Impressions of the Cote Vermeille: from Leucate to Collioure
- Karyn Farrell
- Aug 14, 2019
- 17 min read
Updated: Feb 18
Sunrise, Collioure
It's not hard to see why artists like Matisse, Derain and Dufy were drawn to the picturesque towns on the Côte Vermeille or Vermillion Coast, a short stretch of shoreline stretching from Argelès-sur-Mer to the border with Spain. This area is an artist's dream with a beauty to render you speechless. Over six days we spend hours just sitting and staring at the dappled effects of light hitting the Mediterranean waters at varying times: the pinkish hues of the sky as the sun rose over Collioure, the fading golden light as the sun dropped behind the hills at sunset; the shimmering effects of city lights falling on water at night; boats moving slowly across glass-like seas.
The Côte Vermeille is one of France's best-kept secrets. Of course the French are privy to its charms but it's a far cry from the tourist-laden towns and beaches that line the Côte d'Azur, better known as the Riviera. And it's a whole lot cheaper too. This is where many French people go on holidays and it's easy to see why. Each town is more charming than the one before, people are warm and welcoming, the wines from the Languedoc region are some of the best in the world (in my opinion anyway) and the fresh seafood makes an occasion of every meal.
What's also special about this area is the blend of French and Catalan culture. The region bordering Spain is the Pyrenees-Orientales, known to some as northern Catalonia due to the close cultural links with the Catalan region to the south. You'll notice things like the dual street-names and signposts, as well as the vast number of tapas restaurants that pop up on every corner serving small plates, but with a French twist.
Contents:
Cote Vermeille: Leucate
Our first sighting of the Cote Vermeille (albeit in the far distance) is from the ruins of a chateau, high above the gorgeous village of Leucate, our first stopping off point after a few days in Carcassonne. Leucate stands on a peninsula sandwiched between the Mediterranean and the lagoon Étang de Leucate, roughly halfway between Narbonne and Perpignan. Interestingly it was the old frontier between France & Spain (today's border is about 95 kilometres south of here) and this castle was the last defensive bastion. The territory south of here was historically part of Spain but was relinquished to France through the signing of the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659. There are stunning 360 degree views from the chateau which overlooks the town, and the bay and was the most perfect place to watch the sun sink in the sky as the evening light faded. We were watched over by the Lady of Leucate, Françoise de Cezelly, who sacrificed her husband to save the town from the Spanish during the taking of the city in 1590.
We are drawn to Leucate as our first coastal stopping-off point by a guesthouse which doubles as an art gallery. I'm a sucker for independent boutique hotels and will pretty much plan a holiday around my accommodation if I find something I like. And that's pretty much what happened here. This is La Galerie, a glorious townhouse on the main square - Place de la République.
The guesthouse is quirky with a small number of rooms which are all uniquely decorated. It's run and managed by a young artist Nicolas Galtier - his paintings are hanging throughout the house and the décor is eclectic with a mix of old and contemporary pieces which work really well.
We're shown to our lodgings in the Gold Room, large, bright and airy with big sash windows. The bathroom is large with brightly tiled floors and a powerful shower. The communal areas are also beautifully decorated with works of art everywhere.
A continental breakfast is included in the price and is eaten communally in the dining area downstairs. Expect plenty of crusty bread, jams, cheese and meats, croissants, fruit and yoghurt, as well as orange juice and coffee. Nicolas is a great host with lots of spot-on recommendations on things to do and places to eat, as well as interesting snippets of information about the area.
Aside from the guesthouse, the village of Leucate itself is so picturesque with an olde-worlde charm that feels almost like stepping back in time. We stepped out of our front door onto Place de la République, the central square which plays host to a market on a number of evenings and mornings per week. On the evening we arrived it was bustling as vendors sold jewellery and craft items while others sat in the evening sun and enjoyed an aperitif. A gentleman was selling old-fashioned music boxes and their delightful tunes rang softly through the air as we wandered the streets.
