Three days in beautiful La Rochelle: a travel guide
- Karyn Farrell
- Jul 31
- 14 min read
Updated: Sep 28
Vieux Port, La Rochelle
We're on the train from Nantes and headed to La Rochelle for the first time. I've always loved train travel, its gentle sound and rhythm as it trundles through the landscape. There's a romance to travelling by train and I've booked a window seat. My nose is pressed to the glass as we whizz past golden fields of hay and perfectly rounded bales; past acres of bright yellow sunflowers which always put a smile on my face; past picturesque villages with dreamy stone cottages and brightly-painted shutters. It's ridiculously scenic and very very French. It's good to be back.
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Contents:
All main points of interest, restaurants and bars featured in this article are pinned on the map above for your convenience
La Rochelle: where to stay
Private terrace, Entre Hôtes, La Rochelle
We arrive at the station and jump in a cab to make the short journey across town to our guesthouse. It's early evening in La Rochelle and the light is hazy and soft. We get our first glimpse of the old port and it's breathtakingly beautiful, its turquoise waters lined with historic buildings and gleaming whitewashed façades.
Vieux Port, La Rochelle
Our home for the next few days is Entre Hôtes, a picture-perfect guesthouse just minutes from the port but hidden away on a quiet side street. Olivier, our host, is warm and gregarious and we like him immediately. He clearly has great pride in his townhouse and it's not hard to see why. It's a beautiful historic home with a leafy courtyard at the back and a beautifully maintained garden.
We step outside and it feels like being in the middle of the countryside. Birds are singing and a gentle breeze rustles the leaves in the trees overhead. We can't hear any traffic at all. He walks us down the path to our 'secret hideaway', as he calls it, a converted wine cave hidden away at the bottom of the garden. He asks us to wait for a moment as he turns on the lights. We push open the door and grin. It's a gorgeous stone cave with a big double bed and a huge bath. There are candles and low lighting and it's all very romantic. But it gets better.
We have our own private entrance and a little terrace at the front with a table and chairs where our breakfast will be served every morning. And then he walks us up some steps to a second private terrace, also just for us. It's surrounded by trees and plants, with sun loungers and a parasol for a lazy siesta. It's a little slice of heaven and we're elated with our choice.
At night, we hear a noisy chorus of cicadas, not a sound I usually associate with cities but one that instantly reminds me of my first trip to rural France when I was nineteen. It's hypnotic and calming.
On our first morning I wake to the sound of birds. It's impossible to believe that we're mere minutes from the lively old port. Already there's heat in the day as I head up to the terrace, taking in the sounds of nature waking up as the sun warms the stones beneath my bare feet. A little robin keeps me company as I sip my coffee. He remains a friend for the next few days. The air is fragrant and fresh and smells like the countryside.
Le petit déjeuner, Entre Hôtes
At 9:30 each morning, Olivier arrives with our breakfast tray. Light dapples through the leaves overhead as we make our way through a delightful feast of yoghurt, fresh fruit, cheese and crusty bread, and a large basket of sweet treats to accompany our coffee. Can there be a nicer way to start the day?
Is La Rochelle worth visiting? A travel guide
Vieux Port, La Rochelle
La Rochelle has all the ingredients for a perfect holiday: a seaside location, a picturesque old town and port, and any number of fantastic bars and restaurants to while away the hours. It's neat and compact, with all key sights of interest within walking distance. It's a dream of a city, an absurdly beautiful maze of narrow streets lined in pristine white limestone buildings with tasteful pastel shutters. There's a good reason why they call it the Ville Blanche.
Though it's certainly popular with tourists, in particular French tourists, it never felt overwhelming or overrun with people, even in July. It has a chilled-out seaside vibe with plenty of atmosphere, and the residents are warm and friendly. It ticked every box for me.
What to do in La Rochelle: our top picks
Explore the streets of the old town on foot:
It's our first evening in La Rochelle and we're strolling around the old town, around Rue de l'Escale. It's balmy and the late evening sun casts a golden glow on the buildings that stops me in my tracks. There's beauty everywhere, from classical sculptures surrounding elegant windows, to delicate pink and purple flowers which add a pop of colour to residential doorways.
Plaques on the walls note streets dating to the early 17th and 18th centuries, and the ancient arcaded walkways remind us of Bologna, though a more muted pastel version. It's a pleasure of a city to explore on foot and away from the hustle and bustle of the Vieux Port, it's lively and buzzy but not crowded. We fall in love with it straight away.
