Oudegracht, Utrecht
It's a chilly January afternoon in Utrecht. The bare branches of trees lining the canal are reflected in the water, and the sky emits a pale diffused wintry light. The Oudegracht (old canal) is the beating heart of the city and runs through its centre, lined with colourful townhouses and striking gabled architecture. Buildings are beautifully maintained, retaining their traditional facades, and in short, it's postcard-perfect, like a fairytale. We're instantly entranced.
Utrecht is an attractive city at any time of day but particularly at dusk, when the city lights pop on, twinkling beautifully on the waters of the canal. It's a pleasure to stroll its pretty streets and there's something romantic about being here in winter, wrapped up warm against the cold, and peering in the steamed-up windows of its many cafés and bars. Resistance is futile with signs inviting you inside to warm up with a gluhwein or spiced rum. Being a sucker for those cosy hygge vibes, my rubber arm was easily twisted...
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Is Utrecht worth visiting?
100% yes. Often touted as an alternative to Amsterdam, it's hip and cool without being pretentious, and visitors can enjoy its vibey canalside culture without the masses of tourists. Neat, compact and beautifully preserved, it's small enough to cover all the main sights in a weekend. There's an easy-going attitude here, yet everything is efficient and works well. It's both pedestrian and bike-friendly and incredibly easy to get around.
It's a mecca for foodies with some truly excellent restaurants and wine bars, and a hip café culture - coffee is a big deal here and they take it very seriously. You'll also be spoiled for choice with trendy craft breweries and old-school bars with impressive arrays of beers.
It's a pricey city (in line with Dublin or London) but worth noting that there is good value to be had, and you can still get a decent glass of wine in a bar for around €5.
What to do in Utrecht: getting the best out of your city break
Your launchpad for explorations is the Oudegracht, the vibrant central focal point of the city. We were struck by the unusual double-level layout with cobbled paths running at street level above a second path at canal level. Upon further reading, this makes complete sense. During the Middle Ages, shipyards were constructed at water level to receive goods arriving by canal. Tunnels had been built under the street leading directly to the storage cellars of the canal houses. This facilitated the easy movement of goods to the houses. Genius.
These days, the street level is lined with cool bars, cafés and quirky boutiques, while at canal level you'll find artist studios and atmospheric spots for a bite or a drink. In summer, the canal side teems with people enjoying the al-fresco vibes but in the depths of January gloom, all was quiet down below. Be sure to explore the many little side streets off the canal - there are lots of gorgeous book and record shops, artisan food spots, vintage clothes boutiques and delectable homeware stores in which to spend all your money.
Looming over the city is the unmistakable Dom Tower, the tallest church spire in the Netherlands. Walk beneath its arch in late evening to see its vault fully illuminated, highlighting all of its intricate detailing. On a foggy winter's day, it was seriously atmospheric.
TivoliVredenburg
TivoliVredenburg
This striking futuristic construction stands in stark contrast to the traditional gabled architecture of the Medieval city centre but I adore it. This is the city's cutting-edge concert hall and contemporary music complex with several different music venues, all uniquely designed, under one roof, as well as a restaurant and café bar. Expect anything from rock and jazz to classical and world music.
Sadly the venue was running a reduced schedule over the New Year period so we didn't get to experience a live concert in one of its fabulous spaces. Just means we'll have to come back. Keep an eye on their schedule when planning your visit - you never know what your trip might coincide with.
TivoliVredenburg, Vredenburgkade 11, 3511 WC Utrecht, Netherlands
Domkerk
Domkerk, Utrecht
Day two begins with a visit to Domkerk, the imposing Gothic cathedral on Domplein. In the first century AD, Utrecht was under the control of the Roman Empire. A fortress was built on this site, the archaeological remains of which can be viewed by guided tour at DOMunder. There has been a church on this site since the 11th century, while the Gothic cathedral we see today dates to the 13th.
It was fascinating to learn that the cathedral was once joined to the Dom Tower on the opposite side of the square. The vast space that now lies between them was once the central core of the church, destroyed by a storm in 1674. On Domplein today, look out for the stone markers which denote where the walls and columns of the nave would have stood prior to its collapse.
Inside, our eyes are drawn upwards by the soaring vertical columns to the magnificent vaulted ceiling. Also of note are the beautiful stained glass windows. Domkerk is free to visit but donations are gratefully accepted.
Domkerk, Achter de Dom 1, 3512 JN Utrecht
Wilhelmina city park
Wilhelminapark, Utrecht
Utrecht is a city best explored on foot or by bike, and a blue sky and some much-needed wintry sunshine was all the encouragement needed to get ourselves some wheels. Two wheels, of course. There are quite a few bike rentals spots in the old town, but our hotel also offered a bike-rental service. There's something very cool and European about those upright city bikes, and the flat terrain and cycle-friendly infrastructure makes any journey a breeze. Any residual Christmas cobwebs were quickly blown away.
