Three days in Marseille: travel guide for first-time visitors
- Karyn Farrell
- May 2
- 16 min read
Updated: May 6
Exploring the city's vibrant neighbourhoods: great things to see and do in this underrated city
Vieux port. Marseille
First impressions of Marseille... A sparkly sea with boats bobbing in the harbour. Sunny day vibes at the old port -
people sitting with their legs dangling over the edge, chatting and slurping ice-creams before they melt in the afternoon sun. Brazilian buskers rocking a bossa nova beat on the pier. An infectious exuberance and energy in the air.
It was love at first sight.
There's a vivacity and liveliness to this city, yet it never feels overwhelming or too much. There's loads to see and do, and the people are some of the friendliest I've met on my French travels. The architecture is fabulous - an eclectic mix of new and old - and the colourful shop fronts signal a respect for tradition and for the past. It's a city of a many faces and layers: a melting pot of cultures and cuisines that make Marseille one of the most fun and exciting places to visit for a weekend break.
Disclosure: some of the links on this site are affiliate links with companies I have chosen to partner with. If you make a purchase through these, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for your support!
Contents
What to see and do
A travel guide through the characterful neighbourhoods of Marseille
Marseille is a city made for wanderers. It's compact enough to explore most of the must-see sights on foot and it's worth taking the time to explore some of its lovely neighbourhoods, each with its own distinct character. Here are some of our highlights:
Le Panier
Our first port of call is Le Panier, the picture-perfect historic district, the oldest neighbourhood in the city. I'm instantly charmed by the narrow winding streets lined with artist studios and craft shops, and with flowers bursting out of pots on every doorstep and over every balcony. Expect lots of hills and many steps but it's all part of the charm.
This neighbourhood is dotted with picturesque squares, the most delightful of which is Place des Moulins.
Place des Moulins, Marseille
Hidden away at the top of a steep incline, this little square was an entirely unexpected discovery. I turn a corner and the atmosphere changes completely. Birdsong has replaced the buzz and noise of the city down below and everything is still and quiet. A fountain stands in the centre of a postcard-perfect square lined with trees, benches and attractive houses with pastel-coloured shutters.
As the name suggests, this was originally the site of a number of windmills - fifteen to be precise, as an information plaque on the corner tells us. However, by the 19th century, this had been reduced to three, with the remains of just two visible today. Around this time, the town council carried out a regeneration project on this area, demolishing some of the older rundown buildings and recreating the charming traditional Provençal style village we see today. It's utterly delightful.
Le Panier, Marseille
Place de Lenche is another famous square, teeming with life and with loads of great spots for an apéro or two. It's mid-afternoon on a sunny Friday and I'm also enjoying getting lost in the streets around Rue du Panier and Rue du Petits Puis. There's lots of terrific street art to admire here too.
One of the most iconic landmarks in Marseille is La Vieille Charité (the Old Charity Centre). It's a special place and a must-visit. At the heart of this 17th / 18th century complex stands a striking Italian Baroque chapel, the dome of which is visible all over Le Panier (NB: it's a good orientation point when navigating the labyrinth of streets in this district).
La Vieille Charité, Marseille
Step through the gates and all the city noise melts away. The walls enclose an inner courtyard with a triple-height arcade suggestive of a cloister in an ancient monastery. The chapel steps are bookmarked by olive trees and there's a real sense of peace and calm. I sit on the sun-warmed steps and enjoy the feeling of being cocooned within these walls.
Today it functions as a multidisciplinary centre for scientific and cultural activities. Housed within are the Museum of African, Oceanic and Amerindian Arts, and the Museum of Mediterranean Archaeology. There is also a Centre for Poetry. It's free to enter the complex grounds and the museums. Tickets are required for the chapel and for temporary exhibitions.
2 Rue de la Charité, 13002
Le Vieux Port
Le Vieux Port
The old port is the beating heart of Marseille. The ridiculously picturesque harbour is overlooked by Notre Dame de la Garde, known locally as La Bonne Mère - symbol of the city and reputed protector of sailors. It stands tall on a hilltop to the south of the city and is visible from almost every point.
We head inland from the waterfront and within minutes stumble upon two wonderful bronze sculptures of a cow and a lion on stilts at the side of the Hôtel de Ville. (Sadly there is zero information about them at the site or online so I can't tell you any more...) They're just a really good example of public art.