It's July and temperatures hover around the late twenties but the sea breeze provides some relief. It's perfect sightseeing weather, with endless blue skies and big fluffy clouds, the perfect backdrop for photos, and the arcaded walkways provide some welcoming shelter, if needed. In the evening it's pleasantly cooler - perfect for enjoying an aperitif or a meal on one of its street-side tables.
Shopping:
Plein Soleil is great for gifts and vinyl. It's an independent store with a friendly owner stocking prints, objets d'art, homewares and most importantly for us, a huge collection of vinyl. We could've done some serious damage here if we hadn't had to consider taking our purchases back on the plane, but we did buy a few things. He stocks an incredible collection of jazz records, some quite rare, and they're very reasonably priced too. I bought all my holiday presents here.
Plein Soleil, 1 Rue Saint-Nicolas
Luminescence at Cathédrale Saint-Louis
We end our stay in La Rochelle with an extraordinary nighttime experience at the cathedral - an immersive visual and musical spectacle. It's 11pm at night as we take our seats and I have no idea what to expect. And then it starts with a bang as light projections dance across the Gothic architecture, illuminating its features in a sumptuous feast of colour and sound.
At weekends, the show is enhanced by the presence of a live choir, whose haunting voices fill the room as stars explode over our heads. It's incredibly moving and emotive, and so beautifully executed. An absolute must-visit if you're in La Rochelle before the end of August. There are some videos on my Instagram stories here if want to get a sense of the full experience.
Luminescence, Cathédrale Saint-Louis, Pl. de Verdun
Le Vieux Port (Old Port) and Le Gabut:
Vieux Port, La Rochelle
La Rochelle has a rich maritime history as one of France's most significant seaports from the 14th to the 17th century. It's unsurprising, therefore, that the skyline is punctuated by many colourful lighthouses, including one unusual example on Quai Valin which doesn't stand alone but slots into the existing architecture of the street.
Phare Vert du Quai Valin, Vieux Port, La Rochelle
But the most famous example is the Tour de la Laterne, a not at all obvious example of a lighthouse, with its conical roof studded with gargoyles. It was the harbour's original lighthouse making it one of the oldest in Europe, and the oldest on the Atlantic coast.
Tour de la Laterne
It's one of the famous three towers of La Rochelle, alongside the Tour de la Chaine and the Tour Saint-Nicolas, whose imposing structures dominate the skyline of this photogenic port. A visit to at least one of these towers should be on every visitors must-see list. Even if you're not remotely interested in history, the terraces at the top offer some of the most spectacular panoramas of the city and sea - one of the highlights of the trip for me.
Towers of la Rochelle
It's our last day in La Rochelle and we squeeze in a visit to both the Laterne and Chaine towers (Saint-Nicolas is temporarily closed as of July 2025...) From the 17th to the 19th centuries the Laterne tower served as a prison. Today, its walls quite literally offer us a fascinating glimpse into its social and political history, featuring prisoner graffiti from three centuries. Many of these prisoners had been crew members of enemy ships and were incarcerated here upon capture.
But when we talk about graffiti, I don't just mean names and dates scrawled across the wall. Some of these prisoners were clearly artistic and carved figures, animals. ships, crosses and rudimentary self-portraits into the walls. We spotted the signature of an Irishman who'd been incarcerated there from 1790 - David from Waterford.
Graffiti, Tour de la Laterne
My favourite was a relief carving of a steam train, so accurately rendered that one could identify its exact make and model. I found these artworks and personal insights profoundly affecting.
Graffiti, Tour de la Laterne
We make our way gradually up the 158 steps to the top of the tower. Thankfully the staircase is wide with openings at regular intervals as we climb so it never feels claustrophobic. There's a spacious 360 degree viewing platform on the lower terrace, and a much narrower platform on the top level - there's just about enough space for two people to pass each other and it can get quite windy up here so vertigo-suffers beware.
View from terrace, Tour de la Laterne
But oh my, those views!! As city views go, La Rochelle takes some beating. It's an extraordinarily picturesque city at ground level but this is even more evident from above. Gaps in the turret frame some of the most postcard-perfect views of its gleaming white buildings and red roofs contrasting beautifully with the turquoise water.
On one side, the original line of the old city's fortifications is visible, from the Chaine tower to Saint-Nicolas. And of course from the Chaine tower, the perspective is a little different, with a birds-eye view of Saint-Nicolas and Laterne. It's the best way to fully experience the beauty of the city from all angles. Unmissable!
Opening hours and practical info here. Tickets are €9.50 for an adult and covers same-day entry to all towers.