Wilhelminapark is a popular green space to the east of the city, about 2 kms from the main centre. Surrounded by beautiful old trees, a large pond and fountain stands at its centre. We paused to watch as a family of geese strolled nonchalantly across the bike path. The park is home to a wide variety of birds and wildlife and it seems they have right-of-way here. Very sweet.
As we followed the path around the outer perimeter, we gaped open-mouthed at the magnificent townhouses and mansions on its outskirts, tastefully decorated in all their festive glory.
Wilhelminapark, Utrecht
Rietveld Schröder House
Rietveld Schröder House, Utrecht
On the eastern side of the park, it's worth a visit to the iconic Rietveld Schröder House, a modernist masterpiece in the De Stijl style. With its clean geometry and use of bright primary colours to delineate space, it could be best described as a 3-D Mondrian painting. The house was designed in 1924 by Dutch architect Gerrit Rietveld, commissioned by Truus Schröder-Schräder as a family home for her and her three children.
What's really interesting about its history is the level of collaboration between Rietveld and Schröder. She was no passive client and her input hugely influenced the design and functionality of the house as we see it today. She desired an open-plan space, preferably without walls, and the design solutions they came up with were ingenious for this small house.
Flexible spatial arrangements using sliding panels meant that spaces could be open-plan by day and closed off into separate bedrooms by night. Clever storage units are hidden from sight, and there is little distinction between interior and exterior spaces. The best example of this is the so-called 'disappearing window' in the corner of the upstairs room. Hinged to stand at 90 degree angles, the windows completely open outwards, offering uninterrupted views of the surrounding countryside and blurring the boundaries between inside and out.
The house was occupied for sixty years - Truus Schröder lived here until her death in 1985. Visits are by self-guided tour only, with a limit of 12 people allowed in the house at any one time. Adult tickets are pricey at €19.
Rietveld Schröder House, Prins Hendriklaan 50, 3583 EP Utrecht
Dom Tower / Domtoren
Domtoren, Utrecht
The Dom Tower is the most recognisable symbol of the city of Utrecht. Standing at 112 metres, it's the tallest church spire in the Netherlands. Completed in 1382, it has a whopping 465 steps to climb, if you're so inclined. Visits to the tower are by guided tour only and reservations in advance are recommended.
After indulging in a few too many delicious craft beers the evening before, my enthusiasm for the climb had waned somewhat by the morning of day three. But thankfully you don't have to make the ascent in one go - there are a number of stopping points on the way up for some background history. And an opportunity to catch your breath. Of particular interest are the bell towers. On one level, thirteen enormous swinging bells are visible, each with a different name and sound. Combined, they weigh more than 30,000 kilos. Our guide tells us that they are still rung by hand each Sunday, during religious holidays and on special occasions. To give a sense of scale, it takes the combined efforts of 26 people to ring all the bells at the same time.
On the upper level of the tower, 80 metres above the city, we encounter an impressive 50-bell carillon, a musical instrument comprising a series of bells fixed within a frame and controlled by a keyboard. Twice a week, the city of Utrecht is treated to a concert from high in the tower by the resident carillonneur who plays anything from classical pieces to ABBA.
And of course, your reward for making it all the way to the top of the steps is a fabulous 360 degree panorama of the city. Unfortunately, the weather was not on our side, our view somewhat obscured by driving rain, endlessly grey skies and crazy winds.
A stunning display of festive lights was on show throughout our visit in celebration of the tower's reopening after five years of renovations. The creative project showcased 2000 artworks submitted by people of all ages, projected perfectly onto its facade, and visible all across the city from 7 to 11pm each evening. It was truly mesmerising. For a live action glimpse, check out some videos on my Instagram stories here.
Adult tickets: €14.50
Domtoren, Domplein 9, 3512 JC Utrecht
Great places to eat in Utrecht
Visitors to Utrecht will be spoiled for choice when it comes to great places to eat. Asian food is a popular choice, but there are also loads of great tapas spots, and casual wine bar options with sharing plates - my favourite way to eat. Here are my recommendations:
Ruby Rose
Ruby Rose, Utrecht
You can't come to Utrecht without at least stopping for a glass of wine in Ruby Rose. Set within a beautiful Art Nouveau building dating back to 1904, it's the interior that's the real showstopper. Less is certainly not more here - it's all a little bit extra with extravagant wallpaper prints, wildly contrasting patterns on every available surface and an elaborate flower arrangement over the bar. Yet somehow it all works.
