Best of Bristol: a three day travel guide
- Karyn Farrell
- Jan 15
- 18 min read
It's minus 2 degrees as we land at Bristol Airport. A red-eye flight offers glimpses of a glorious sunrise from the air, casting a golden glow on frozen white fields as we descend. We've arrived in the depths of a particularly cold spell. At 9am on a Sunday in January, all is quiet and still. It's one of those perfect winter mornings with a crisp blue sky, the city bathed in a pale diffused light. I'm immediately struck by the architecture: the turrets and spires and remnants of an ancient time. Not at all what I was expecting.
I'd pictured something more urban and modern when I thought of Bristol: city of Portishead, Massive Attack and Tricky. Of Banksy, the enfant-terrible of the city's street art scene. The Bristol of TV shows like Skins or Aimee-Lou Woods recent Film Club. Maybe a little bit rough around the edges. What I wasn't expecting was centuries old pubs and narrow cobbled streets, like a scene from A Christmas Carol.
The truth is, it's both of those things: a perfect blend of old and new. It's colourful, complex and charismatic: a city of many layers and stories. A place to drink in 300 year old bars, and order blends with unpronounceable names from trendy coffee houses. To enjoy jazz from a bygone era on a Sunday afternoon, and Sri Lankan food in the evening. There's a sense of history but also a willingness to move with the times. There's something here for everyone. So what are you waiting for?
Table of Contents:
Brunch | Old Town | Coffee | Brewpub | Jazz | Sri Lankan dinner at Nadu | Drinks
Clifton Village & Suspension Bridge | Colourful houses of Clifton Village | Drinks | Tapas at Gambas
Harbourside and SS Great Britain | Great fish and chips | Bristol Museum & Art Gallery | Cocktails | Italian cuisine at Ragu | Drinks
Where to stay in Bristol - a superb boutique hotel that ticked all the boxes
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Is Bristol worth visiting?
Bristol is having a moment. Buzzy, vibrant and bursting with youthful energy, it has an infectious appeal and a cheeky personality. With an old town like something from a Dickens novel, and a vibrant harbour area with hipster cafés and fine dining in reimagined shipping containers, it ticks a lot of boxes for a city break.
There's loads to see and do, and its residents are warm and friendly with a cracking sense of humour. It's compact enough to explore most of the must-see sights on foot and it's worth taking the time to explore the neighbourhoods on the outskirts, each with its own distinct character. The architecture is gorgeous, particularly around College Green and the historic centre, and the contemporary food scene is second-to-none. Bonus points given for free entry to its museums and galleries.
It's also worth noting that there are some really excellent hotels in this city. In contrast to London, there is great value to be had, especially if you're travelling off-peak or midweek. Our boutique hotel was superb. More on that below.
All main points of interest, restaurants and bars featured in this article are pinned on the map above for your convenience
Bristol Travel Guide: What to do and see - a three-day round-up
Cocktails in a Prohibition-style speakeasy. Exquisite meals in repurposed shipping containers. Independent book and record shops. Public art. Panoramic suspension bridge views. Boarding a 19th century passenger ship. A taste of village life. Dive bars. Green spaces. Excellent coffee. And that's just some of the highlights.
Day 1: Bristol's old town
On a recommendation we head to Flour House for brunch, a hipster café with colourful artwork and a coffee menu spelled out on scrabble tiles. It's freezing outside and the windows are steamed up. Inside all tables are occupied, but we bag the last two high stools with a view of Park Row.
Staff are friendly and we're greeted with warm smiles. The menu is small but well-considered, a step beyond standard brunch fare. We opt for scrambled eggs with whipped feta and crispy onions, and a sautéed mushroom dish with spinach and poached eggs. Both are excellent with great coffee too. A good indication of what's to come over the new few days.
Flour House, 10, Park Row, Bristol, United Kingdom BS1 5LJ
Head for a post-brunch walk to Brandon Hill on the west side of the city. Located just off Park St, the oldest park in Bristol is set on a height offering terrific views over the city and harbourside area. But of course there's often a price to pay for scenic views and as we're soon to discover, steep hills are a part of everyday life in a Medieval city. Just think of the powerful calves you're cultivating as you climb yet another set of steps.