Le Gabut
Le Gabut, La Rochelle
To the south-east of the port we stumble upon the colourful Le Gabut district, its brightly-painted wooden houses standing in stark contrast to the muted tones in the rest of the city. Once a fishing district, these wooden houses reflect the area’s historic trading links with Scandinavia. It’s also famous as city's street art zone. These days, this area is buzzing with activity and chock-full of bars and restaurants.
An alternative city viewpoint on the Big Wheel
For a different perspective, we head for the Big Wheel, La Grande Roue de La Rochelle. Visible from everywhere in the city, it’s become an iconic landmark. A snip at just €6 a trip, it offers unparalleled panoramic views of the red rooftops of the city, and the vast expanse of sea. And even though I don’t have much of a head for heights, I found it really relaxing.
La Grande Roue de La Rochelle, Pl. du Commandant de la Motte Rouge
Aquarium
Aquarium, La Rochelle
Whenever I’ve asked someone what they’d recommend about La Rochelle, they mention the Aquarium. It was inevitable that we’d have to visit and I’m so happy we did. One of the largest private aquariums in Europe, it’s particularly impressive, home to more than 12,000 marine animals, including 600 different species and a remarkable 20 different species of shark.
We hop in the elevator and descend in a ‘submarine’ to what feels like the bottom of the ocean. Immediately we’re plunged into a marine environment, surrounded on all sides by water. I particularly loved the seahorses, and watching the hypnotic ballet of the jellyfish as they gracefully move in synchronised motions through the water - a beautiful sight to witness. There are some videos of their graceful dance on my Instagram stories here Oh, and we also found Nemo, AKA the clownfish.
Ticket prices: €18.50 per adult – full pricing details here
La Rochelle Aquarium, Quai Louis Prunier
Catch a sunset on La Plage de la Concurrence
On a recommendation from our host Olivier, we hastily scoff an early dinner and head for the city beach to the south-west of the city to watch the sun go down. It’s a popular spot with locals and they’ve come prepared, with picnic blankets, snacks and bottles of wine or beer. It’s a soft sandy beach and spotlessly clean, as we’ve come to notice about French beaches. I put this down to a Smoke-Free policy which people clearly adhere to.
Even though it's a dull evening, we're still treated to a beautiful but understated light show, in soft pinks and purples.
Insider tip:
For a drink with a view, head west along the pier from the beach along the tree-lined walkway until you come to a bar with a terrace at the casino. It feels like a members-only bar but on a tip from Olivier, we ask if we can have a drink on the terrace. They're friendly and seat us at a waterside-table with panoramic views of the marina and the city lights beyond. Despite the location, it's pretty reasonably priced too. We sip our drinks, listening to the gentle lapping of the waves.
Le café des Sports & Casino Barrière La Rochelle, 15 All. du Mail
Eating and drinking in La Rochelle: our top restaurant picks
With over 300 restaurants in this small city, foodies will be spoiled for choice. A good place to start is Rue St Jean du Pérot, a postcard-perfect street of restaurants to the east of the port. or Rue Saint-Nicolas and Place de la Fourche to the west of the port.
And though you may pay a bit more for a sea view, it's worth at least having an aperitif at one of the quay-side tables overlooking the port. Great for people-watching too.
La Rochelle travel guide: restaurants
Our top foodie pick is newcomer to the La Rochelle dining scene, Loma, where we had the most sensational meal of our trip. In fact, it's one of the best dining experiences I've ever had. From start to finish, we're on a winner. The staff are a huge asset - warm and friendly but incredibly professional, knowledgeable and efficient. It's a high-end culinary experience without the price-tag - their Menu Inspiration Gourmande is ridiculously good value at €49.
We start with the juiciest heirloom tomatoes and smoked buffalo mozzarella cream, and a red tuna tartare, followed by the beef fillet and fish of the day, served with Camargue red rice, aubergine and roast tomatoes. Dessert tastes like heaven in a bowl: a tiramisu-style cream is topped with fresh seasonal fruit and crunchy sesame crackers. The flavours and combinations are extraordinary. The wine is extensive with a broad price point - something for all budgets. We choose a local red wine and it's a stunner. 10/10 - I could happily eat here every day for the rest of my life.
Loma, 19 Rue Saint-Nicolas
Another great dinner option is Restaurant Annette, a modern bistro on a quiet, pretty street with a young and enthusiastic staff. We start with some bubbles as we consider the menu. An excellent glass of Crémant is just €7 - we're off to a positive start.
Restaurant Annette, La Rochelle
Like most good restaurants, their menu is seasonal and changes regularly. It's modern French cuisine with an Asian twist - think carrots in spiced yoghurt, tempura prawns and curried mussels. Sounds strange but tastes fantastic. On the French side, the steak is served with a bowl of creamy polenta with Parmesan - divine. For wine, we opt for a Gamay. 'Great choice', our server says. 'I love this one. It's light and perfect for summer'. We concur.
