Unmissable places to visit part I: Monopoli, Ostuni, Polignano a Mare & Locorotondo
Monopoli
Puglia was everything I wanted it to be. And a little bit more. For years I've dreamt of visiting this region, far south in the heel of Italy's boot. And for 11 wonderful days, it felt like we were living on the set of an Italian film. The landscape is dreamy, with azure waters I've seen only on postcards; its vast arid countryside is lined with olive trees while impossibly pretty whitewashed towns sit perched on hills overlooking it all. The people are warm & friendly, it's sunny all the time, and we didn't have one bad meal the entire trip - unsurprisingly, as the region is lauded for its exceptional cuisine.
Puglia has a rich tradition of olive oil production, and Burrata is one of its specialties. Factor in some fresh-from-the-ocean seafood and you'll eat like a queen. And of course we need to talk about the excellent Puglian wines. Primitivo and Negroamaro, their renowned smooth-as-silk reds, are always my tipple of choice. But on our first day we were introduced to the rosé (or rosato) versions of both, which are something very special: pale-pink, not too dry with hints of strawberry and maybe a little spice. Far more interesting than the Provençal rosés (sorry France), and perfect for when the temperatures are hitting 39 degrees by lunchtime.
In short, Puglia gives the Amalfi Coast a run for its money in terms of natural beauty but without the price tag. Accommodation, food & drink is still fantastic value for money. So what are you waiting for?
Monopoli marina
Our trip kicked off with four nights in beautiful Monopoli, halfway down the east coast. From there, we made our way to Matera in neighbouring Basilicata for two nights before heading further down the east coast to Castro, ending with three nights in Lecce, the so-called Florence of the south. In this Puglia travel guide part I, I'm focusing on Monopoli, its coastline, and day trips to Ostuni, Polignano a Mare and Locorotondo, all easily accessible by public transport if you don't wish to rent a car. Travel Guides II and II will cover the other destinations and will follow later this month.
Contents:
Monopoli: Travel guide to slow living in Puglia
Musings and meditations
Centro Storico, Monopoli
It's day one and we wander through the labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets that make up Monopoli's historic centre. It's siesta-time and the city is silent. An artist sits sketching quietly in the shade and I photograph her, unobserved. Perched right on the sea, the whitewashed buildings of the old town are resplendent against a glorious blue sky and the turquoise waters of the Adriatic. Brightly-painted boats bob in its picturesque harbour while every street looks like a postcard. Its façades are beautifully maintained while plants and flowers burst exuberantly from balconies overhead. So much beauty - it's almost too much to take in.
Centro Storico, Monopoli
After less than a day, we'd fallen completely in love with this city, invigorated by its lively atmosphere and general sense of joie-de-vivre. Life happens here in the great outdoors: its beautiful piazzas are made for people-watching while the marina comes alive at night with people taking a passeggiata along the lungomare (promenade), drinking cocktails from streetside bars or indulging in yet another gelato. The sea views are expansive and intoxicating and I pause and sigh. After months of grey skies and rain, my soul is replenished.
Lungomare, Monopoli
We slip easily into the slow, languorous rhythm of life, relinquishing all thoughts of 'doing' and embrace just simply 'being'. Here's it's less about ticking off the tourist sights and more about savouring the simple pleasures of life, which, let's be honest, revolve mainly around food. Think long lazy lunches over a glass of wine or two, a morning coffee on a sun-warmed square, a simple but delicious bowl of pasta, a dip in the sea as the sun lowers in the sky or that first sip of a Campari Spritz which signals the start of the evening...
But that's not to say there aren't interesting places to visit in Monopoli. It's definitely worth a trip to the impressive basilica. Founded originally in the 12th century, it was entirely rebuilt in the Baroque style in the 1700s. As you would expect, the interior is extravagantly and lavishly decorated.
Cattedrale Maria Santissima della Madia, Largo Cattedrale
Castello Carlo V is a 16th century fortification on a promontory overlooking the sea, and one of the dominating landmarks of the city. A gallery space currently showcases a fascinating Surrealist exhibition with works by Miro, DalÃ, Max Ernst and Magritte. In July and August, the castle stays open until 11pm. Lookout points on the upper level frame picture-postcard views of the harbour.