We sat at the bar, enjoying the buzzy atmosphere, and ordered a veritable feast to snack on, accompanied by a delicious bottle of Primitivo (€40). Despite being full to capacity, service was friendly and efficient, and the food was consistently great and fairly reasonably priced. Dishes range from €4.50 to €12.
What we had:
Creamy Burrata. A zesty seabass ceviche. Truffle ravioli. Crunchy Iberico ham croquettes with an oozy interior. Gambas mojo. Parmesan fries. Pork belly.
Ruby Rose, Korte Jansstraat 23, 3512 GM Utrecht
Streetfood Club
The Streetfood Club, Utrecht
The Streetfood Club stands next door to the Ruby Rose and is another Utrecht institution. Giving its neigbour a run for its money in terms of lavish décor, the main dining area has a glass ceiling with Art Deco-style geometric designs. Grey and white floor tiles are beautifully complemented by deep green walls, while plants are liberally dotted everywhere. An exotic wall-length mural runs the length of the bar area with tropical jungle prints in shades of pink and green, while wildly clashing soft furnishings are everywhere. It's an Instagrammers dream and utterly fabulous.
We popped in for lunch without a reservation and they managed to squeeze us in at the bar with a great view of the open kitchen. Even on a midweek afternoon the place was buzzing, yet we didn't have to wait too long for our food. We sipped our drinks at the bar and enjoyed the vibrant atmosphere. And I'm happy to report that it's not all style over substance - the food was really great. I opted for a healthy Tuna Pokébowl (€13.50) while M went for the not-quite-so-healthy Philly cheese steak (€12.50). My Pokébowl was packed with fresh avocado and mango, and huge chunks of fresh tuna and other delicious fillings. We washed it down with a good glass of Primitivo (€5) and 2 x glasses of Heineken (€5.80)
It's busy here all the time so reservations are definitely advised.
The Streetfood Club, Janskerkhof 9, 3512 BK Utrecht
Koenraad
The Koenraad was our swankiest meal of the trip - a treat on our last night in the city. It's a trendy bistro-style wine bar offering inspiring and creative dishes, but the setting is cosy and intimate with low lighting, exposed brick-walls and an open fireplace. It's all about the cool, grown-up vibes but not in a pretentious way. Staff are friendly and always willing to help with a recommendation. I have to give a shout-out to Kim who played a blinder, managing multiple tables efficiently and calmly. We found out later that they were short two staff that evening due to illness, but she always kept us in the loop if there was a slight delay. We were unfazed, enjoying two excellent aperitifs and soaking in the vibrant Friday evening atmosphere.
Koenraad is pricier than your average Utrecht restaurant but the quality is top-notch, the presentation exceptional. Here's what we had:
Food:
Lobster croquettes - snack (€12)
Creamy stracciatella with bergamot, chicory and almond - €13
Brioche, oyster mushroom, jalapeño with shaved Hokkaido pumpkin - €12
Grilled seabream with kale and pepper - €24
Dutch flank steak - €38
Fries - €5
Drinks:
Aperitif: Kir Royale - €9 and glass of Pinot Noir - €8
Sparkling water €5.75
Bottle of Sablet Rouge - €47
Tip: prime spot is the table for two in front of the open fire. Request when booking.
Koenraad, Voorstraat 14, 3512 AN Utrecht
Toastable
On a wet and cold New Year's Day, we'd almost given up on finding somewhere open for lunch when Toastable called to us across the canal like a beacon, with its cosy and inviting façade. It immediately felt like a friendly neighbourhood café with a warm and welcoming atmosphere. After two substantial toasties (the clue is in the name...) and two coffees, all was right with the world again.
Tuna melt - €11.50
The Fajita - €12.25
Americano - €3.50
Flat white - €4.40
Toastable, Oudegracht 122, 3511 AW Utrecht
Great bars and cafés in Utrecht
An afternoon's explorations by bike left us feeling both exhilarated and in need of a beer. But fear not, this city boasts a trove of inviting bars to quench that thirst. These were our favourites...
Café de Postillon
Café de Postillon
Café de Postillon is one of the oldest pubs in the city, serving drinks to the inhabitants of Utrecht for over 200 years. Its traditional façade feels unchanged since then, like a remnant of the past with its beautiful multi-paned and stained-glass windows and olde-worlde streetlamps. As darkness falls, it's an alluring sight, standing on a corner overlooking the canal, glowing with life and luring you in.
A curtain hangs in front of the door to preserve the warmth within. Once inside, it felt like the kind of bar to while away an entire evening. It was busy but not packed, the air buzzing with the gentle hum of conversation. Bar staff are chatty and friendly and seem to know almost everyone who comes through the door. Despite the location, it felt less like a tourist hub and more like a local neighbourhood hangout. They have a decent array of craft beer, and a small but well-chosen selection of wines by the glass. Reasonably priced too.