A poached pear with crumble and lavender ice-cream is the perfect end to a meal. A great little spot.
Restaurant Annette, 14 Rue Bletterie
We also liked:
Prao, a trendy hipster restaurant with stripped brick walls and good-value set menus for lunch and dinner. Caters for vegetarians and vegans. Booking is recommended.
Prao, 10 Rue Saint-Nicolas
Au Détour: for delectable galettes and crêpes on one of the most picturesque streets in the city - it was the sea-blue shutters that drew me to their door in the first instance. Staff are incredibly nice too.
Au Détour, 63 Rue St Jean du Pérot, 17000 La Rochelle, France
Le Panier de Crabe
The jury was out as to whether or not to include this one. It's a hugely popular local institution on Place de la Fourche, with reservations only by phone or in person so it attracts a lot of walk-in business. Which of course means queues. We're seated pretty quickly and while service is friendly, it's a little chaotic and slow.
Le Panier de Crabe, La Rochelle
Seafood is king here so we order a mixed seafood platter on ice with crab, prawns and whelk. We soon realise how much work this involves and begin to regret our choice, though I have to say the prawns were deliciously fresh when we eventually got to eat them. For those who aren't afraid to get stuck in, then this is the place to come.
Le Panier de Crabe, 9 Rue de la Fourche
Bars we liked:
Our favourite is Au Chabrot, a chilled-out wine bar on Rue Saint-Nicolas. We pop in one sunny Friday evening for a glass of wine, sucked in by the pretty street with outside tables, a friendly welcome and a great selection of wine by the glass or bottle. Suddenly two hours have passed and we're a little buzzed, or as the French would put it, un peu burré.
It's a classy but unpretentious spot and the manager is happy to chat all things wine with us. It's a hot evening so I opt for a very local Rosé. It's pale, almost like a white wine, and tastes wonderful. A hard spot to leave.
Au Chabrot, 4 Rue Saint-Nicolas
Next door is the iconic La Guignette, a cavernous spot beloved of students and young hipsters. It's been around since the 1930s and is always busy, with people crowded around barrels outside on the street.
La Guignette, La Rochelle
It's described as a wine bar but really it's most famous for 'Guignette'. This is what I'm offered in place of a sparkling wine or a Crémant. It's a sweet, fruity and fizzy alcoholic drink made on site which comes in a number of different flavours like vanilla, apricot, citrus and red fruits. It's sold cheaply as a small glass, small bottle or large bottle. All around us, groups of friends are making their way through large bottle after large bottle. It's pretty tasty but one was enough. I can't imagine drinking it all night.
Bizarrely enough, the bar closes at 9pm every night.
 La Cave de la Guignette, 8 Rue Saint-Nicolas
But fear not, just around the corner you'll find l'Imprévu which opens late every night. It has tables on the cobbled streets of Place de la Fourche but also has a private courtyard sheltered by an ornate glass roof. They're known for their cocktails but also have a decent selection of wines by the glass.
l'Imprévu, 1 bis Rue de la Fourche
How to get to La Rochelle
We visited La Rochelle as part of a 10 day trip which also included Île de Ré and Nantes.
La Rochelle by plane
There are direct flights with Ryanair from some European cities, including Dublin and Cork, to the small airport at La Rochelle-Ile de Ré, a mere 5kms from the old town with regular shuttle access to the centre. You can also fly to Nantes Atlantique (138 kms to the north) or Bordeaux Mérignac (196 kms to the south) and take the train or hire a car.
If you don't have plans to explore any further afield, there is very little need for a car in La Rochelle, especially as much of the old town is off-limits to traffic and parking is limited.
However, if you do decide to hire a car, one of the best value sites we've used to date is Discover Cars, comparing prices across 700 suppliers and doing all the hard work for you. We've used them on multiple trips and have always gotten good value.
Traveling with a group? Welcome Pickups offer excellent value for money and a reliable airport transfer service. We've used them in multiple countries and the service has been flawless. Book your transfer here
La Rochelle by train
La Rochelle is located on an express regional line which links Nantes to Bordeaux. We flew in and out of Nantes Atlantique as we wanted to tag on a few days there, and took one of the fast trains on both occasions. The journey takes approximately 1 hour 45 minutes with some lovely scenery to admire on the way.
La Rochelle is also just 2.5 hours from Paris by train.
Omio is my go-to site of choice for train bookings: it's user-friendly with a great app, and allows you to compare prices for trains and buses across Europe. Book here.
Bonnes vacances!
Karyn xx