In contrast, just around the corner is La Maison Diamantée (Diamond House), one of the oldest buildings in the city, dating back to c. 17th century, so-named due to the beautiful pointed stone design on its façade.
Rue du Lacydon catches our eye, lined with cool bars and restaurants. On the elevated square opposite Ciao Marcello people sprawl on deck chairs, enjoying an early afternoon apéro in the sun. It's enticing but there's exploring to be done. A particularly lovely feature of this square is the almost sculptural arrangement of olive trees in human-sized copper pots (please see life-sized human below as reference...)
And of course, here you'll find the iconic Marseille sign beloved of Instagrammers and small children. You might be waiting some time to get a people-free shot.
The main square is Cr Honoré d'Estienne d'Orves on the southern end of the port basin. It's pretty as a picture, lined with great places to eat and drink. We climb the steps as the evening light starts to fade and enjoy its best vantage point with the port in the background.
La Joliette
Fort St Jean, Marseille
The dockside area at La Joliette was one of my favourite parts of the city. The unofficial museum quarter, here you'll find some of Marseille's most popular tourist attractions within a few minutes of each other including MUCEM, the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations; Cosquer Méditerranée and the Musée Regards de Provence.
MUCEM and Cosquer Méditerranée
Architecturally it's a harmonious blend of old and new: the uber-modern MUCEM integrates seamlessly into the 17th century Fort Saint-Jean. In fact, the two are linked by a walkway across the sea offering fantastic views on all sides.
Passerelle Fort Saint-Jean & Passerelle Parvis St-Jean
It's Sunday morning and our last day in Marseille. We make our way to Cathédrale La Major, the monumental 19th century cathedral in the Roman-Byzantine style which straddles the neighbourhoods of La Joliette and Le Panier.
Cathédrale La Major, Place De la Major
A set of steps to the right bring us to a viewing platform at Esplanade de la Tourette which overlooks the port and gives an excellent birds-eye view of the cityscape. The ridiculously pretty 12th century Eglise Saint-Laurent stands opposite the Fort Saint-Jean, linked by the Passerelle Parvis St-Jean walkway.
Eglise St Laurent
We're surprised to find that not only is it free to enter the grounds of the fort but also that there is direct access from its terrace into the rooftop café at MUCEM via the walkway over the sea. I try not to think too much about the feat of engineering that keeps this bridge, a simple structure of sleek black concrete, suspended 19 metres above the ground without any visible reinforcement. It's all to do with the lightweight materials apparently.
Passerelle Fort Saint-Jean
The walkway brings us right onto the roof terrace with a café. At the centre stands Zeus, the metallic horse featured in the Opening Ceremony of the Paris 2024 Olympics. Every four minutes the horse is activated to gallop as it did during the ceremony.
Two external ramps lead down from the roof terrace to the ground floor and it's here that we fully get to experience the wonderful museum architecture. The concrete latticework creates a sense of airiness and light and allows for wonderful views of Fort Saint Jean and the vast open sea. It's a fabulous sensory experience and one I'd recommend to any visitors. As we were short on time, we unfortunately didn't get to visit any of the museum exhibits on this occasion but have bookmarked it for a return trip.
MUCEM, 1 Esp. J4, 13002
We did however spend a rainy afternoon in Cosquer Méditerranée, a remarkable museum experience which will certainly be a hit with kids. The original Cosquer cave was discovered entirely by accident by a scuba diver called Henri Cosquer in 1985. While diving at a depth of 36 metres at Cap de Morgiou, one of the calanques to the east of Marseille, he found himself in a vast 175 meters long cavern. His discovery turned out to be a hugely significant one - a gallery of perfectly preserved Paleolithic rock art dating back over 30,000 years with representations of deer, ibex, bison and most uniquely, penguins (see image 2 below).
Cosquer Méditerranée
The museum houses an impressive replica of the cave and offers a brilliantly clever interactive tour. The lift simulates the experience of submerging underwater which is vaguely disconcerting but effective. We then hop into one of the so-called “exploration modules" - basically a wagon on wheels that can hold up to 6 people (think ghost train vibes and you get the picture) - and enjoy a 35 minute self-guided tour of the length of the cave. They've thought of everything including recreating a cave's atmospheric conditions using clever lighting and temperature control, and sound to suggest the dripping of water.
