Relax & retreat to Ireland's hidden heartlands: why Longford is worth visiting
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A relaxing spa day surrounded by nature
A soft drizzle gently tickles my face as I float weightlessly in the outdoor pool. Birds sing sweetly, darting in and out of the trees overhead, and the atmosphere is fresh; fragrant with the earthy smells of nature. There's a residual warmth in the air and a luxurious sense of being cut off from the real world, cocooned within the immense forest. Since early morning I've been moving slowly from sauna to pool to steam room, and back to the pool again. There's no schedule or agenda - just a day entirely devoted to self-care and relaxation.
Welcome to the Aqua Sana Forest Spa in the heart of the Irish midlands. Though it sits on the Center Parcs estate, the spa is open to day visitors, with daily spa packages starting from €99. And so at 9:30am one sunny Autumn day, I've arrived with two friends in tow for a day of R&R. We made a decision recently that, instead of buying presents for each other at Christmas, we will treat ourselves to an experience during the year instead. Something we can all enjoy but most importantly, the dedication of a day or two for quality time away together. Last year we spent two nights in Cabu by the Lakes in Co. Cavan. This time we've opted for Co. Longford, and a cosy cottage in the countryside, a 20 minute drive from the spa.
Cabu cabins by the lake Cavan
Something to know about me - I'm notoriously bad at relaxing. Years and years of practicing yoga, and the stillness and quieting of the mind aspect still does not come easily to me. While moving through sequences, I'm focused and in the moment but as the time comes to slow down and breathe, my attention wanders back to life-admin and to-do lists. Even on holidays I find it hard to wind down and switch off. FOMO looms large as my mind fills with things that I simply must see and do. And yet here I am in a day spa with absolutely nothing on the agenda but relaxation. Can I do it? It turns out that in the right environment, I absolutely can.
The Aqua Sana forest spa offers a choice of 21 options to enjoy, from hydrotherapy to thermal and relaxation experiences. With two saunas, three steam rooms (salt, volcanic and alpine), an outdoor pool, hot tub and various relaxation pods, not to mention those calming spa scents, it doesn't take long before I feel my shoulders drop, and the tension seep from my body.
NB: photography is obviously not permitted within the spa area itself so you'll have to check out their website for images of the facilities
Nestled among 400 acres of forest, nature is front and centre, with floor-to-ceiling windows revealing a vast expanse of trees. The Nordic Sauna is a case in point - a Scandinavian-inspired sauna with two entirely glass walls, blurring the boundary between indoors and outdoors. And though the heat can be extremely intense, psychologically I found it easier to breathe through it while looking out at the trees.
Moving from hot to cold felt like a shock to the system first thing in the morning. As the cold water hits my overheated post-sauna body, my friends locate me by my shrieks which echo across the Volcanic Steam shower area. But I'm surprised at how quickly my body adapts throughout the day, and by late afternoon I find myself standing in the Ice Cave, rubbing handfuls of ice all over my face and body without flinching. Newbies to the spa regard me with respect, like I'm some kind of badass.
A full-day allows plenty of time to enjoy all of the amenities on offer at a leisurely pace. My preferred itinerary: Nordic Spa, followed by a 20-minute session in one of the three steam rooms (Alpine was my favourite). Though the heat can be intense, the three different steam experiences are very beneficial for relaxing muscles, encouraging deeper breathing and in general being a very grounding and calming experience for mind and body.
Then, if you can bear it, a blast of ice to boost circulation, and a wander through the forest in a fluffy bathrobe to one of the outdoor pods for complete immersion in nature. If it's a bit chilly, the Scandinavian Snug is a perfect alternative: a cosy wooden lodge piled high with cushions and blankets, tailor-made for lounging.
A dip in the outdoor pool is an essential part of the experience, and the powerful jets literally pummeled the tension out of my neck, back and shoulders. We end the day on heated loungers in the Sweet Slumber room, and I'm out for the count in minutes in the Deep Relax space, wrapped in blankets and rocking gently on a waterbed. I defy you to stay awake for longer than five minutes. After a full day, I felt all the benefits of slowing down and connecting with nature. Tensions had melted away, my mind felt clear and calm, and I slept like a log that night.
To get a sense of the full scale of the spa experience, you can view their map here Spa treatments incur an additional charge and can be booked in advance or on the day. See the full range of options here.