This is Leucate life - gentle and sleepy and exactly what we wanted at that point of our holiday. It has to be one of the prettiest coastal towns in France. All of the houses and buildings are painted in the most gorgeous pastel shades with bright pops of colour on the shutters, and flowers everywhere. It's a tranquil place and you can't help but shift pace here and relax. I loved sitting in the square in the evening, watching the world go by and listening to the chatter of the locals, some in their strange Catalan-tinged French accents.
Yes it's quiet but don't let that put you off. There are many reasons to visit Leucate and here are just a few:
The beach: Leucate Plage
The village is located just 3 kilometres from Leucate Plage, one of a number of beaches along the 16 kilometres of Mediterranean shoreline with a dedicated walkway / cycleway from the village. You won't have to vie for space here - this is not the Riviera. We arrive in mid-July and have plenty of space to sit and enjoy the view. There's an area to hire sun-loungers which, of course, tends to be busier but we didn't see the need. The beach is vast and pretty much unpopulated so we enjoy a little corner of paradise to ourselves. The water is crystal clear and the perfect temperature for dipping in and out. Bliss.
For those seeking a more active beach experience, this is the land of water-sports. Plage de la Franqui is on the northern side of the peninsula and the high winds create the perfect conditions for surfers. It's a beautiful spot with a white sandy beach.
And now for lunch. After an exhausting morning reading, we are ready to eat. Nicolas had recommended this spot - Le Poulpe - a restaurant right on the beach so we didn't have to go too far. It has terrific seaside views but as you could expect, you pay for that. Prices were substantially higher than in the village but we don't mind too much. It's good to escape from the heat of the day but still be able to enjoy the lovely coastline. The food is pleasant enough but nothing to write home about it. Highlights are the rocket and parmesan salad, crab croquettes and patatas bravas, though the amount of raw garlic in the aioli is enough to kill a man at a hundred paces.
However, it's a nice spot to enjoy yet another glass of Rosé. And apparently this is the place to be at night. The bar opens late, they often have DJs and their cocktail list is impressive. So if the peace and tranquility of the village is too much for you, you know where to head.
Where to eat: a flawless meal in Leucate Village
35 Bis, Place de la République, Leucate village
35 Bis is an outstanding restaurant in every way. Located just at the corner of the main square it's an approximately thirty second walk from our front door. We are lucky enough to bag ourselves the last outdoor table on the terrace above. By 8:30 pm, the place is absolutely hopping. I'd advise booking ahead if you're considering it.
The cuisine is innovative and modern with a fresh twist on traditional French dishes. The focus is on locally sourced, seasonal ingredients and the presentation is superb. My starter is a stunner: salmon tartare on a round of shortbread with a creamy parmesan mousse on top. What an extraordinary blend of complementary flavours.
The standard remains high for our mains: sea bass with a squid tagliatelle for me, topped with shaved asparagus and cherry tomatoes. The sea bass is cooked to perfection with a crispy skin to be devoured. The tagliatelle is such a great accompaniment with the subtlest seafood flavour and perfectly al-dente. Our shared vegetables taste like they've been plucked from the garden mere minutes before. Martin's fillet of beef is also a winner, accompanied by a side of Dauphinoise potatoes which are half-heartedly shared with moi. I wouldn't have shared them.
Desserts are beautifully presented and we enjoy a really good bottle of Corbières red for €22. In a nutshell, this is high-end cuisine without the price tag. Their set-menu is €33 for three courses, ridiculously good value when you consider the quality of the food - an absolute masterclass in every way.
We also enjoy a casual meal at Le Bistro Lab looked after by a super friendly server who is happy to recommend dishes and an accompanying wine. We love our starters in particular - an excellent Greek-style salad and a smoked haddock tartare with pomegranate. The Il Passant Syrah she suggests is perfect - light and smooth and goes perfectly with our food.
That concludes the Leucate leg of our travels. We stayed here for two nights which is pretty much all the time you would need to explore the village. It's very compact with all the action happening around Place de la République. But if you're interested in a beach holiday or in water sports you should take more time here to explore the beautiful coastline.