Castello Carlo V, Largo Castello, 5 - exhibition runs until 25th August 2024
Places to eat in Monopoli: our top two picks
Locanda sul Porto
This local favourite is hugely popular and it's not hard to see why. The food is top notch but the prices don't reflect that - it's excellent value for money. Tucked away down a side street close to the port, this restaurant is a little gem. Staff are warm and friendly but extremely professional and efficient.
We ate: Carpaccio di Tonno (perfectly seasoned and melt in your mouth. Exquisite) and Burrata Capocollo - the creamiest Burrata wrapped in cured ham served on red onion jam. Seafood ravioli and Tagliata di Manzo, all washed down with an excellent bottle of Primitivo. With a bottle of sparkling water and two coffees, the bill came to a ridiculously good €77.
It's a really in-demand spot and they were constantly turning people away. Like so many older restaurants in this part of Italy, there's no online booking system. If you want a table, you'll need to call or drop in a few days before. We dropped in the day before and the manager kindly squeezed us in.
Locanda sul Porto, Via Cristoforo Colombo, 10/11
My Wine | Il piacere del palato
An evening spent here was one of the highlights of our entire trip. Located just around the corner from the Locanda above, this is one for a special occasion. Actually scratch that - an evening here is the special occasion. With a small number of tables streetside on the terrace and just a few more inside the gorgeous wine bar, reservations are essential. Let's just say that the clue is in the name: Il piacere del palato - the pleasures of the palate. Every dish is a feast for the senses. And for the soul.
My Wine is essentially a one-man show. And that man is Gianni De Bellis, the warm, larger-than-life owner, host, server and sommelier. Gianni is someone who takes real pride in the food and wine that they serve and clearly loves nothing more than seeing his guests' reactions to his cuisine. Our paroxysms of joy at every bite must have made his day.
On this occasion we took a welcome break from carbs and opted for seafood all the way. We started with two Carpaccio dishes, one with ribbons of melt-in-your-mouth tuna and green apple, the other with scampi. But not scampi as you know it. This was finely sliced and delicate, marinated and served with crunchy dried raspberries and pink peppercorns - the most extraordinary combination of flavours. A crisp Puglian Primitivo rosato was the perfect accompaniment and the raspberries brought all its subtle flavours to the fore.
The fillet of seabass was hands-down the best we've ever eaten. Almost chunky and cooked to silky perfection, it flaked easily away and dissolved on your tongue. Because of the reactions of the couple at the next table to their tiramisu, we followed suit and ordered one to share. Somehow they've retained all the traditional ingredients but have made it light as air. I almost ordered a second one...
My Wine is a place to linger for hours, chatting to Gianni, slowly savouring the food and wine and enjoying the comings and goings at the port down below. Not wanting to leave, we ordered two glasses of red, letting Gianni surprise us with something of his choosing. He chose well. So we ordered two more...
Our bill came to €156. It's on the pricier side in Monopoli but believe me, it's worth every penny.
My Wine, Via Cavaliere, 9
We also liked Bar Ristorante Micasa, which benefits from one of the best locations in the city. Overlooked by the impressive Castello Carlo V, a stone arch frames views of the sea beyond. This holds fond memories for us as our first meal in Monopoli. After a long day, a delayed flight and a hairy drive in our rental car, we were verging on hangry when we stumbled upon this place. At 11pm people were still tucking into plates of pasta on the terrace - a good sign.
Thankfully they serve until midnight and had no problems seating us for food. We ordered the squid ink orecchiette with prawns, and spaghettone with tuna - traditional dishes with a modern twist. A first night in Puglia calls for a bottle of one of their renowned regional wines. A smooth-as-silk Primitivo cost a mere €20. And just like that, all was right with the world once more. The power of pasta and wine...
Micasa, Largo Castello, 17
Aperitivo time
There are loads of great bars in Monopoli but we particularly loved Karmico - a casual cocktail bar / kiosk with tables on the street. They make a potent Spritz which certainly put a pep in my step. Drinks here are really inexpensive.