Aqua Sana Forest Spa, Center Parcs Longford Forest, Newcastle Road, Newcastle, Ballymahon, Co. Longford
Where to stay in Longford: a charming cottage in the countryside
After a luxuriously relaxing day at the spa, we head to our lodgings for the next two nights - a charmingly picturesque cottage in the countryside. A far more affordable option than staying in Center Parcs itself, and with all the advantages of self-catering accommodation, the cottage is pretty as a picture: whitewashed and gleaming with a brightly painted front door.
There are three cottages in total on a circular green, surrounded by trees, each with three bedrooms: one double, one twin and one single. Each has a rustic country farmhouse vibe with wooden floors and furniture, and an open fire. Ours is cosy and comfortable with a well-stocked kitchen, a large dining table, and a decking area with tables and chairs at the back for some al-fresco dining. We crack open some wine, pile our plates high with cheese, olives and antipasti, and enjoy the silence of our rural surroundings.
It's a peaceful place in a great location - less than 10 mins from Longford town, a 30 minute drive from the spa at Center Parcs and in close proximity to some wonderful forest and lake walks. Balmy evenings meant sleeping each night with the windows wide open. I love waking up in the morning to the sound of birds, and stargazing at night over deep-black skies.
Claire, our host, was very helpful and gave us some great recommendations for food in the area - see below. It's unspoiled and untouristy, and an ideal place to get away from it all for a couple of days. A very affordable option too.
Longford Holiday Red Rose Cottage, Ennybegs, Killoe, Co Longford
Eating and Drinking in the area: Longford and Roscommon options
A vibrant food scene is another reason why Longford and the midlands are worth visiting. There are countless great bars and restaurants in this area, many less than a 20-minute drive away. We have it on good authority that Begley's serves a great pint of Guinness, and pop in on our way back from dinner.
Begley's Bar in the tiny village of Enybegs is a local institution. An old-school pub popular with locals, it's not far from the cottage, and walkable if you were so inclined, though the country road is dimly lit. It's relatively quiet when we first arrive but by 10:30pm it's positively buzzing. Local residents have been attending a game of bingo and a steady stream quickly fills the pub.
Signs proudly announce that it was the 2024 winner of the All Ireland Pub of the Year awards, though I'm not entirely sure what makes it so. It's a great pint of Guinness for sure but as pubs go, it struck me as being entirely unremarkable. I was far more impressed by the atmosphere in Keenan's in Tarmonbarry.
Begley's Bar, 21 Crannlur, Enybegs, Killoe, Co. Longford, N39 HC82
Keenan's Hotel Bar & Restaurant, Tarmonbarry
Keenan's is an iconic family-run restaurant on the Roscommon side of the river Shannon. Highly recommended by Claire, our host at the cottage, we booked a table for dinner on the last night of our trip. And boy am I glad that I made a reservation. On this particular Friday evening, the river is lined with cars, and the restaurant and bar is jammed to the rafters.
It's not hard to see why it's so popular. Picturesque location aside, this is everything I want in a gastropub - low lighting, a cosy and inviting atmosphere, an exciting menu, an interesting wine list and friendly staff. Keenan's ticks all the boxes with snugs and booths for intimate conversations, and comfortable leather banquettes in the dining area. The décor is fun and full of character, retaining much of its original signage. Walls are lined with old books and and quirky paraphernalia.
The menu is as you would expect for a gastropub including burgers, steak sandwiches, fish and chips, seafood and fish,
with a number of vegetarian options available too. It's hearty fare with large portions so arrive hungry. Chicken and Chorizo Pappardelle was particularly tasty, while a dish of al-dente broccoli and pak-choi elevated a side of greens to something worthier. The small wine list is also a pleasant surprise and a step beyond the usual suspects, including a smooth and moreish Portuguese Douro (a snip at €34), a Ripasso and a Nebbiolo. Reasonaly priced as well, with three reds coming in at €40 or less.
Keenan's Hotel Bar & Restaurant, Main Street, Ballytoohey, Tarmonbarry, Co. Roscommon, N39 W968
Next door is the delightful Purple Onion Restaurant and Wine Bar, which doubles as an art gallery. It's also a retailer of wine and artisan food, focusing on independent Irish producers. It's a buzzy little spot with all tables occupied on this Friday night and staff didn't mind us coming in for a nose around the gallery and wine shop. It also runs regular wine tastings so keep an eye on their website or social media for upcoming events.