At the top stands the 19th century Cabot Tower. The 105 ft red sandstone structure was built to commemorate John Cabot's famous voyage from Bristol to North America four hundred years prior. If you're feeling energetic (and not too prone to claustrophobia...) climb the 109 stone steps to the top for panoramic city views, including a glimpse of the iconic Clifton Suspension Bridge in the distance.
Back on Park St, catch your breath by checking out the variety of independent vintage and record shops lining the street. At the top is the literally unmissable Wills Memorial building at the University of Bristol which dominates the landscape for miles. Though it looks much older, this Neo-Gothic extravaganza officially opened in 1925. There are tours every Saturday at 11am and 1pm which includes access to the tower - a mere 350 steps.
We head back downhill to Bristol's historic centre, a relatively small area concentrated broadly around High Street, Corn Steet, Broad Street and Wine Street. The best place to start is the iconic St Nicholas Market, trading in Bristol since 1743. These days it's a hive of activity, home to independent stalls selling clothes, jewellery, books and knick-knacks, not to mention the diverse range of food vendors and international cuisine.
Foodies are spoilt for choice with a vast choice of cuisines from all over the world including handmade pasta, Kurdish bread and Japanese bento boxes. We see a long queue for Matina, a Middle Eastern joint selling handmade pitta breads filled with a choice of meat or veg options. We figure it must be good and join the queue. I opt for mixed veg and halloumi with everything.
It's a meal in itself and will keep hunger pangs at bay for hours. Bear in mind they don't have a designated seating area outside their concession (some of the others do) so you'll need to bag a seat at one of the communal areas. The wraps are filled to capacity and get messy pretty quickly so take all the napkins you might need.
Tip: if the weather is kind, you could always enjoy your lunch in nearby Castle Park, a popular green space that runs alongside the river. Look out for the picturesque ruins of St Peter's church with some beautifully ornate and fully intact windows. Sadly there is no access to the interior.
A Bristol brewpub
Feeling thirsty? Wander across the spiral Castle Bridge to the Left Handed Giant brew pub, a cool hangout set over three floors with a vast range of craft beers, IPAs, ales, ciders and non-alcoholic options too. The ground floor boasts floor to ceiling windows looking out onto the river with views of the church.
Staff are disarmingly friendly and chatty. "What part of Ireland are you from? he asks as he pulls our pints, before telling us he was born in Cork and how much he loves it there. He gives me a taster of the Hazy IPA before I order a pint. It's refreshing, flavoursome but not too punchy - I like it. We settle in with our drinks and enjoy some great tunes. Here's a flavour: Steely Dan, The Police, Fleetwood Mac, Glen Campbell... All around us people are playing cards or board games. The kind of place to easily lose a few hours.
The old town boasts some of the city's most impressive buildings including the eye-catching Bristol Grand Hotel, the striking Art Nouveau façade of the Clayton Hotel the old Stock Exchange building and St. John-on-the-Wall, the only surviving original city gate. Don't miss the flower-power pavements of Broad St. Click here to download a handy map with loads of useful historic info.
Time to caffeine up
At Full Court Press - come for the coffee, stay for the cake. It's a hipster speciality coffee house so don't ask for an Americano here. It's all Espresso or trendy slow filtered coffee. Don't resist a little treat - their cakes are excellent, particularly the carrot cake with a thick creamy layer of cream cheese frosting on top.
Full Court Press, 59 Broad St, Bristol BS1 2EJ
Just outside the old town walls is the charmingly named Christmas Steps. The picturesque, cobbled lane way connects lower Colston Street to Perry Road via a series of steep steps lined with eclectic independent shops and listed buildings. The Christmas Steps pub on the corner is a cracker - more on that below.
