Ile de Re: a whistle stop travel guide
- Karyn Farrell
- Aug 10
- 16 min read
Updated: 1 day ago
Promenade @ La Flotte, Ile de Ré
It's our first evening on Île de Ré. We're perched on a wall on the promenade and everything is still and peaceful. Boats are bobbing gently and there's barely a ripple on the water but in contrast, the sky is dramatic and awash with colour, moving from bursts of orange, pink and purple to the most calming shades of blue before darkness set in. It's heart-stoppingly beautiful.
Promenade @ La Flotte, Ile de Ré
Is Île de Ré worth visiting?
Île de Ré has all the ingredients for a great holiday: villages that look like postcards, kilometres of pristine sandy beaches, a top-class network of cycle tracks, delicious food and a chilled-out seaside vibe, to name just a few. At just thirty kilometres from top to toe and 5km at its widest section, Île de Ré has a unique landscape, renowned for its oyster beds, vineyards and salt-marshes, and covered in vast areas of pine forest.
Bridge connecting La Rochelle to Ile de Ré
Île de Ré is an island off the west coast of France, linked to the mainland by a 3 km bridge. We've just spent a few days in La Rochelle and are looking forward to a lazier pace of island life. It doesn't disappoint. There's a seductive laid-back charm to this place, and a faded nostalgic elegance that's instantly endearing. Think a low-key, unpretentious version of the Riviera.
It's all about the outdoorsy, beachy vibes on Île de Ré - no-one dresses up here so leave your glamour at home and embrace a casual-chic. We ditch the sightseeing agenda, hop on our bikes and see where the day takes us. Exploring on two wheels is an absolute pleasure, following a network of quiet roads and cycle paths through idyllic countryside with the sound of birds in the air.
We cycle through a series of photogenic villages dotted across the island, one prettier than the next, with window-boxes bursting with flowers and plants, and hollyhocks seeming to sprout wildly from cracks in the pavement. The architecture is beautiful with a consistent visually pleasing colour-scheme across the entire island. This is no accident. Planning regulations are strict, with a limited colour palette to be adhered to, and a height restriction on its buildings.
La Flotte, Ile de Ré
Three days was certainly not enough time to do it justice but it certainly gave us a flavour of island life, and a thirst for more. I could easily imagine spending a couple of weeks here, and getting a proper feel for its distinct regions. But for now, here's my whistlestop travel guide to Ile-de-Ré, covering our favourite things to see and do, as well as a snapshot of some of its villages, beaches and restaurants.
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Contents:
An affordable and charming place to stay in La Flotte, Île de Ré
Promenade @ La Flotte, Ile de Ré
We're staying in La Flotte, one of the many picturesque villages on the island, and it's love at first sight. We get off the bus at Vierge and walk up the first of many absurdly beautiful streets, lined in whitewashed houses with colourful shutters in tasteful shades of green, blue, lavender and grey. We check into the Hôtel Le Français, a small three-star hotel in the heart of the village. We're instantly chuffed with our choice - the receptionist is warm, friendly and chatty and makes us feel welcome straight away, while the location is a cracker, right on the harbour.
Port @ La Flotte, Ile de Ré
But it's only when we see our room that we realise how much we've lucked out with a window opening out to a fabulous view of the old port. It's early afternoon but already it's buzzing down below, with people queuing for ice-cream at La Martinière, the famous gelateria downstairs. There are branches all over the island.
While the accommodation is nothing fancy, it ticks lots of boxes for us. It's reasonably priced and a decent size with plenty of storage, a comfy bed, a fan and a powerful rain shower. But it's the sea view that's the pièce de résistance. We slept with the windows open every night to let the cool sea air in. For a video walk-through, see my Instagram stories highlights here
1 Cr Félix Faure, 17630 La Flotte, Île de Ré
The villages and sights of Ile de Re: a whistlestop travel guide
La Flotte
Our first evening is spent pottering around La Flotte, mainly taking too many pictures of its pretty streets and shuttered windows. La Flotte is recognised as one of the "Plus Beaux Villages de France", one of its most beautiful villages, and it's not hard to see why.
The main centre of activity is unsurprisingly the old port, lined with lively restaurants and bars, and with a pretty lighthouse at the end of the pier.
