Vence: A romantic town in Provence. Things to see & do

Disclosure: some of the links on this site are affiliate links with companies I have chosen to partner with. If you make a purchase through these, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for your support!

Vence stole our hearts instantly. The old town is utterly enchanting with narrow winding streets, bustling squares, terracotta-coloured buildings and spectacular views across the countryside. Often overlooked in favour of its more touristy sister St Paul de Vence, it has a chilled-out vibe, wonderfully friendly people and an arts scene to blow your mind. The old town is surrounded by its original fortifications (dating from 12th – 18th century) and is still entered through the original gates in the ramparts.

It’s a town that oozes romance and charm with tiny bustling squares filled with couples holding hands over glasses of bubbles. Just a short distance from Nice, it’s the perfect place to go for a romantic weekend away, home to La Maison du Frêne: the most beautiful guesthouse we have ever stayed in. Located on Place du Frêne in the heart of the old town, the house has just four rooms, all suites, each one with a unique decor. Art lovers will be bowled over by the extraordinary collection of paintings, sculpture, and fascinating objets d’art.

The suites are opulent, luxurious and ridiculously comfortable, filled with art books and artworks. Ours had a huge bed, a dressing area and huge windows with magnificent views of the surrounding countryside. Hospitality here is second-to-none - Guy, Thierry and Antoine are fabulous hosts with an incredible eye for detail. Breakfast each morning was a highlight, with the smell of freshly baked bread and croissants wafting up the stairs. Fabulous people and my favourite place to stay. Ever.

La Maison du Frêne, 1 Pl. du Frêne, 06140 Vence

---

Vence, Provence: Things to see and do

Where to eat in Vence

Foodies are spoiled for choice in Vence. There are so many excellent restaurants located within the old town walls. We loved:

• Le Pigeonnier on Place du Peyra - classic French bistro in the heart of town

• La Onda, a vibey tapas restaurant run by Maribel, a vivacious Spanish / French host. Trust her recommendations on wine and food - she was spot-on.

• Les Agapes - for a gastronomic feast. High-end without any pretensions. Expect excellent food and a warm welcome. A class act.

• Le Clémenceau - for casual dining and great pizzas. It's one of the few bars that open later than others and is a good spot for a cheap apéritif. Cool staff too.
  

  
  

---

Vence, Provence: Things to see and do

Arts and culture

Vence is a town of artists and sculptors, with many living and working in the old town centre, and there are many small commercial galleries to explore.

It has a history of attracting painters and was home to Chagall, Matisse, Soutine and Dufy, to name but a few, in the early to mid 20th century. A visit to Vence is not complete without a visit to Matisse’s final masterpiece: his chapel of the rosary La Chapelle de Rosaire, a short walk outside of town. This was the pinnacle of his career: he designed every aspect of the building including its architecture, the stained glass windows, ceramics, paintings, and even the priests’ vestments. It’s a profoundly special place and a must-see for Matisse fans.

Another huge draw is the Maeght Foundation: a world-famous art foundation located 4kms away near St Paul de Vence but accessible by the local bus. You can also go on foot, taking a scenic route through the woods.

It was founded in the 1960s by Marguerite and Aimé Maeght to showcase modern and contemporary art in all its forms.

The first thing you see upon entering is the sculpture garden with monumental works by the likes of Calder, Chillida and Hepworth. You'll also notice a mosaic on the bookshop wall by Marc Chagall. The St Bernard chapel is worth a look for its gorgeous stained-glass windows by Raoul Ubac and George Braque.

The building itself is undoubtedly modern but the warm terracotta colours and traditional materials ensure it doesn't seem at odds with the natural environment. Instead everything seems to flow together perfectly with galleries and courtyards at varying heights and levels, and there are access points to the outdoor spaces everywhere. The Miró labyrinth is a highlight and a zen-like space with its turquoise pools, sculpture trail and a backdrop of mountains and trees. The Giacometti courtyard is also a must-see, overhung by the most dramatic architectural feature, the distinctive white catchment roof. The views of the surrounding landscape are pretty spectacular from the upper levels.

You will notice an abundance of fountains in Vence and there is a special reason for that. The water from the La Foux river and spring, a source close to the town, brings crystal-clear mineral water which is available to the townspeople at a number of drinking points including the beautiful 19th century fountain at Place Peyra. In the evenings, you will often find crowds queuing up with their water bottles to take some away. For such a small town, Vence has a lot going for it. It is filled with charm, the people are warm and wonderful, and to me it’s one of the most romantic spots we’ve ever been. I'm quite taken with it, as you can probably tell.

---

Getting there:

Vence is approximately 23 kms from Nice.  Fly direct to Nice from Dublin with Aer Lingus  or Ryanair

Nice airport to Vence by public transport

Walk or take tram B from Terminal 1 to Grand Arénas. Take bus number 9 - direction Halte Routière de L'Ara. Journey takes approx 35 minutes at off-peak times / an hour at peak times.

Nice airport to Vence by car

We hired a car through Discover Cars, one of the best value sites which compares prices across 700 suppliers.

Nice airport to Vence by airport transfer

Traveling with a group of friends? Welcome Pickups offer excellent value for money and a reliable airport transfer service. Book your transfer here

Bon voyage,

Karyn xx