Madrid: a slow travel guide through Europe's coolest capital
- Karyn Farrell
- 20 minutes ago
- 15 min read
Madrid is a capital city with a neighbourhood vibe. While it has all the requisite elements of a European metropolis: world-class museums, grand boulevards, countless great restaurants and bars, and a vibrant music scene, it never feels overwhelming or exhausting, even in peak summer season. While Sol-Gran Vía is Madrid’s most touristy and busy area, we gravitate towards its surrounding neighbourhoods. We hang out in local bars, surrounded by Spanish speakers, and are pleased when they don't switch to English when we order. Away from the prime tourist hubs, people are warm and friendly, and while prices have inflated a little since our last visit, there is excellent value for money to be had, if you know where to look.
There's an energy and an effortless sense of cool to this city, and we fall in love with it all over again. Architecturally it's a place of weird and wonderful juxtapositions - brownstone buildings and Art Deco skyscrapers create a New York feel, while extravagantly ornate Belle Époque palaces stand alongside edgy contemporary constructions. Yet somehow it all works.
While the city is sprawling and vast in scale, its many neighbourhoods are a pleasure to explore, each with their own distinct characteristics and bustling atmosphere.
There's vibey Lavapiés, culturally diverse and colourful. Here we drink criminally cheap wine in dive bars and catch a jazz gig in an iconic local institution Café El Despertar. Close by is the arthouse Ciné Doré with its striking Modernista Art Nouveau façade.
Chueca is a lively spot, hub of the city's LGBTQ+ community while La Latina is the place to go for a tapas bar crawl. Malasaña has a youthful energic vibe, lined with vintage clothing shops and cool bars.
We're staying in Barrio de las Letras, the old literary quarter of the city where many of the giants of the Golden Age of Spanish literature lived and worked. Wedged between Lavapiés and Paseo del Arte, we're within walking distance of Madrid's golden triangle of museums: the Prado, Reina Sofia and Thyssen-Bornemisza.
With a hotel overlooking Plaza Santa Ana, we're also minutes from some of the best bars in the city, including Hemingway's favourite Cevecería Alemana, and the beautifully tiled Viva Madrid. It's also a short Metro trip to Retiro, home to leafy Retiro Park.
So my best advice if you only have a few days? Don't try to see it all in one trip. Stay locally, eat and drink in your own neighbourhood, take some time-out in one of the city's many green spaces, and visit at least one of its museums. And if you have to pick one, make it the Thyssen-Bornemisza. More on that below...
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Contents:
Where to stay in Madrid:
Room Mate Alicia: A flawless boutique hotel in a superb location
After a stressful drive from Segovia and navigating the streets of Madrid at rush hour, our nerves are somewhat jangling as we stand at reception. But within minutes of checking in, all is right with the world again. Room Mate Alicia exceeds all our expectations and ticks every box. Let's start with the location, right on the corner of Plaza Santa Ana, one of the city's coolest and most laid-back squares with numerous great bars and restaurants on our doorstep. It's also less than a ten' minute walk to the three major museums.
We'd booked a Junior Suite: a large room complete with seating area, a luxurious bath and a separate shower, and floor-to ceiling windows overlooking the square. It's surprisingly good value for money, and worth the extra for an upgrade. The huge comfortable bed is nothing short of dreamy, and sleep comes easily every night.
The attention to detail really sets this place apart with monogrammed towels and bathrobes, an old-fashioned style speaker with a Blutooth connection, and some elevated room snacks including olive oil and parmesan crackers, and artisan chocolate. I enjoyed those quiet moments at the start of every day, lying in bed and curtains thrown wide; sipping coffee and nibbling on shortbread, watching the city come to life.
I also have to note the very friendly staff who made our stay an absolute pleasure. It felt like a stroke of luck to have a place like this to hide out in the searing temperatures of a heatwave. We will 100% stay here when we next come back to Madrid. A gem of a hotel in every way.