Lighthouse on the port @ La Flotte, Ile de Ré
After a whole fifteen minutes of walking, we stop for an apéritif at a waterside table - we're on holidays after all.
Port @ La Flotte, Ile de Ré
Where to eat in La Flotte, Île de Ré
Dinner on evening one is at Chez Raph, one of the village's newest additions to the culinary scene. After a glowing recommendation by friends on their recent visit, it was top of our list. Located on a side street just off the port, it boasts a rustic façade with deep-green shutters, its name in a cheerful red font. It's deceptively big with a number of adjoining rooms with stripped brick walls. Even so, almost all tables are occupied by early evening. We pop in without a reservation on a Saturday evening and are seated on the terrace at the back.
Menu is on a blackboard with a small selection of cold and hot sharing plates. We're intrigued to see Asian-inspired dishes like tempura prawns and gyoza, alongside more traditional offerings like salmon gravlax and Île de Ré favourite, oysters. Everything we order is delicious but the prawns were the winner for me.
We finish off with two outstanding desserts: tartelette citron and a tartelette fraise (lemon and strawberry tarts), set on a crumbly biscuit base.
Chez Raph, 6 Rue du Général de Gaulle, 17630 La Flotte
On our last night on the island, we opt for an al-fresco picnic. We pick up some wine and order a takeaway pizza from Il Gabbiano, an authentic Italian pizzeria close to the port. We eat it on the promenade while watching the sun set. It's absolute bliss.
Il Gabbiano, 15 Rue du Général de Gaulle
Promenade @ La Flotte, Ile de Ré
Tip: Life on Ile de Ré can be quite active with lots of cycling and trips to the seaside. Boulangerie Feuillette has a delectable selection of sandwiches, quiches, pastries and patisserie to take with you on the go. We pass on our second day and there's a huge queue down the street. We assume it has to be good and join the masses.
Thankfully the queue moves quickly and before long, we have the perfect picnic in hand - rustic baguettes piled high with ham, cheese and tomatoes, a crumbly Quiche Lorraine and two delicate chocolate eclairs for good measure. They also sell a variety of different crusty breads and baguettes. Their motto is 'we're more than a boulangerie'. I can only concur.
Boulangerie Feuillette, 20 Rue du Général de Gaulle, 17630 La Flotte
Concerts on La Flotte
Gabriel Saglio live @ La Flotte, Ile de Ré
We're treated to a free outdoor concert on our last evening with a stage set up at the port. I love how commonplace this is in France, and am always impressed at how they value the arts, making them accessible to all.
Gabriel Saglio live @ La Flotte, Ile de Ré
Our visit coincides with a show by the energetic Gabriel Saglio and his band entertaining us with an infectious blend of world music, chanson and African influences. The atmosphere was buzzy and fun with people of all ages having a bop on the port.
Cycling on Île de Ré
It's our first morning on the island and another beautiful sunny day. Our first port of call is Réavélo Cyclo-Surf, one of the many bike rental spots in the village. We want to see as much of the island as we can over the next three days, and have our sights set on an electric bike to cover some of the longer distances. Our plans are thwarted when we're told they've all been booked up already. So my first tip is - if it's an electric bike that you desire, make sure to book one online or ring up, even if just a few days in advance.
We settle for two regular city bikes, comforted by the thought that the landscape is relatively flat. What we haven't counted on are the gale-force winds that sweep the island during our stay. Which, of course, has settled down to a light breeze on the day we leave...
Cycling is a way of life on Île de Ré. For a relatively small island, it hosts an impressive 138 kms of cycle paths crisscrossing between all the main towns, villages and sights of interest. Much of the infrastructure is off-road too which makes it really safe for children. Link here to download a useful map of the cycling infrastructure, and which also helpfully notes the distances between the main towns.
Abbaye des Châteliers
While we didn't do a huge amount of sightseeing on the island, we really wanted to visit the 12th century Cistercian abbey, located approximately 2 kms from La Flotte. It's Sunday morning and a beautiful sunny day with big fluffy clouds in the sky.