The Purple Onion Restaurant and Wine Bar, Tarmonbarry, Roscommon, N39 FY94
Gooseberry Cafe, Longford town
Starving after a morning's walk in Derrycassin Woods, we just about make it to Gooseberry Café before the kitchen closes for the evening. Staff are particularly friendly and squeeze us in for one last order, for which we are very grateful. The sourdough ham & cheese toastie is top-notch, served with fries and salad. Coffee is excellent too.
Even though we're the last customers of the day and they are closing up, we never felt rushed to leave. Gus, the owner, even comes over for a chat and to see if we liked our food. Easy to see why they were recently awarded Best Newcomer in the Irish Restaurant Leinster Awards. It's a little gem of a café and one I will definitely pop back to when I'm next in the area.
Gooseberry Cafe, Dublin St, Townparks, Longford, N39 RR98
Ballymahon is experiencing something of a revival, perhaps due to its proximity to Center Parcs. Its pretty main street is lined with cafés, pubs and restaurants, and it's lovely to see so many beautifully maintained traditional shop fronts. Skelly's bar and lounge comes highly recommended and I've earmarked it for my next visit.
On this occasion it's a quick pitstop for me at 11:11 Society, a friendly contemporary café by day and a modern gastro bar in the evening. Indeed, even by 1pm on this Saturday afternoon, people are sipping chilled glasses of wine in the front bar. Tempting as it looks, I'm driving and have to settle for a coffee instead. It's really good and I'm not the only one who thinks so. There's a special guest on the premises. Colin Farrell has also stopped off for coffee, and with his newly shaved head, has managed to go unnoticed. That is until a shriek from a woman alerts the entire café. He's warm and chatty with the waitstaff, and as soon as he leaves, it seems he's the only topic of conversation in town.
11:11 Society, Main St, Ballymahon, Co. Longford, N39 W1K2
What to see and do in the area: Longford
Derrycassin Woods walk, Longford
It's a glorious sunny day with an endless blue sky and huge fluffy clouds - perfect conditions for the Derrycassin Woodland walk. The location is a scenic one, on the banks of Lough Gowna, with a choice of three trails to explore, from 1.25 to 3.5kms. The Nature Trail is the shortest at just 30 minutes' duration, waymarked by blue arrows.
The Walled Garden Walk takes about 45 minutes: signposted with red arrows and passing the ruins of a walled garden. The woods were once part of a larger estate which included the 18th century Derrycassin House, but sadly the walled garden is the only visible remnant today.
We set off on the Avenue Walk, the longest trail at 3.5kms. It's particularly scenic and relatively flat, with a short uphill section towards the end. A track runs parallel to the lake shore for a time, with gaps in the trees revealing expansive views across Lough Gowna.
The estate is a hub of biodiversity with a wide variety of tree species and wild flowers to admire as you stroll. I'm struck by the number of butterflies flitting across our paths, and the chorus of birdsong that accompanies us on our way. We meet few people on our visit and it feels like one of the midlands' best-kept secrets.
Also worth visiting in Longford:
Abbeyshrule village and monastery
Abbeyshrule is a pretty village in south County Longford, a short drive from the spa at Center Parcs. With a picturesque location between the River Inny and the Royal Canal, it's home to one of Ireland's earliest Cistercian monasteries, dating back to 1150.
Cloondara
This tranquil and postcard-pretty harbour village is worth the short detour from Tarmonbarry. With a picturesque location at the confluence of the Royal Canal and the River Shannon, it marks the westernmost point of the Royal Canal Greenway, a 130km flat, off-road trail that runs from Maynooth in Kildare in the east of the country. It also offers access to the Shannon Blueway, over 100 km of trails across the waters and riverbanks of the Shannon.
The horseshoe arch of Richmond Bridge beautifully frames a view of Richmond Harbour, the buzzy focal point of the village, its banks lined with colourful barges and boats.
At the end of a few days in the region, I feel both relaxed and invigorated. Time spent in nature and with good friends is a great tonic for the soul. Add in some great food and hospitality, and you're on a winner.
I hope you've found something here to inspire further investigation.
Happy travels,
Karyn xx
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