Christmas Step, Bristol
Bristol Cathedral should be on every itinerary, seriously impressive in both scale and sculptural detailing. It's been a place of worship since the 12th century, boasting a beautiful rose window., and the nave and choir showcase intricate examples of stained glass. Don't miss the cloister and garden to the rear. Entry is free but a donation of £5 towards its upkeep is suggested.
Bristol Cathedral, College Green, Bristol BS1 5TJ
As you make your way about town, keep your eyes peeled for the handful of works by world-famous Bristolian and street artist Banksy. They're easy to miss, and not always in the best condition these days. His brilliantly titled Well Hung Lover is unfortunately looking a little worse for wear after a paint attack.
Fans of Banksy and street art in general can learn more by joining a walking tour or downloading a self-guided tour on your phone. It costs £10 and two devices can run the app for up to 24 hours.
Time for jazz...
How about a spot of afternoon jazz at the Old Duke, the city's most famous jazz and blues bar on the corner of King St? Housed in an iconic rust-red building dating back to the 18th century, it has live music every night of the week, with a second afternoon session on Sunday afternoons. Admission is free, though a hat is passed around by bar staff for tips. Inside, original posters dot the walls and ceiling documenting the venue's extraordinary musical history and legacy. Jazz fans will get a kick out of the toilet signposting Duke's for men and Ella's for women.
Despite its age, they have a good variety of craft beers alongside more traditional options and the atmosphere is buzzy by Sunday lunchtime. We pull up two stools and the band kick off, playing a joyful mix of old-time jazz standards, 1920s Charleston and Ragtime. The clientele is a mix of locals and curious visitors, an interesting and colourful cast of characters. A local man walks in the door and heads for his friends, but not before having a little dance with his dog.
The Old Duke, 45 King St, Bristol, BS1 4ER
Dinner 1: Sri Lankan and Tamil food at Nadu
We head to Stokes Croft for dinner, a vibrant neighbourhood to the north of the city, famous for its rejection of chain stores and subsequently lined with independent shops, cafes and restaurants. We'd heard good things about Nadu, one of just a handful of restaurants open late for dinner on a Sunday evening in January.
There are a lot of positives about Nadu: friendly staff, a small but reasonably priced wine list, exciting flavours and cool décor. The menu is varied offering a range of small and large plates (so far so hipster...) main courses and sides. While dishes like the hipsy cabbage and mojo cutlets with coconut rice were delicious, other dishes left us underwhelmed. Dinner over the next two nights turn out to be far more impressive.
Nadu, 77-79 Stokes Croft, Bristol BS1 3RD
Drinks
Enticing lamplit windows frosted with ice is all the encouragement we need to stop for a nightcap at The Christmas Steps pub. Historic pub is the understatement of the year. Dating to c.1600, it's retained many of its original features with stripped brick walls and wooden beams.
It has a great selection of beers and wine by the glass, though I'm yet to get on board with the UK measures of wine in small, medium or large...
Day 2: Clifton Village and Suspension Bridge
In stark contrast to Stokes Croft is the bougie neighbourhood of Clifton Village, an upmarket enclave with brightly-painted townhouses, expensive boutiques and classy restaurants. Without question it's one of the most picturesque parts of the city with vast green areas, its pretty village streets lined in traditional shop fronts with brightly painted façades.
Clifton Arcade, Clifton Village
Clifton Arcade is a must-visit, a haven of gorgeous independent shops and galleries. In some cases it's a niche market, such as the all-things-cat-themed shop (it's adorable, FYI) The Hidden Gallery boasts a remarkable collection of original prints from renowned UK and international artists such as Louise Bourgeois, Matisse, Picasso, David Hockney and Tracy Emin. A Miró stole our hearts - at under £2000 this seemed astonishingly good value for one of the icons of modern art.
Who can resist an independent bookshop, especially one as enticing as Heron Books? Everyone knows they're the best places to shop and this one is a case in point. When you say "I'm looking for a book by an Icelandic author but can't think of his name. Or the title of the book for that matter... and give the vaguest of descriptions and somehow the staff member immediately knows what you're talking about and hands it to you, you know you're on a winner. And when I choose a Tessa Hadley, he gives me a quick synopsis and says it's set in Bristol. We'll take that one too, we say.