Room Mate Alicia, C. del Prado, 2, Centro, 28014 Madrid
What to do in Madrid: A Travel Guide
Art in Madrid: the Golden Triangle
We start each day with a trip to an art gallery. With three of the world’s best museums within walking distance of each other, it's a privilege to dedicate hours to the slow appreciation of their outstanding collections. The tree-lined Paseo del Prado is Madrid's cultural hub, home to the Museo del Prado, Reina Sofía and my favourite, the Thyssen-Bornemisza.
Navigating the collections of the Museo del Prado can be an overwhelming experience. Home to world-famous works by artists such as Rembrandt, Rubens, Mantegna and El Greco, the collections are vast, covering several wings and floors. It's hard to know where to start, and to avoid gallery burnout. My best advice? Compile a personal highlights list and make a beeline for those first.
Some of the big hitters include Bosch's Garden of Earthly Delights, Fra Angelico's exquisite Annunciation and Caravaggio's terrifying David with the Head of Goliath. Arguably the most famous work in its collection is Velázaquez 's extraordinary masterpiece, Las Meninas. No photos are allowed which creates an infinitely more pleasant gallery experience.
Museo Nacional del Prado, Retiro, 28014 Madrid
On our second morning we head to the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, Spain's national museum of 20th-century art. A greatest hits of Spanish modern art awaits including works by Juan Gris, Miró, and more than 300 pieces by Salvador Dalí, including my favourite painting of his sister at an open window, Figura en una Finestra. And of course, there's the most famous one of all, Picasso's iconic Guernica.
Photographs are permitted in this museum, and we watch in part-bemusement / part-disgust as a grown man takes countless selfies in front of the museum’s most famous painting. Guernica, of course, is Picasso’s iconic depiction of the carnage of war and the obliteration of a small Basque town during the Spanish Civil War. But the subject matter does not interest this man and he doesn’t stop there. He begins to coordinate posed photo shoots with other family members, insisting they smile in front of this tableau. Without an ounce of embarrassment or self-consciousness.
Just as an aside... Many years ago we had the pleasure of visiting this beautiful little market town, a worthy daytrip from Bilbao. Gernika, as it's spelled in Basque country, has a leafy park with sculptures by Eduardo Chillida and Henry Moore, and there are plants and flowers dotted everywhere. It's also home to the wonderful Museo de la Paz (Museum of Peace) which documents its history and the impact of the Spanish Civil War. In particular, it focuses on the bombing raid which took place in April 1937, effectively razing this small town to the ground and killing over 1000 people. The permanent exhibition is really worth a view: the audiovisual room is an eerie experience but profoundly affecting. Picasso's Guernica has been replicated as a mural in the town as a reminder to all of the horror inflicted upon them.
The Sabatini building grants access to a tranquil leafy garden at the heart of the museum, with sculptures by Alexander Calder and Joan Miró. At the time of our visit, the Rooftop Terraces and galleries were closed for renovation (July 2026)
Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, C. de Sta. Isabel, 52, Centro, 28012 Madrid
It seems we left the best until last... On our final day in Madrid we head to the Thyssen-Bornemisza. It quickly becomes apparent that this is one of the great museums of the world, yet it doesn’t attract the same level of interest from tourists as the other two. Boasting a collection of almost 1000 paintings from the 13th to the 20th century, there are almost too many highlights to mention, but here's a taster: Dürer, Caravaggio, Rembrandt, Monet, Degas, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Kirchner, Mondrian, and some stunning works by Georgia O'Keeffe.
Lovers of modern art will be in their element with all the giants of 19th and 20th century art on show. Cézanne's Seated Man stops me in my tracks, a poignantly beautiful of portrait of the artist's gardener. Jumping to the 21st century, there are a few outstanding portraits by Lucian Freud showcasing the artist at the top of his game, and it's a treat to stumble upon an Alex Katz outside of the States.
A Mark Rothko is given a room to itself, a velvet couch placed before it, allowing for a moment of silent contemplation. It’s one of his best and provokes an immediate emotional response. There’s something about his art that affects us on a deeper level. No-one speaks in this room. Before it a man sits reverently, completely absorbed.