Closest airport is Perpignan and you can fly direct from Dublin with Aer Lingus though flights can be pricey during summer months. Montpellier (Aer Lingus- 130 kms) or Carcassonne (Ryanair - 87kms) could also be an option if you're thinking of hiring a car. For car hire, one of the best value sites we've used to date is Discover Cars, comparing prices across 700 suppliers.
There is plenty of free 24-hour car parking in Leucate at the Boulodrome - an outdoor public parking area which is less than five minutes' walk out of the village.
Collioure
I first heard about Collioure from an artist. Over the years he painted numerous scenes which captured the seasons and the fleeting effects of light on the buildings and the water. It looked picture-perfect to me with its red-roofed buildings contrasting beautifully with the deep-blue sea.
Then when I first met my husband, he told me that it was one of his favourite places. It took some time before we finally make it here together but it's worth the wait. It's love at first sight and we are already planning a longer return visit.
This is what you're signing up for if you choose to come to Collioure. Not bad eh? Like Nice but on a much-smaller small scale, the town sits right on the beach so you get the best of both worlds - a coastal break but with all the benefits of a bustling town: great restaurants and bars, museums and galleries, and any number of buildings of historical and architectural interest.
Where to stay in Collioure:
A luxury stay with a superb view of the Bay of Collioure and a lovely outdoor pool overlooking the sea.
Le Relais des Trois Mas, 12 Rte de Port-Vendres, 66190 Collioure
Affordable & charming hotel in a great central location:
Le Mas des Citronniers, 22 Rue de la République, 66190 Collioure
The buildings of the old town sit right on the water including the monumental 800 year old chateau and the church of Notre Dame des Anges with its iconic pink domed bell-tower. You can walk right out along the pier on a narrow walkway to the lighthouse below, replete with 'love locks' to signify your devotion to your other half.
The warren of tiny streets that make up the old town are cobbled, colourful, vibrant and very appealing. Even with lots of tourists milling around, it never loses its character. There are loads of galleries and craft shops to wander in and out of. and you should dedicate time to researching the best ice-cream vendors on Boulevard Camille Pelletan. Spoiler alert: there are many. I can never resist creamy pistachio and Amarena cherry, best enjoyed on the seafront as the sun drops low behind the buildings of the old town.
Collioure is an easy place to be present: to spend hours sitting at the coast and watching the world go by. There's a perfect viewing point just slightly out of town towards Port Vendres and past the high-end Relais des Trois Mas Hotel. You'll look down on the old town from a height with a terrific view of the port, the castle and the boats in the bay.
Collioure is at its best at sunrise. An early-morning run reveals the special quality of the light, as pale blue gives way to pink before the sun bursts through.
Collioure is a popular place for boating enthusiasts and the port is heaving with boats at all times. There's something cinematic about the scene, as they gracefully bob in the water or sail across the bay.
Chapelle Saint-Vincent
Start from the old town and follow Boulevard du Boramar, keeping left on the promontory behind the church of Notre Dame des Anges. Soon you will come to the small but very pretty 17th century chapel of Saint Vincent at the top of a series of steps. According to legend, Saint Vincent was martyred on this site in 303 and the chapel was built to house his relics. Pop around to the left side of the chapel and you'll encounter a large wooden cross with the figure of Jesus suspended from it, facing the sea. It's a stark and eerie sight, especially in the late evening when only the silhouette is visible.
Things to do in Collioure
If you're feeling active, there are plenty of options to keep you busy. Let's start on the gentler side of things. It's worth noting that we land in Collioure during a heatwave. Movement of any sort is challenging in the full heat of the day, yet somehow we end up hiking to the St Elmo Fort which sits high on the hills above the town. If a hike is not on your itinerary then fear not - that's where Le Petit Train Touristique comes in.
Le Petit Train is one of those ridiculous looking mini tourist trains that we normally scoff at in derision but after our hiking in 38 degree experience, we began to see its merits. The train takes visitors for a 45 minute ride starting in Collioure and then heads for the hills, through the surrounding vineyards and up to the Fort with guided commentary to tell you what to look out for. The views on the way up are pretty spectacular with a sea of red roofs surrounding the bay. It comes back to Collioure through Pont Vendres, the next town on the coast. It departs on the hour from 10am to 7pm and costs €8 per adult.