Not only that, he's also on the money with his pub recommendations.
Heron Books, 7a Regent St, Clifton, Bristol BS8 4HW
Clifton Suspension Bridge
You can't come to Bristol without visiting the Clifton Suspension Bridge, the iconic landmark of the city. Designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel, it's a seriously impressive and remarkable feat of engineering. Opened in 1864, it runs across the River Avon, spanning the Avon Gorge. Access is free to pedestrians with a £1 fee to cross for vehicles.
One of the best viewing point of the bridge is from the terrace of the observatory tower on the east bank of the river, though on this particular day, the winter sun was so blinding that photography was not very successful. The tower houses a museum documenting the history of the bridge and the city. On its top floor is one of only three working Camera Obscura in the UK, in-situ since the early 1800s. Described on their website as a form of "Victorian CCTV", it's seriously cool. Once you get the hang of how it works, 360 degree real-time views of Bristol appear before your eyes.
Giant’s Cave, Clifton Observatory
Visitors can access the so-called Giant’s Cave from the museum. A 200 foot long tunnel leads to a natural cave in the gorge. It exits onto a viewing platform on the cliff's edge with panoramic views of the bridge and gorge. Just a note - there's a reason we're wearing hard hats. The tunnel is narrow with steep steps and a very low ceiling in places. If you're not a fan of enclosed spaces, this may not be for you.
Cliftonville and Royal York Terrace
It's impossible not to be wowed (and slightly jealous) of the magnificent dwellings in this neighbourhood. Cliftonville Terrace is one of the most admired and photographed streets in this area: a series of tall and elegant townhouses painted in bright colours on a hillside sloping down to the river. Other photogenic streets include Church Lane and Ambrose Road. Just bear in mind before getting too snap-happy: this is a residential area and these are people's homes so a little distance is recommended. Also worth noting - it's extremely hilly.
But of course, the best perspective of the houses is from the harbour. The prime viewing spot is from the quayside of the SS Great Britain but ticket access is required (see day 3). However, there are pretty good views on the section of the harbour between the M Shed museum and the steamship.
Royal York Terrace is another case in point, an 18th century curved terrace of Georgian houses, sitting above a raised walkway over vaulted cellars. It's also in close proximity to one of the bars recommended by our new friend in Heron Books.
Drinks
Located just off the main tourist drag, The Portcullis is a cosy spot with low lamp lighting, its walls adorned with old photographs, posters and paintings. Tom Waits, Prince and Bruce Springsteen feature heavily. It sells mainly Belgian beers, some of potent percentages but they sell those by the glass only. Dogs are welcome. At one point the bar man produces a Tupperware box of treats for little Basil who is waiting patiently for his owners.
The Portcullis, 3 Wellington Terrace, Clifton, Bristol BS8 4LE
Dinner 2: Mediterranean delights at Gambas
"There's huge competition at Wapping Wharf", the guy from Heron Books tell us. "All the restaurants have to be at the top of their game". We've booked dinner over two nights at Cargo, a series of repurposed shipping containers on the harbour, each one distinct and showcasing a different world cuisine.
It's our second evening and we're off to Gambas for tapas. We're starving and a variety of delicious smells make my mouth water as we step inside. Décor is slick and cool and we're seated at a high table with a view of the open kitchen on one side and the harbour on the other. We order cocktails as we peruse the menu: a Negroni and a Guindilla Piccante, the latter a spicy speciality of the house.
Seafood is king here, unsurprisingly, so we order gambas pil-pil and queen scallops, alongside some delectably oozy ham croquettes, patatas bravas, Ibérico pork, and tortilla with sobrasada and honey. Dishes are beautifully presented and service is attentive and friendly. Wine is reasonably priced and we're delighted to find a decent bottle of Tempranillo for £29. We're encouraged to order Goxua, the house dessert, a Basque inspired caramel sponge cake with almonds. We order two and are glad we do. It's excellent and not for sharing. A little gem of a place that does everything right.