Cycle path La Flotte, Ile de Ré
It's a scenic and easy cycle across open countryside with vineyards on one side and vast expanses of sea on the other. Pristine whitewashed houses with red roof tiles are dotted across the landscape and it's all ridiculously picturesque and very French. Birds are singing, there's a warm breeze blowing (the gale force winds haven't picked up by this point...) and at that moment, holiday vibes have well and truly kicked in and everything is perfect.
On approach, the abbey is monumental and very striking. What we see today are the well-preserved ruins of a Gothic style church nave, immense stone arches and the remains of the cloister walls. As well as becoming an important spiritual centre, it was also significant in terms of agriculture - the monks who settled on the island had a role to play in developing the salt and wine trade.
The surrounding gardens are beautifully maintained with flourishes of brightly coloured flowers and vast swathes of lavender bush. At the back we catch a glimpse of the iconic bridge which connects Ile de Ré to La Rochelle.
The abbey is free to visit.
Bridge connecting La Rochelle to Ile de Ré
Abbaye des Châteliers, Route, La Prée, 17630 La Flotte
Saint-Martin-de-Ré
Saint-Martin-de-Ré, Ile de Ré
Next stop is the picture-perfect Saint-Martin-de-Ré, the island's main town and a designated UNESCO World Heritage site since 2008. We take a meandering coastal route but there is a much more direct route from La Flotte which takes only about 15 minutes. We're taking the day at our leisure and enjoy the deviation. We pass a series of oyster bars or cabanes, essentially wooden huts with outdoor seating, which are absolutely buzzing on this Sunday afternoon.
Saint-Martin is unsurprisingly stunning. Renowned for its unusual 17th century star-shaped fortifications, its impressive entrance gates indicate that we are entering a site of some significance.
Saint-Martin-de-Ré, Ile de Ré
We head first across Parc de la Barbette and walk along the promenade until we come to the lighthouse (there are an abundance of lighthouses on this island, we've noticed). We sit on a wall overlooking a turquoise ocean, legs dangling, enjoying the sun on our faces, and take it all in. Lazy Sunday vibes are real.
We eventually drag ourselves away and head for the beautiful and lively old port. Like La Flotte but on a larger scale, it's lined with bars, restaurants, boutiques and art galleries.
Old port, Saint-Martin-de-Ré, Ile de Ré
Lunch is at Le Bistrot du Marin, a local institution famous for its seafood and buzzy atmosphere. Located right on the port, it's immediately appealing with a pale stone façade and duck-egg blue shutters. It's busy but they squeeze us in at the last available table on the terrace. We like it straight away - the servers are warm and friendly with a kind word and a smile for everyone.
Food is nothing fancy - just good quality rustic bistro fare which hits the spot. I opt for the tuna tartare and he asks if I'd like some frites too. Oui, I say. It's an indulgent lazy Sunday after all. M opts for a creamy Burrata with a juicy tomato salad, washed down with glasses of a chilled local Rosé. We linger for a while over some excellent coffee and watch the comings and goings on the port. A great spot - easy to see why it's so popular.
Le Bistrot du Marin, 10 Quai Nicolas Baudin, 17410 Saint-Martin-de-Ré
Fed and watered, we're ready to roll. We don't get very far until we come to the picturesque Church of Saint Martin on a very pretty square. Looming above the church is the observatory bell tower - from the top, visitors can enjoy spectacular views of not only the town, but vast swathes of the island landscape. All this for just €2.50.
Clocher Observatoire de Saint-Martin en Ré, 3 Pl. Eudes d'Aquitaine, 17410 Saint-Martin-de-Ré
La Couarde-Sur-Mer
It's back on our bikes again to cross to the other side of the island, and catch our first glimpse of the 'marais salants', the salt marshes that occupy much of the northern half of the island.
We arrive in the pretty village of La Couarde-Sur-Mer to a vide-grenier in full swing. Literally translating as an 'attic emptying', it's an informal type of flea market, where residents line the streets in front of their homes, selling off secondhand or unwanted goods and antiques. On this Sunday evening, the main street of the village has been completely taken over and a festival atmosphere has kicked in.