As we wind our way through the cave in semi-darkness, our audio headsets are synchronised with the movement and some of its astonishing examples of prehistoric art are slowly revealed to us at intervals. It's very effective.
Before you leave, make sure to save time for the Galerie Méditerranée, the natural history museum on the upper floor. Booking in advance is essential.
Cosquer Méditerranée, Esplanade Robert Laffont, Marseille 2ème
Musée Regards de Provence
Our last cultural outing in Marseille is to the Musée Regards de Provence. A museum dedicated to the artistic and cultural heritage of Marseille, Provence and the Mediterranean was always going to be a winner for me. We enjoyed two exquisite exhibitions for a mere €8.50 entrance fee and pretty much had the place to ourselves.
Regards de Provence – The Public's Selection showcases an outstanding exhibition of works from the foundation's private collection including landscapes of Marseille, the Mediterranean coast, and the Provençal countryside.
Runs to 15th February 2026
Laurent Mattio, Painting the Light is a beautifully curated retrospective of the work of the Provençal painter (1892–1965) in oils, watercolour, charcoal and drawing. His ability to capture the effects of light is extraordinary.
Runs to 28th September 2025
Musée Regards de Provence, Rue Vaudoyer,
Notre-Dame-du-Mont
Cours Julien
Welcome to the hipster quarter of Marseille. Here things get a little grungier and more bohemian. The area around Cours Julien serves as an outdoor street-art gallery with remarkable examples on every corner. Its most famous landmark is the Escaliers du Cours Julien - stairs lined with graffiti art - but at the top we are surprised to find a chilled-out green space with a fountain and lined with trees. This city never ceases to defy expectations.
As you'd expect, there are oodles of galleries and vintage and second-hand shops, and cafés, bars and craft breweries abound here too. We arrive at 3pm and the main square at Cours Julien is buzzing and alive with action, from street entertainers to musicians and buskers. The terraces outside each bar are packed with people chatting, people-watching and enjoying a drink in the April sunshine. It's the place to be on a sunny Saturday afternoon. Time Out magazine ranked it as the coolest neighbourhood in the world in 2024. It's hard to disagree.
It's an approx. 15 minute walk from the Old Port.
Musée Cantini
Located between the Vieux Port and Cours Julien in an elegant private mansion, Musée Cantini has a small but worthy collection of modern and contemporary art. Primarily specialising in paintings from the first half of the twentieth century, look out for pieces by Picasso, Matisse, Derain and Dufy.
The permanent collection is free to visit. If you're visiting Marseille later this year, there's a Giacometti exhibition running from June to September 2025. More info here
Musée Cantini, 19 Rue Grignan, 13006
Vauban
Viewing platform, Notre Dame de la Garde
Vauban is famous for two reasons: Notre Dame de la Garde and hills. Lots of very steep hills. Your calves won't thank you but the payoff is some truly magnificent views of the city from above. There's a cool, relaxed vibe to this neighbourhood and a village feel with bougie boutiques, yoga studios and trendy spots for brunch standing side-by-side with traditional boulangeries, cheese shops and patisseries.
But of course the main reason visitors venture to Vauban is to visit Notre Dame de la Garde - La Bonne Mére of the city of Marseille. The basilica towers 154 metres above the city from the hilltop of Garde, and its viewing platforms offer a spectacular 360 degree panorama of the city, the sea and the islands of Frioul and If. The latter is home to the Château d'If, of Count of Monte Cristo fame. The views up here are truly jaw-dropping.
Viewing platform, Notre Dame de la Garde
The basilica itself dates to the 19th century, though there was a small chapel on this site as far back as the 13th. The iconic stripes of the Roman-Byzantine style might look a little familiar - architect Henry Espérandieu was also involved in the design of the Cathédrale La Major.
Tip: if a 45 minute steep uphill climb doesn't sound like your thing, you can take the no. 60 city bus from Vieux Port.
Basilica Notre Dame de la Garde, Rue Fort du Sanctuaire, 13281
Eating and drinking in Marseille
Placette
A free table on a tree-lined sunny courtyard leads us to Placette, a spontaneous lunch choice that turned out to be one of the best meals of our trip. A short but sweet lunch menu offers a mix of salads and hot dishes. Meat and fish lovers will be very happy but vegetarians and vegans are catered for too. Staff are young, super-friendly and clearly know their stuff.