Gambas, Unit 12, Cargo 2, Museum St, Bristol BS1 6ZA
Day 3: Harbourside
All aboard the SS Great Britain... Dating to 1843, this was once the largest passenger ship in the world, designed by the Clifton Suspension Bridge engineer Brunel to facilitate a transatlantic service between Bristol and New York City. Today it's been restored to its former glory, recreating the conditions of Victorian life at sea on the world’s first great luxury liner.
Visitors can walk amongst the claustrophobic dorm rooms of regular passengers with their tiny bunk beds and limited facilities, and contrast that with the lavish feasts for first-class passengers on the upper-levels. The experience is unsettlingly real with mannequin figures depicting life as it was back then: playing with their children, cooking in the kitchen, writing letters, giving birth or dying of cholera, accompanied by sound effects. They've even incorporated a rat infestation. Not for the fainthearted.
This features on every Bristol travel guide as one its biggest tourist attractions so booking advanced is advised.
Tip: Wait until 2:30pm for late entry tickets at a reduced fare of £11
SS Great Britain, Great Western Dockyard, Gas Ferry Rd, Bristol BS1 6TY
Lunch: fish and chips by the harbour
Lunch is at the hugely popular Salt and Malt, a seafood restaurant with sit-down options on one side and a takeaway on the other. It's fittingly located in one of the repurposed shipping containers on the wharf. We opt for their famous fish and chips, and a fishcake with chips, both served with homemade tartar sauce and delicious mushy garden peas, not the horrible marrowfat variety. They offer a good selection of craft beers and wines by the glass or bottle.
Salt and Malt, Cargo 2, Gaol Ferry Steps, Bristol BS1 6WD
A afternoon of culture
It's time to absorb some culture in the afternoon. Located beside the iconic Wills Memorial building, Bristol Museum and Art Gallery houses an eclectic collection of archaeology, natural history and art including European Old Masters and Modern and Contemporary.
It's a beautiful building inside and out with a vaulted glass ceiling bringing light to the foyer. Entry is free to the permanent collection with a voluntary donation of £5 suggested. There's a charge for temporary exhibitions and we're lucky enough to catch the Wildlife Photographer of the Year show. Featuring categories for under 10 and upwards, we are privy to some incredible talent. I'm drawn to some of the children's submissions in particular, stunned by the raw talent and keen observation skills of people so young. It must be such a buzz to see your photograph recognised in a national institution.
Bristol Museum & Art Gallery, Queens Rd, Clifton, Bristol BS8 1RL
Prohibition style cocktails at Milk Thistle
An innocuous main entrance door with a discreet sign keeps this speakeasy bar hidden in plain sight. Milk Thistle is a classy cocktail bar set over four floors with dark oak paneling, plush leather chairs and a checkerboard floor. Advance booking is recommended but we got a walk-in table on a damp Tuesday night in January. Press the bell for entrance.
The menu showcases twists on the classics as well as some wildly wonderful new creations. Staff are enthusiastic and friendly, happy to advise on any of the more unusual concoctions, or to adapt anything to your own flavour preferences. I opt for my signature favourite, the Manhattan. They nail it.
M opts for the Old Major, a blend of Bruichladdich Classic Laddie, Architecto Blanco Tequila and Cacao Nib. It's another winner.
Milk Thistle, Quay Head House, Colston Ave, Bristol BS1 1EB
Dinner 3: An Italian feast at Ragù
Another night, another shipping container. Yes you've guessed it. We're back at Wapping Wharf again, headed to Ragù, a much-lauded modern Italian restaurant which turns out to be the foodie highlight of our trip. It's another freezing cold night but inside it's cosy with candles and fairylights, and humming with conversation. All tables are occupied but staff remain friendly, attentive and on the ball.