Karmico, Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 80
We also loved Palosanto. It's on a quiet, pretty little square - casual with a local vibe.Â
 Palosanto, Via Cacamece, 2
Sottocoperta serves great cocktails and if you can get a table on the terrace overlooking the marina, you're onto a winnerÂ
Sottocoperta, Via Orazio Comes, 6
A special place to stay
Loft 900, Home and Spa
From the moment we walked in the front door, we knew this was somewhere a little bit special - a huge airy apartment with high ceilings and a fabulous checkerboard floor. The décor throughout is stunning with thoughtful attention to detail. A bedroom on a mezzanine overlooks the living space and there are two large bathrooms: one with a rain shower, the other with a freestanding bath, and scented candles are dotted throughout. The location is great - about a 7 minute walk to the old town and to the harbour, and also within walking distance of a supermarket. There is free parking outside on the street if you're lucky enough to get a spot.
For a video walk-through, check out my Instagram highlights here
Loft 900 Home and Spa, 103 Via Luigi Indelli,
Day trips from Monopoli
One of Monopoli's biggest selling points is its coastal location with easy access to some of Puglia's most-popular day-trip destinations. On day three, we enjoyed breakfast in Monopoli, lunch in Ostuni and sea swims in the evening before returning to Monopoli for dinner and drinks. Another day we hopped on the train to have lunch in Polignano a Mare before exploring the old town.
Cala Porta Vecchia, Monopoli
You don't have to go far to find a beach - the city has a small sandy strip with enticingly clear water. Unsurprisingly, because of its proximity to town, it can get quite busy. However, there are any number of lovely beaches just a few kms south of Monopoli including Porto Bianco, Porto Verde and Porto Rosso.
Grotta della Cala Tre Buchi
Grotta della Cala Tre Buchi
Our best find was Grotta della Cala Tre Buchi, a craggy landscape of natural sea coves with azure and impossibly clear waters. The terrain is mainly rocky instead of sandy. After a particularly hot day with temperatures reaching 40 degrees, it was an idyllic spot to cool down and spend the evening. The coves were busy but not crowded, mainly with locals or Italians on holiday. It's an enviable lifestyle and more than once I found myself daydreaming about what it would be like to live here and have all of this at your fingertips.
Grotta della Cala Tre Buchi
Grotta della Cala Tre Buchi is about 3-4kms from Monopoli. There is a free car park on the road close to the walkway down to the sea. Google maps link here
Ostuni
Ostuni, La Città Bianca
La Città Bianca, the White City, certainly lived up to its name. One of the most visited places in Puglia, the view upon approach is breathtaking. Perched on a hill with commanding views of the surrounding countryside, whitewashed houses and buildings appear to be stacked on top of each other, encircled within the old medieval town walls. Even the outskirts are beautiful, its streets lined with vibrant oleander trees.
Ostuni
Step into the Centro Storico and surrender to getting lost in the labyrinthine maze of alleyways and squares; where staircases lead to yet another winding laneway, and there is something beautiful around every corner. A photographer's dream, the houses appear to gleam in the sunshine, with brightly painted shutters and hanging baskets everywhere.
Ostuni, Centro Storico
The city's most famous landmark is the cathedral which boasts a magnificent rose window. Located at the highest point in the city, it dates to the late 15th century. Its facade was built in the late Gothic style using a terracotta-coloured Ostunese limestone, contrasting beautifully with the surrounding white streets.
Cathédrale Santa Maria Assunta, Largo Arcid Teodoro Trinchera, 29
Ostuni: where to eat
We loved this restaurant - Opera Prima - located just outside the old town. Lured by a terrace overlooking La Città Bianca, it offers some of the most spectacular views across the countryside. But I'm happy to report that the food and wine were excellent too. Over a long lazy lunch we tucked into Fiori di Zucchi and burrata, then seafood gnocchi, washed down with chilled glasses of Negroamaro rosato. We lingered just a little longer over coffee.
Opera Prima, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 48
FYI: As with most historic cities in this part of Italy, traffic is restricted in the Centro Storico. However, there are a number of car parks on the outskirts with a reasonable rate per hour.
Polignano a Mare
Polignano a Mare
Polignano a Mare attracts a lot of tourists but for good reason - it's jawdroppingly gorgeous.  The dramatic location is a showstopper: whitewashed and honey-coloured buildings of the old town appear to rise from the limestone clifftop, slotting into each other like a jigsaw. Down below, the coastline hugs Cala Porto, a compact white pebble beach with azure water flanked by cliffs. Because of its size, it gets very busy during peak-season. Â
There are a number of panoramic terraces offering spectacular views. My favourite viewing point is from the Lungomare Domenico Modugno - across the bay is the full expanse of the old town in all its glory. The square is named after the singer who found international fame with Volare and who was born in Polignano. In the centre stands a wonderful commemorative sculpture to the singer who stands with his back to the sea, arms spread as if in flight. He appears to be mid-song, his eyes are closed and his demeanour is joyful and full of life. How very Italian!