This is everything I want in a bar.
Café de Postillon, Lijnmarkt 50, 3511 KJ Utrecht
Kafé België
Another popular spot with locals and tourists alike is Kafé België, a slightly grungey but cool bar on the Oudegracht. If you are indecisive by nature, this may not be the place for you. With 24 beers on tap, and over a whopping 200 available by bottle, the choice is immense. Staff are friendly and will give you a drop to taste before committing. We tried:
Jupiler - a standard refreshing lager - €3.60
Kamikaze IPA - €4.60
Averbode €5.50
Kafé België, Oudegracht 196, 3511 NR Utrecht
Bar Cava
We ended up in the thick of New Year's Day celebrations here. A local party was in full swing, tunes were banging, and the atmosphere was infectious. Not quite what we'd planned for our first dinner in Utrecht but we soon got into the spirit of it. It's a Spanish-style bar serving Cava, wine and beer, and some casual tapas and Pintxos. We were greeted with two free glasses of bubbles and a friendly Happy New Year. So far so good.
This is not the place to come for a romantic meal for two but it's a fun place to enjoy some cheap-and-cheerful food and wine. In no time, we were waving around sparklers and singing ABBA's Happy New Year with the rest of them. If you can't beat them, join them. Here's what we had:
Manchego €6
Patatas Bravas €6.50
Pimientos de Padron €8.50
Albondigas €7.50
Pintxos Gamba Pil-Pil €3
Bottle Pinot Noir €34
Bar Cava, Ganzenmarkt 12, 3512 GD Utrecht
Twintig
Twintig, Utrecht
How can there be so many of these enticing little bars in one small city? This spot serves food as well as offering twenty beers on tap, twenty wines by the glass and twenty different cocktails (I figure by now you know what Twintig means...) in a casual, welcoming environment. Situated on the corner of a picturesque street, its large windows are perfect for people watching.
Twintig, Ganzenmarkt 20, 3512 GD Utrecht
Café Vortuin
Café Vortuin, Utrecht
We enjoyed a pre-dinner drink here on our last evening. It was a Friday evening and the atmosphere was lively with great tunes playing in the background. In stark contrast to post-work drinks in my beloved hometown, there were no booming or screeching voices to contend with, and we could actually hear each other without bellowing. People here seem to chat at a normal volume, and strangely enough, can still be heard by their companions. What is this strange paradise? I think I need to move here....
Like most places, they have a good selection of craft beers, and two good red wine options by the glass: Montepulciano and Tempranillo, both for under €6, and service is friendly. A cool little spot.
Café Voortuin, Voorstraat 4, 3512 AM Utrecht, Netherlands
The Village Coffee & Music
Coffee culture is a big deal in Utrecht and they take it very seriously. This cool café is a trendy and popular hangout with excellent specialty coffee and pastries. It opens until 6pm every evening.
Village Music and Coffee, Voorstraat 44-46, 3512 AP Utrecht
Where to stay: a cool boutique hotel in Utrecht
Eye Hotel, Utrecht
The boutique Eye Hotel is a comfortable townhouse in the heart of the old town, within walking distance of everything. Décor is pared-back and Scandi-style in this cool design-led hotel, with nicely styled rooms and one of the comfiest beds I've ever slept in. Tones are natural, restful and calm, with a powerful rain-shower in the bathroom, and some fab natural hand and bath products in refillable bottles.
A large window at the foot of our bed offered views of a tree outside - in the mornings I lay in bed and watched small birds flitting in and out through the branches. Breakfast is served in an attractive room with exposed brick walls and windows overlooking the pretty streets beyond. It's Continental style with fresh fruit, granola, yoghurt, eggs, cheese, ham and pastries, and freshly squeezed orange juice. Smoked salmon and bacon are available on request. There's no buffet - instead a tray is brought to your table with a small selection of the above, while coffee comes from a machine and is pretty average.
Breakfast doesn't come cheap at an additional €17 per person per day, though we got a deal by booking direct. While convenient, in hindsight there is better value (and quality) to be gotten elsewhere. My advice - book room-only and eat breakfast in one of the lovely cafés close by.
City bikes can be rented from reception for €17.50 per person per day, or €12.50 for a half-day.
Eye Hotel, Wijde Begijnestraat 1-3, 3512 AW Utrecht
Getting there
Getting to Utrecht is a cinch. Fly to Amsterdam Schipol with Aer Lingus or Ryanair. Trains run directly from the airport to Utrecht Centraal every 20 - 30 minutes and the journey takes approximately 30 minutes. Tickets cost €12 one way. Within an hour of our plane landing, we were walking through the door of the hotel - it's incredibly efficient and convenient.
Happy travelling,
Karyn x
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