The menu is divided into four: Snacks, Antipasti. Primi. Secondi. We're advised to order three dishes per person across the different options. It's worth noting that the antipasti and pasta dishes are decent sized portions so order wisely. We opt for two starters, two pasta dishes and share a main fish course. This is elevated Italian cooking at its best with the finest ingredients and some truly innovative flavour combinations. I could eat here every day.
Here's what we had: Friggitelli peppers with stracciatella, tomato compote and pangrattato | Mushroom, mortadella & ricotta crostini. Pappardelle, slow cooked pig cheek. Cavatelli, wild mushrooms, pecorino, black winter truffle. Fish stew with hake, Atlantic prawns and mussels.
We also somehow managed to fit in two entirely unnecessary desserts... But then again, when is dessert ever necessary? An excellent bottle of Sicilian Syrah set us back £37 and glasses are reasonably priced at £6.20. This is a superb restaurant in every way, and one we're sure to return to on our next trip to Bristol.
Ragù, Unit 25, cargo 2, Museum St, Bristol BS1 6ZA
Drinks
By now it's pouring with rain and we're lured for a nightcap to one of Bristol's oldest bars, The Shakespeare. It's a historic beauty dating to the 18th century, with black and white checkered tiles, wood paneling, low lighting and an open fire. An easy place to lose a few hours. As well as beer, they have a fine selection of reasonably priced wines by the glass. We opt for a reserve Rioja and a Pinot Noir. Not your average pub wine.
The Shakespeare Tavern, 68 Prince Street, Bristol
Where to stay in Bristol - a superb boutique hotel that ticked all the boxes
Entrance to the Hotel du Vin is through an arched cobbled courtyard, illuminated by Victorian-style streetlamps. Through the arch we see the last surviving old city gate. Housed in a former 18th century Sugar Factory, already it feels like somewhere a little bit special.
We've booked a deluxe room, availing of a discounted deal off-peak on booking.com. It's gorgeous: spacious and bright with two large windows and a huge comfy bed with fluffy pillows. Walls are painted in a calming sage green while freestanding lamps ensure lighting is low, creating a romantic atmosphere. This is a comfortable room that's a pleasure to hang out in, with twin arm chairs and a coffee table, a Nespresso machine, a variety of teas and some Ferrero Rocher which are sweetly replaced every day by the cleaning staff.
Luxury is complete in the bathroom with a classy black & white tiled floor, a luxuriously sized rolltop bath and a vast and powerful walk-in rain shower. An abundance of l'Occitane bath products, large fluffy bath towels, robes and slippers are all you need to recreate your own personal spa experience each evening.
The icing on the cake is the breakfast experience each morning in the elegant dining room. In addition to the Continental buffet spread, a hot breakfast to order feels like a treat these days with options such as smoked salmon with scrambled eggs, avocado toast or Eggs Benedict. Staff are outstanding, paying great attention to the small details and ensuring an elevated breakfast experience. A superb hotel in every way.
Hotel du Vin, The Sugar House, Narrow Lewins Mead, Bristol BS1 2NU
Friends have also recommended The Bristol and Hort's Townhouse as terrific alternatives.
Getting there
Getting there is a breeze, with direct flights from Dublin and the UK with both Aer Lingus and Ryanair. Flight time from Dublin is approximately 1 hour 10 minutes.
The Bristol Airport Flyer provides a frequent service between the airport and the city centre / central bus station. The A1 runs 24/7 with buses approximately every 10 minutes during peak times and less frequently off-peak. Tickets are £9 one way or £15 return and can be purchased in advance or directly from the driver. Journey time, depending on traffic, is from 20 - 40 minutes. More information here
NB: it's worth noting that the First Bus app is not available for download on non-UK mobile phones which is incredibly inconvenient, particularly if you're planning on using the public transport system. Thankfully it's a compact city and easy to get from A to B on foot but having the option of taking a bus would've saved our legs on a few occasions. It may be possible to tap on and off using your bank card on some bus services but being able to purchase tickets in advance and have access to real-time information on our phones would've been really useful.
Traveling with a group? Welcome Pickups offer excellent value for money and a reliable airport transfer service. Book your transfer here
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