party. Definitely worth a return visit. East Pier, The Harbour, Dunmore East, Co. Waterford
Dunmore East Park and Woods
A worthy alternative to the cliff walk is a leisurely stroll through Dunmore East Park and Woods. There are a number of pathways running through lush areas of woodland, and the park has fabulous sea views to enjoy.
Ladies Cove
As my legs are finally starting to give way and the sun is dropping low in the sky, I make my way down some steps to Ladies Cove, just a short distance from the main beach in Dunmore East. This lovely sheltered cove has a stony beach and is enclosed with trees on either side. It's popular with swimmers and also ideal for snorkeling.
It's a fitting end to a fabulous few days. The sunny south-east has really lived up to its name, and my appetite to see more of this county has been well and truly whetted. I plan to come back again later in the summer and explore the western side of the county. Top of my list is the Ardmore Cliff walk and Lismore Castle. Watch this space for the West Waterford Travel Guide part II
Happy travelling,
Karyn xx
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