Our waiter returns with a bottle of Rosé. It's light and peachy and tastes like sunshine. Smiles all around. And then our dishes arrive. Silence descends as we tuck in. Murmurs of approval reverberate around the table. My Pavé de Thonine - a seared tuna steak - is a stunner, served with red rice, aioli mayo and some of the most delicious vegetables I've ever tasted. Paul's lamb chop makes him territorial. He tries to hide the delectable buttery dauphinoise mash but he's forced to share.
This is a top-notch little spot which does everything right. A place to linger for hours on a warm sunny evening.
Placette, Rue de la Guirlande, 13002
Copains
It's Friday night and our first dinner in Marseille. We have high hopes for Copains after reading numerous glowing reviews. It comes up trumps and we are blown away by the standard of food and service. An upmarket restaurant and wine bar without any pretensions, they offer a choice of set-menu only (€52 for five courses or €62 for six courses) with even better value available at lunchtime.
Menus are innovative and inspiring using fresh seasonal produce in creative ways, for example, a traditional Pissaladière (onion tart) is transformed into a mousse and eaten with a spoon. Sounds bizarre, tastes incredible. We scoop out every last mouthful. Pork schnitzel is served in a miso and cashew bouillon. A melon, basil and feta salad is a deliciously fresh amuse-bouche. A meringue with zingy rhubarb sauce is a delightful end to the meal.
Staff are super-friendly and happy to advise on wine. The atmosphere is relaxed and fun. A great little spot on the edge of vibey Notre-Dame-du-Mont.
Copains, 93 Rue de Tilsit, 13006
Coquille
Coquille is a renowned seafood restaurant on a side street off the old port. It's Saturday night and the place is buzzing.
We go all in, ordering seafood and scallop carpaccio to start, followed by ray on a bed of buttery mash, and a stunning
seared tuna in pepper sauce - a miraculous combination of flavours. We wash it down with a light Rosé and just about manage to squeeze in a shared dessert of apple crumble with cream. It deserves its reputation.
Coquille, 8 Rue Euthymènes, 13001 Marseille, France
La Bonne Mère
Not to be confused with seafood restaurant La Bonne Mer across the street, this is a laid-back pizzeria with friendly staff and a cosy, welcoming atmosphere. A perfect spot to carb-load after a hike up to Notre Dame de la Garde.
La Bonne Mère, 16 Rue Fort du Sanctuaire, 13006
Ciao Marcello
A fun Neapolitan pizzeria within walking distance of the old port. After three days of over-indulging in bread, we opt for a healthier lunch option, the Salade du Jour. It's excellent: a wonderful combination of fresh crunchy green veg with mortadella and parmesan and a zesty citrus dressing. A pichet of rosé is a mere €14.
Tip: for lazy evening drinks, nab one of their stripey sun loungers on the elevated terrace.
Ciao Marcello, 4 Rue du Lacydon, 13002 Marseille, France
Glacier Vanille Noire
You can't come to Marseille without sampling the iconic vanille noire (black vanilla) ice-cream from this artisan glacier. It's our first visit so they offer us a little sample before purchase. There's the slightest touch of salt and it's delicious. We're sold.
Glacier Vanille Noire, 15 Rue Caisserie (other outlets at Place Lorette and Place de l'Opera)
Great bars
Les Berthom
I'll preface this by saying you'll be spoiled for choice. There are great bars on every corner but here are just a few of our favourites. It's worth noting that beer in Marseille can be pricey but there's great value to be had if you like wine, especially if you venture a little bit out from the city centre. You're guaranteed a decent glass almost everywhere you go.
You may notice older men and women tippling away at streetside bars as early as 11am with small glasses containing a cloudy yellow liquid. Welcome to Marseille - home of pastis, the iconic aniseed-flavoured apéritif. It may be an acquired taste for some (I love it) but there's no doubting its palette-cleansing qualities. It also makes an excellent digestif if you've over-indulged. Just add a splash of water. It's cheap as chips and available everywhere.
Julis
Head for the hills in the 7th arrondissement to one of the city's vibiest cocktail and tapas bars. After yet another steep climb we find Julis in an unexpected location, off the beaten track and behind a public garden. A casual sister to the more upmarket Sépia next door, the set-up is not dissimilar to a wooden chalet with a bar at one end. High stools along the window offer prime views of the city down below.