A personal highlight is Hotel Room by American artist Edward Hopper, one of my all-time favourites, another rare treat to see outside of the US. A female figure sits on a bed reading a letter. She’s discarded her hat, outerwear and shoes, and appears absorbed in thought. There's such quiet beauty to this painting; such gravitas, and I sit absorbed for the longest time.
No-one captures the loneliness of modern life in a faceless city as well as Hopper, producing iconic works of such beauty and sadness while leaving us to ponder the back story.
Tip: If you plan on visiting all three museums, consider purchasing the Paseo del Arte (The Art Pass) Valid for one year, it allows one visit to the permanent collection of each of the three museums at a much-reduced rate - €38 (at time of publication).
Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum, Paseo del Prado, 8, Centro, 28014 Madrid
Retiro Park: A UNESCO World Heritage Site
No visit to Madrid is complete without a stroll through the gorgeous Retiro Park. It's a sprawling estate of over 125 hectares, with more than 15,000 trees, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021. While on our last visit, we hired boats and rowed aimlessly around the lake (it's harder than it looks, by the way...), this time around I took shelter from the 40+ degree heat beneath its canopies of trees.
In late July, the colours looked strangely autumnal along its epic tree-lined avenues. The heat of the afternoon is searing but it feels like a cooler micro-climate beneath the trees. I head for El Angel Caído, the Fallen Angel, allegedly the only sculpture in the world dedicated to the devil.
Sadly the ornate 19th century Palacio de Cristal was temporarily closed as of July 2026.
Retiro Park, Retiro, 28009 Madrid
Eating and Drinking in Madrid
Special treat dining in Madrid
Madrid is an exciting city for food lovers, with options to suit every taste and budget. Thankfully we make exceedingly good choices for our first two meals: Taberna Laredo and the vibey Angelita. If they come recommended by the staff from Uno Mas, one of Dublin's best restaurants, then that's all I need to know. And as it turns out, those recommendations were spot on.
Taberna Laredo offers a menu of innovative twists on Spanish cuisine with an Asian influence. Choose between sitting in the casual wine bar downstairs or the more formal restaurant upstairs. We opt for the latter and enjoy one of the foodie highlights of our trip. While the service is elevated and professional, it's far from a stuffy experience. Our waiter is smiley and warm, and clearly loves his job.
We start with two excellent glasses of Cava Rosado, a snip at just €5 a glass, and munch on some amuse-bouche. The croquetas are a good indicator of what’s to come.
Our appetites have been somewhat reduced by the oppressive heat. Conscious of over-ordering, we ask his advice. Telling us that portions are big, he recommends ordering four at a max. But he also tells us that they can offer some of the dishes as half-portions – not something advertised on the menu - a welcome and a classy move. We order prawn tempura, scallops, a delightfully oozy tortilla with artichoke, and the tartare de tomate. As it turns out, even the half portions are substantial, and we leave feeling satisfied but not stuffed to the gills.
Considering the quality of the food and service, our bill was very reasonable. A top-notch place.
Note: let waiters choose your wine. We gave him our preferences and a price limit and he produced a winner for €30. €5 under our budget.
Taberna Laredo, Calle del Dr. Castelo, 30, Retiro, 28009 Madrid
Angelita may just be the foodie highlight of our entire trip but it was almost not to be. I mess up and we arrive an hour later than our booking was for, so they’ve given our table away. It’s a hugely popular and busy place, but the host is very understanding and accommodating, and finds us a seat at the bar. It turns out to be a happy accident as we watch the comings and goings in the bar and chat to the staff.
Angelita is famous for its cocktails so it’s only right that we put them to the test. I opt for their take on a Negroni, the Negroni raices, with ingredients including Vermouth and beetroot bitter, of all things. Somehow it works. M order La Colmena - a stunningly delicious blend of Hibiki whisky, oxidised honey wine and pollen, served with aplomb. A cocktail guru dressed in Japanese robes appears with our drinks, and gives us the lowdown on ingredients and approach. It's just the right side of pretentious and the cocktails really are a work of art.