Just bear in mind though that if you're interested in more than a fleeting glimpse of the Fort, you might want to leave the train here and walk back down after having a look around or maybe going inside. There is, quite literally, a two minute stop at the top for photos.
Le Moulin and Fort St Elme
Visit the fort for some of the most breathtaking views of the bay and of the old town from the terrace. Just to reiterate, I definitely would NOT recommend walking up to the Fort in the midday sun as the path is mostly exposed to the elements. The walk starts at the side of the Musée d'Art Moderne and according to the signposts, it takes thirty minutes to get to the top. You probably could do it in thirty minutes if you went at top speed but it takes us at least forty five. I'm a fast walker and consider myself to be pretty fit but it was a tough climb. The second image below might give you some idea of what to expect. It looks deceptively far away at some points.
Just past the museum and following the path through the trees is the picturesque windmill Le Moulin de Collioure. The mill dates from the 14th century but ceased use for a time in the 19th century and fell into disrepair. A restoration project was undertaken and completed in 2001. It is now in full working order and used for the crushing of olives and the production of Collioure oil.
From this point the walk starts to get tough. There are no more trees to shade you once you go past the windmill so make sure to wear a hat. The countryside is really lovely here and you will be walking through working vineyards on either side with wonderful views of Collioure peeking through the trees as you ascend.
Eventually you'll reach the fort. Tickets are €7 per adult and €3 for a child. Happily bottles of water are for sale in the shop at reception for a mere €1. Honestly I would've paid €50 at that point as I was so thirsty and hot. If you're interested in history, particularly military history, then this is a must-visit. The initial construction phase on the fort began in 1544 under the reign of Charles V to strengthen the position of Collioure against the French (at this time Collioure was part of northern Catalonia).
Inside you'll find rooms filled with armour, helmets and two 16th century canons and there are a number dedicated to temporary exhibitions. A staircase leads to a terrace with panoramic views of Collioure, Port Vendres and the mountains and plains of the surrounding countryside. The sea is so blue it's almost hard to differentiate between where the horizon line begins.
One of the coolest things we notice up here is the graffiti on the tiles by soldiers and military officers who lived on-site at the Fort. The writing below was signed 1832 and so elegant. There are hundreds of similar etchings into the stone and even drawings. Fascinating.
It's well worth a visit and even if history isn't your thing, you won't get a better view of Collioure.
Musée d'Art Moderne Villa Pams, Route de Port-Vendres
Considering that both Matisse and Derain lived here in 1905, and painted many scenes of Collioure I'm a little surprised that there isn't a single painting or drawing by either of them in the gallery though their names are mentioned on the website. They brought with them their innovative and exciting Fauvist style which seemed to have had a massive influence on artists living and working here. Really it's the work of their contemporaries and admirers that are on view in this museum.
Described as a museum of modern and contemporary art there is just one room dedicated to each. You won't need to give over more than a half hour to see everything. The building itself is gorgeous with an arched walkway and it's surrounded by trees and plants.
The collection is small and not massively exciting but there are some particularly nice works by Henri Martin and by Jean Peské. In fact, much of the museum's collection can be attributed to Peské who was instrumental in getting his artist friends to donate paintings, drawings and lithographs to the town and establishing the base of the collection. 190 donations were received which were then displayed in a room in the town council. After his death in 1960 the works were no longer on display and this was the case for the next twenty years. I found this particularly appalling. Thankfully upon the establishment of the Museum's Friends Association, the town council was encouraged to place the works on public display again. They purchased the villa which now houses the collection to this day. It's a nice gentle way to while away a half hour or so but don't expect to have your mind blown. The entrance fee is just €3.
Beaches in Collioure
There are any number of beaches along this coastline, and as you can see some are literally right at the edge of town, some sandy and others rocky. Despite this, the water is spotless and crystal clear. They can be quite busy during the day but if you start to walk out of town towards Port Vendres, there are many little coves down steps to your left that are quieter for swimming, or sitting and reading.