Entertainment is provided by teenagers and children showing off down below, diving from vertiginous rocky ledges and performing dramatic backflips to impress onlookers.
Polignano a Mare
Where to eat in Polignano a Mare
Just inside Porta Vecchia, the main entrance to the old town, Osteria dei Mullini caught my eye. Tucked away down a narrow alleyway, the restaurant is overlooked by a picturesque church while its terrace is shaded beneath a canopy of leafy green vines with grapes hanging overhead.
Osteria dei Mullini, Via Mulini, 2
Â
Like all of the best places in Italy, they specialise in simple traditional dishes made well, and the local wines are great. I tucked into my holiday favourite, seafood pasta with mussels, clams and the sweetest prawns, washed down with an excellent Negroamaro rosato - a snip at €4 per glass.
After a lazy amble around the Centro Storico, we stopped for gelato at Super Mago del Gelo Mario Campanella, one of the most popular spots in the town. You'll find it just across the road from Porta Vecchia - there's always a queue but it moves quickly.
Super Mago del Gelo Mario Campanella, P.zza Giuseppe Garibaldi, 22
A searingly hot day called for a refreshing aperitivo - a Negroni Sbagliato hit the spot at the lovely Beija Flor. The terrace is cosy and inviting, and the staff are warm and friendly. We strolled to the train station and were back in time for dinner in Monopoli.
Beija Flor, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, 30
FYI: Polignano a Mare is a less than ten-minute journey on the train from Monopoli - it's just one stop away so there is no need to drive and to deal with parking.
Locorotondo
Villa Communale, Locorontondo
Locorontondo is just one of about five impossibly pretty towns in the Valle d'Itria - the valley in the middle of Puglia. Often referred to as one of the most beautiful towns in Italy, the centro storico is cocooned within the circular old town walls. It's compact with not a huge amount of sightseeing to do, but wandering the streets is a pleasure in itself. Residents have taken such care and pride in their homes and businesses: gleaming whitewashed facades line the narrow cobbled streets with colourful shutters & flowers everywhere.
Centro Storico, Locorontondo
Villa Communale is a lovely leafy park on the outskirts with panoramic views across the countryside. It also offers a welcome reprieve from the sun - here's where the locals hang out, having loud engaging conversations beneath the trees. I could watch them for hours...
Villa Communale, Locorontondo
In what felt like a scene from a film, we stumbled upon a traditional Italian wedding in full-flow. Because of the heat, the church door was left open so we were able to gatecrash a little and watch the ceremony from the steps. More entertaining still was how they managed to squeeze the car down the narrowest of alleyways to head for their reception.
Maria SS Annunziata, Piazza Fra Giuseppe Andrea Rodio
We had breakfast in this lovely local cafe - Caffe della Villa, just inside one of the old town gates on a ridiculously pretty square. Here I had the first of many pasticciotti, a traditional Puglian shortcrust pastry, filled with custard. Absolutely delicious and the perfect accompaniment to my morning espresso.
Caffe della Villa, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele
Our last stop was lunch at the trendy Vinifera Enoteca before hitting the road to Matera. Doubling as a wine shop and retailer of local produce, we enjoyed two delicious salads and a glass of sparkling Negroamaro in the loveliest of settings. The local ingredients are the star of the show - an excellent olive oil was drizzled liberally over our salads, and mopped up with some crusty bread. Divine!
Â
Vinifera vini & affini, Largo Piave, 10
Locorontondo is a lot less touristy than some other Pugliese towns. It’s got a relaxed & chilled-out vibe and is definitely worth a visit on a day trip.
Practicalities: getting there
Lungomare, Brindisi
We flew direct from Dublin to Brindisi Airport with Aer Lingus. We hired a car from Discover Cars with pick-up from a location on the outskirts of the airport. A shuttle bus was provided.
You can read part II of our Puglia adventures here. This one focuses on the lovely seaside town of Castro. Part III will cover Lecce and Brindisi, and the final instalment will showcase our trip to neighbouring Basilicata and two nights in a cave hotel in magical Matera. Stay tuned!
Buon viaggio
Karyn x
コメント