While the main menu is quite meat-heavy, they have multiple specials on offer each evening and we opt for three, each one more outstanding than the next. We start with a dish of tomatoes served only with olive oil and sea salt. They may look like tomatoes but not like any I've ever known. I tell him they’re the best I’ve ever tasted and he smiles knowingly. The olive oil is peppery and punchy and extraordinarily good, and they don't scrimp on it, handing us the bottle and telling us to help ourselves. We oblige wholeheartedly.
Next up are deep-fried courgette flowers, served with delicate drops of basil and stracciatella. We finish with the bonito a melt-in-your-mouth, perfectly cooked tuna.
Cheese boards come in selections of three, six or nine. We go for six. M is all in for the pungent and blue options while I play it safe, sticking with Manchego and other hard cheese, accompanied by quince. We both agree that as cheesboards go, this one is king. We order wines by the glass and again we let the waiter choose. He opts for one from Galicia and it’s perfect.
Though it's a pricier than average restaurant for Madrid, it's absolutely worth it for the standard of food, the exceptional service, and the buzzy atmosphere.
Angelita, C. de la Reina, 4, Centro, 28004 Madrid
Casual dining and cool bars
We're surprised on a daily basis that there is still remarkable value for money to be had in Madrid.
On our last night we stumble upon Viva Madrid, a gem of a bar just off Plaza Santa Ana. In operation since 1856, it's one of the oldest bars in Madrid, boasting a striking ornate blue and yellow tiled façade. Inside, it's cosy and atmospheric, with a zinc bar, tiled paneling and a wooden ceiling.
This is everything I want in bar. Staff are friendly and smiley and don’t switch to English immediately, which I appreciate. We order empanadas, one with meat and one with mozzarella, deep-friend aubergine with salmorejo, and an excellent twist on patatas bravas with a smoky salsa, and a lemon and dill dip in place of aioli. We sip on glasses of chilled blush rosado (me) and a robust Rioja for M.
We sit at the tiled counter and wish there were more bars like this in Dublin. The music is great – a mix of Britpop and Trip-Hop and there’s no-one bellowing or screeching at the top of the voices – just the mellow buzz of conversation. And our bill - four tapas dishes and four glasses of wine? A mere €35...
Viva Madrid, C. de Manuel Fernández y González, nº 7, Centro, 28014 Madrid
Cerveceria Alemana on Plaza Santa Ana is another popular neighbourhood spot. Founded in 1904 by German Industrialists (hence the name), it's an iconic establishment, known to have been frequented by the likes of Ernest Hemmingway. The terrace popular with tourists but we opt to sit inside. The traditional wood paneled décor has remained virtually unchanged since its foundation, and servers sport white shirts and black ties. As you might expect, the beer menu is vast, and though we didn't dine there, the food looked and smelled incredible.
Cerveceria Alemana, Pl. de Sta. Ana, 6, Centro, 28012 Madrid
We also have a soft spot for Cerveceria Santa Ana, another traditional wood-paneled bar on Plaza Santa Ana. Popping in for breakfast one morning, we take our seats at the counter and order two bocadillos con tortilla and coffee. Already locals are sipping beer. It's pushing 40 degrees outside and as tempting as it looks, we hold off. For a few hours at least.
We comment on how the experience changes when you sit inside and engage with the staff, instead of sitting outside on the terrace with other tourists. We walk in, smile, say Buenas and take our seats at the bar. Instantly a boundary is removed. We order in Spanish, and even though it's rusty, he smiles at us and says it's good that we're practicing. We get a big friendly wave when we leave.
It's also a good spot for a nightcap. Later that evening we pop in for one last glass of wine. The older gentleman behind the bar is giving grumpy vibes and regards us warily at first, but this changes when we smile and say a few words in Spanish. He pours us two very large glasses of Rioja.