It occurs to me that this is less about business transactions and more of a social occasion. Bottles of wine are opened and cigarettes are smoked while the conversations are loud and infectious. There's no getting through here on our bikes so we lock them up and take a stroll. There are plenty of fascinating things on sale but sadly we have no means to take anything back with us.
The focal point of this lovely village is the 19th church, Notre-Dame-de-l'Annonciation. Above the porch I note the epigraph "République française - Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité" and it stops me in my tracks. There's so much power in that simple motto and in those three words. Sadly, instead of embracing them wholeheartedly, I feel those ideals are gradually being eroded away in today's society.
A labyrinth of narrow streets and flower-filled alleyways radiates out from the main square, lined with pretty stone houses with brightly painted shutters that make my heart ache with longing. There is so much beauty on this small island.
The beaches of La Couarde-Sur-Mer
The coastline to the south of the village has a 5km stretch of soft sandy beaches. We're overheating after the trip across the island. Cycling against the now very strong winds while the sun beats down has left us hot and sweaty so a dip in the sea is much-needed.
It's the Atlantic Ocean so we brace ourselves but actually the temperature is pretty mild, almost balmy, The wind is wild and unsurprisingly so are the waves which almost knock us out off our feet. Not hard to see why the beaches here are popular with surfers. We don't stay in too long but it revives us. We chill on the beach for a while until it's time to get back on our bikes again to head home.
Vineyards, Ile de Ré
The final stretch cross-country back to La Flotte is a scenic one. I'm constantly stopping to take photos - the landscape is ridiculously pretty and surprisingly green considering the wind and its proximity to the sea. I'm stopped in my tracks by a postcard-worthy scene. It's a lush vineyard overlooked by three pristine cottages with red roofs and matching jade-green shutters. The sky overhead is blue with huge fluffy clouds. It looks like a painting. And at this stage Martin is a mere speck in the distance. He's homeward-bound.
Vineyards, Ile de Ré
It's early evening when we make it back to La Flotte. My hair and clothes are full of sand and my skin is salty with sweat. I'm a bit sunburned and a little bedraggled but I feel healthy and rejuvenated. It's been one of those good-to-be-alive kind of days.
Sainte-Marie-de-Re
Not ones to stay still for long (or at least I'm not...), we shower and are back on our bikes again for one final Sunday outing - dinner in the pretty village of Sainte-Marie-de-Re. It's a short but picturesque cycle through a mainly forested area and I'm immediately struck by the smell of pine. At this point the weather has turned. A lot. The wind is now at full-force and it's feeling a little chilly. It's also started drizzling and I'm sensing animosity about my idea to leave La Flotte though I can't be sure...
Les Tilleuls, Sainte-Marie-de-Re
We have no plans and no reservations but Les Tilleuls looks cosy and inviting. For once, the demand is for indoor tables and we manage to get the last one - it's a popular spot. At this stage we are ravenous. I opt for an unusual deep-fried Burrata (it's great) and for something different, a hake dish in a coconut and lemongrass curry with sticky Thai rice. It's a revelation and everything I wanted to eat on that chilly evening - warm and comforting and bursting with fresh zingy flavours. We splash out on a bottle of Pinot Noir and finish things off with a delectable Crème Brûlée.
The cycle home doesn't seem all that bad after a feast.
Le Tilleuls, 9 Cr des Jarrières, 17740 Sainte-Marie-de-Ré
Phare des Baleines
It's our last full day on Ile de Ré and we're headed for Phare des Baleines, the lighthouse of the whales, one of the most popular places to visit on the island. Sadly named after the large number of whales that used to wash up on its shores, the 19th century lighthouse stands on the westernmost point of the island. It's an extraordinary, almost vertigo-inducing sight on approach as it towers over everything else across the landscape.
Up until this point, we hadn't seen large groups of tourists but it seems this is where they hang out en-masse. However, the queue to ascend the lighthouse moves quickly and before long, we're making our way up an ornate but very winding staircase to the top. I start to feel dizzy pretty quickly but thankfully there are frequent window openings on the way up to step into to catch your breath.
The views from the top are pretty epic, across the vast expanse of ocean beyond. though the wind is absolutely insane. Down below, the other tower and museum is entirely dwarfed. Absolutely worth the climb up the 257 steps.