Cocktails are excellent - we opt for Mais Oui, C'est Clair, their take on an Old Fashioned, and Un Mezcal a l'Amer, a twist on the Negroni. Staff are super-friendly and tunes are great - a pefect spot to while away a few hours on a Saturday evening. Bookings are recommended.
Julis, 2 Rue Vauvenargues, 13007 Marseille
Bar Le Campagne
A casual bar with a distinctly local vibe, Le Campagne feels like a world away from the tourist hotspots around the old port. You'll find it on the outskirts of ultra-cool neighbourhood Notre-Dame-du-Mont. It's Friday evening and we're the only out-of-towners on the terrace. Staff are really friendly and seem to know everyone by name. We order a Spritz and a glass of wine. We're enjoying the atmosphere and order another two glasses of red. The bill for four drinks = €16.
Bar Le Campagne, 41 Rue Château Payan, 13005
Les Berthom
One for beer lovers... This buzzing spot offers a huge variety of craft beers, bottled and on draft and predominantly Belgian. It's a friendly spot with a laid back atmosphere.
Les Berthom, 31 Cr Honoré d'Estienne d'Orves, 13001
Where to stay:
Deluxe room, New Hotel Le Quai - Vieux Port
Look no further than New Hotel Le Quai - Vieux Port, a fabulous boutique hotel in a super location - two minutes from the Vieux Port and 1 minute from a Metro stop. Our deluxe room was dreamy - bright and spacious with huge windows overlooking the pretty streets and a sideways view of the port.
What we liked: a really comfortable bed with good quality linen and huge pillows. The restful colour scheme in the bedroom, and the deep blue bathroom tiles that make you feel as though you are surrounded by sea. A powerful rain-shower and a bath. l'Occitane products. Thoughtful attention to detail - a handy check-in card with all the room and facility details which doubled as a fold-out city map. Glass bottles of water. A Nespresso machine and some delicious herbal teas.
Breakfast was pretty good but some improvements are needed. Expect the usuals: yoghurt, bread, pastries, cheeses and meats etc... and brownie points are given for the crêpes with maple syrup. It falls down a little with some very average coffee from a machine, and a lack of fresh fruit.
But this is a very minor gripe - we loved this hotel and would definitely stay here again next time we come to Marseille.
New Hotel Le Quai - Vieux Port, 2 Pl. Gabriel Péri, 13001
Is Marseille worth visiting?
100% yes, just in case that wasn't obvious yet. It has an irresistible appeal and vivacity that puts other cities in the shade, and its inhabitants are warm, welcoming and friendly. The architecture is beautiful, and it feels like they've really considered the public's best interests in their urban planning. The food scene is exceptional - we didn't have a bad meal - and there is great value for money to be had if you're willing to venture a little outside the main tourist spots.
The location is idyllic, with both the city and the sea on your doorstep.
With a reputation for being somewhat grimy and dangerous in the past, that was not our experience on any level. It felt safe to walk around at any part of the day or night, and we felt entirely at ease.
It's an alluring, underrated city but I suspect that won't last for much longer. Word is starting to spread so don't leave it too long to plan a visit.
Getting there and getting around: all you need to know
Fly direct with Aer Lingus or Ryanair from Dublin to Marseille-Provence Airport. The cheapest way and most direct way to get to the city centre is the shuttle bus to St Charles station which departs every ten minutes from 7am to 8pm . Tickets are €10 one way and it takes approx 35 minutes. Find out more here
If you're planning on regularly using public transport, pick up a 24h (5.20€) or a 72h ticket (10.80€) from the ticket machines in any of the Métro stations. They cover travel on Métro, tram and bus. For a longer stay, consider an RTM 7-day pass for 15.50€. Full details here
For car hire, one of the best value sites we've used to date is Discover Cars, comparing prices across 700 suppliers.
Traveling with a group? Welcome Pickups offer excellent value for money and a reliable airport transfer service. Book your transfer here
For a greener public transport option, France's main cities are very well connected by rail, with reasonably priced fares too. Trainline is my go-to site of choice for train bookings: it's user-friendly with cheaper fares than other sites. Book here.
Need to leave your bags somewhere for a few hours? For €5 per bag per day, Radical Storage conveniently has outlets all over Marseille. Book in advance here.
Bon voyage!
Karyn xx
Comentarios