Each time, we notice the bizarrely wonderful music, no matter the time of day. It's a constant playlist of 80s rock, with a bit of cheese thrown in for good measure. It's Sweet Child of Mine over breakfast and Easy Lover over early-evening snacks. At one point the YMCA comes on. The barman is grooving a little behind the bar as he pours our drinks. “Esta una buena canción” I say, and he looks at me in surprise, then bursts out laughing. It occurs to me that it's small moments like these that are the essence of breaking in a city like Madrid.
Cerveceria Santa Ana, Pl. de Sta. Ana, 10, Centro, 28012 Madrid
Just a few doors down from Taberna Laredo, Coalla Wine Bar is a perfect pitstop for a pre-dinner drink. It also serves as a gourmet shop with lots of delicious and slightly pungent cheeses on display.
Coalla Retiro, Calle del Dr. Castelo, 34, Retiro, 28009 Madrid
Live music: it's time for some jazz
We round off our three days in Madrid with some live jazz at Café Despertar. Located in the Lavapiés neighbourhood, this friendly, family-run bar has been around since the early 80s. It’s very cool, exactly how you want a jazz bar to look, with low lights, marble tables and a belle époque atmosphere.
The bar is free to enter but gigs are ticketed, with a teeny, little venue at the back and a miniature stage. It’s been a particularly hot day, and we’re shown to our seats, right at the front of the stage. So close I am practically on the stage, my feet resting on it. The temperature is rising and I'm regretting my choice of red wine.
The sextet of musicians approach, see the stage and say “are we all going to fit up there?” And it’s a fair question. But somehow, they do it – a trumpet and two sax players, a guitarist, drummer and even a double-bass. It’s a tight squeeze but they make it work.
It’s an exhilarating experience to be so close to the action and the performance. I watch the fingers of the brass section move deftly on the buttons of their instruments. The trumpet and sax players loom above me, so close I can see the sweat on their brows and upper lips.
It lifts us out of the experience of being tourists. We’re surrounded by Madrileños, reminding us of evenings spent in Arthur’s in Dublin, though in a far more intimate space. It’s a memorable way to finish a trip to Madrid.
Café Despertar, C. de la Torrecilla del Leal, 18, Centro, 28012 Madrid
Getting there:
We flew direct from Dublin to Adolfo Suárez Madrid–Barajas Airport, the second-largest airport in Europe behind Charles de Gaulle in Paris. There are four terminals with quite a distance to travel between T1,2,3 and Terminal 4 - a free shuttle train is provided with frequent departures.
Madrid Airport to City Centre by Bus
Take Line 203 from Madrid Airport to Atocha Train Station (1.5km from the city centre). Tickets are €5 at time of publication.
Madrid Airport to City Centre by Train
Option of C1 and C10, RENFE commuter trains. Trains depart from the underground level of T4, and reach Atocha Station (1.5km from the city centre) a journey time of approximately half an hour. A one-way ticket from Aeropuerto 4 to four zones of the city of Madrid costs €2.60 or €5.20 return at time of publication.
Madrid Airport to City Centre by Metro
Pink Metro Line 8. Change at Nuevos Ministerios Station for Blue Metro Line 10.
Light Blue Line 1 to Valdecarros - download your Metro Map here
Public transport is ridiculously cheap in Madrid. We purchased a Multicard at a machine at the airport for €2.50 and topped it up with a 10-trip combined ticket covering the entire Metro network for a mere €9.10 (at time of publication)
A single fare is €1.50 - €2 and the airport supplement is an additional €3
Madrid Airport to City Centre by Taxi
A taxi ride from the city centre to the airport is approximately €35, depending on time of day and traffic.
Madrid Airport with Welcome Pick-ups Airport Transfer
If you’re traveling with a group, an alternative option is Welcome Pickups I’ve used them on multiple trips, and they offer excellent value for money and a reliable airport transfer service. Book your transfer here
And that concludes this mini Madrid travel guide. Three days is nowhere near enough and we plan to return soon for a longer visit. We visited Madrid at the end of a ten-day trip to Spain, starting with four four nights in Toledo and three nights in Segovia, both of which are a short train trip from the capital. You can read more about beautiful Toledo in my earlier feature here.
Buen viaje,
Karyn xx
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