We spend much of our last evening here, sitting on some rocks, sipping bubbly and watching a group of kids fishing and diving for crabs as the sun went down.
Have pizza on the beach as the sun sets
This is our last supper in Collioure as we want to spend every last second by the sea. I will never tire of that view. Taking our cue from the locals, we order a takeaway wood-fired pizza from Al Cantou and enjoy it on the beach with a bottle of wine. It's perfectly acceptable here to have a beach picnic with wine and beer, as long as you clean up after yourself. The pizza is excellent which explains the queues and the ticketing system. We are given a receipt and a time to come back to collect it. Expect about a 30 minute wait. It will be worth it.
After our nightly ice-cream we head for home, sad to leave the next day but knowing we will definitely come back.
Where to eat to Collioure
La Bodeguita, 18 Rue Vauban
Our best meal in Collioure is courtesy of La Bodeguita, located on the lovely Rue Vauban, one of the quieter streets in the old town. A warm welcome from the manager sets the scene for a great meal. We are shown to a table on the terrace which was great for people-watching. As you can see below, the presentation of the food is very impressive. A Burrata is served with a pipette filled with pesto to inject into into the cheese as you wish. Very cool and a quirky touch. The dish is delicious with excellent ingredients. The scallops tartare is terrific and so zingy-fresh, served with a passionfruit purée.
For mains the salmon is poached in a Wasabi cream and every bit as good as it sounds, perfectly cooked and flakey with a subtle kick of spice. A Tuna Tartare with sesame crust was exceptional. Washed down with two glasses of Rosé and a coffee, our bill comes to €70. Pretty good value for what we had.
We also liked:
l'Arbre du Voyageur, Place Jean Jaures
Great for a healthy lunch. A rare find in regional France with options such as Buddha Bowls, chia puddings and hummus and avocado tartines. We also have fresh orange juice and very good coffee served in cool contemporary pottery. Thumbs up from us.
Can Pla, 7 bis Rue Voltaire
Just around the corner from l'Arbre du Voyageur is Can Pla. Specialising in Catalan dishes and tapas, this is the place to come for seafood. Prawns are huge and fresh, as if they've just been pulled from the sea. Vegetarians beware - you will most likely starve as there are very few, if any options.
I opt for tuna, served very rare (as it was supposed to be) but perhaps a little too raw for me. The sea bass arrives at the table complete with head. Off-putting for me but appararently it was delicious. The restaurant came highly recommended from the lady who owned our apartment and she wasn't wrong. These two restaurants are not in the old town but just off the seafront on the other side so they attract less tourists and more locals.
La Cave à Féfé, 12 Rue de la Démocratie
La Cave à Féfé is a cool little wine bar situated across the road from Plage du Faubourg. Images below capture your view from the outside tables. They have a huge number of wines by the glass but also sell bottles to go. You can also enjoy a bottle at a table for a small corkage fee. The man and woman who run the place are extremely friendly and chatty. We only have one glass here but we'd like to have lingered for longer, taking their recommendations and trying different wines. Next time for sure.
Crêperie Bretonne, 10 Avenue Camille Pelletan
The best place for a traditional galette in Collioure. You can sit in at the terrace across the road or order to take away (after 3pm). We opt for a takeaway option with a simple Emmental and ham filling. So good and the galette is just the right side of crispy, salty and buttery. The lady who serves us is so nice, giving us glasses of water while we waited as it's so hot outside.
Getting there
As with Leucate, the closest airport is Perpignan and you can fly direct from Dublin with Aer Lingus though flights can be pricey during summer months. Montpellier (Aer Lingus- 190 kms) could also be an option if you've hired a car. And for an extended break, Montpellier is a fantastic city. I wrote about it after our last trip which you can read here.
Traveling with a group? Welcome Pickups offer excellent value for money and a reliable airport transfer service. Book your transfer here
If you're planning on travelling a little further afield, France's main cities are very well connected by rail, with reasonably priced fares too. Omio is my go-to site of choice for train bookings: it's user-friendly with cheaper fares than other sites. Book here.
Bonnes vacances,
Karyn xx