It only costs €4.80 to access the tower but you can also buy a combined ticket to include the tower and museum as well. Rates can be found here.
Phare des Baleines, 155 All. du Phare, 17590 Saint-Clément-des-Baleines
Plage de la Conche
When we arrive back down to land again, we head east along the coast wall until we come to Plage de la Conche, a beautiful stretch of sandy beach popular with kite surfers. The walkway is sheltered and bordered by forest. Along the way, stone benches have been carved into the rocky landscape. We luck out and find a free one at the end with fabulous views of the sea.
We sit beneath the trees for an hour watching the kite surfers do their thing. It's hypnotic and they are seriously impressive. Birds are swooping in and out of the trees overhead and the sun has reemerged. I'm completely relaxed
Ars-en-Ré
Port @ Ars-en-Re
A number of free shuttle bus services operate across the island on a seasonal basis, each one covering a different area. Timetables and further details here. We hop on Navette E for a quick stroll around the beautiful port town of Ars-en-Ré, the last stop-off on our travels. Located to the north of the island, the town stands in the heart of the iconic salt marshes and is close to the Lilleau des Niges nature reserve.
Ars-en-Ré is also recognised as one of the "Plus Beaux Villages de France". It's easy to see why with its abundance of pristine white houses with shutters in various shades of green and grey, and a network of narrow cobbled streets with hollyhocks springing up everywhere.
Its most famous landmark is the iconic church of Saint-Étienne, with its distinctive black and white Gothic steeple. Standing at 47 metres tall, it can be seen for miles and to this day, it still serves as a landmark for sailors.
Inside there's a beautiful tapestry embroidered with symbols of the different villages and points of interest across the island.
Practical Information: Getting to and around Ile de Ré
We visited Île de Ré as part of a 10 day trip which also included La Rochelle and Nantes. You can read about our experience in beautiful La Rochelle here or my Nantes guide here.
Saint-Martin-de-Ré, Ile de Ré
La Rochelle by plane
The closest airport is La Rochelle-Ile de Ré - just 7 kms from Sablenceaux and Rivedoux-Plage, the nearest villages as you cross the bridge. For reference, the airport is 15 kms from La Flotte, where we were based.
There are direct flights with Ryanair from some European cities, including Dublin and Cork. You can also fly to Nantes Atlantique (138 kms to the north) or Bordeaux Mérignac (196 kms to the south) and take the train or hire a car.
If you don't have plans to explore any further afield, there is very little need for a car on Ile-de-Ré and many parts of the island are off-limits to traffic - priority is given to pedestrians and cyclists. It's also worth noting that parking is limited and often very expensive.
The public transport system is pretty good, and most people cycle as it's the most efficient way of getting from A to B. It's also worth noting that there is a hefty charge to cross the bridge from La Rochelle - €16 from June to September and €8 for the rest of the year.
However, if you do decide to hire a car, one of the best value sites we've used to date is Discover Cars, comparing prices across 700 suppliers and doing all the hard work for you. We've used them on multiple trips and have always gotten good value.
Traveling with a group? Welcome Pickups offer excellent value for money and a reliable airport transfer service. We've used them in multiple countries and the service has been flawless. It might be a better option than hiring a car. Book your transfer here
Ile-de-Ré by public transport
We took the bus from La Rochelle to Ile-de-Re, crossing the iconic arched bridge. There are three options: 150, 151 and 152, depending on what part of the island you're staying in, and it takes approximately 1 hour to get to La Flotte. It's a snip at just €2.50 single and €4.50 return. These three buses also cover the towns and villages across the entire island. As I mentioned above, there is also a free shuttle bus service. Everything you need to know can be found here.
La Rochelle is located on an express regional line which links Nantes to Bordeaux. We flew in and out of Nantes Atlantique as we wanted to tag on a few days there, and took one of the fast trains on both occasions. The journey takes approximately 1 hour 45 minutes with some lovely scenery to admire on the way.
La Rochelle is also just 2.5 hours from Paris by train.
Omio is my go-to site of choice for train bookings: it's user-friendly with a great app, and allows you to compare prices for trains and buses across Europe. Book here.
Bonnes vacances!
Karyn xx
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