New Adventures in London: King's Cross & beyond
- Karyn Farrell
- 2 hours ago
- 12 min read
It's Springtime in London and we're headed to King's Cross, our base for the next few days. This time I'm en-famille, acting as unofficial city guide for my sister and niece who are visiting the capital for the first time. I've been a regular visitor to London for over twenty years and seeing it through fresh eyes is a welcome new perspective.
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It's not lost on me how London can be overwhelming for a city break, especially as a new visitor. My approach over recent years is to pick one neighbourhood as a base, and to focus all sightseeing from there to avoid burnout. Accepting that it's not possible to see everything in a short city break, I selectively choose two or three things to do every day, and leave the rest of the time for wandering. We adopt the same approach this time. None of the places visited below were more than a 30 minute trip from our hotel on public transport.
Contents:
Why King's Cross is the perfect London base
In the past I've stayed in Kensington in the north-west, and Shoreditch, Whitechapel and Spitalfields to the north-east - all great options. This time around we opt for King's Cross, an ideal neighbourhood from which to explore the city. A once to-be-avoided-at-all-costs area is now lively and cosmopolitan, thanks to a large-scale regeneration project.
A central location to the north of the city is a massive plus, as is the direct connection from Heathrow Airport to King's Cross on the Piccadilly Line. The station is served by no less than six London Underground lines: Circle, Hammersmith & City, Metropolitan, Northern, Piccadilly, and Victoria, making getting around the city very easy. Harry Potter fans will understand the significance of King’s Cross station: the location of the famous platform 9 3/4.
Next door is the striking St Pancras International station. Often described as a masterpiece of 19th century Victorian Gothic architecture, its iconic red brick and terracotta façade stops visitors in their tracks upon leaving the underground. It looks especially atmospheric at night.
Adjacent is the wow-inducing St Pancras London Autograph Collection, a luxurious five-star hotel with a price tag to boot. Each time we pass, we note an extravagant and somewhat ridiculous pink sports car parked at the entrance. A place to see and be seen, it seems.
Fun fact: the iconic video for the Spice Girls' Wannabe hit was shot on their lavish interior staircase.
King's Cross: what's on offer?
Coal Drops Yard and Granary Square
Coal Drops Yard opened in 2018 as part of the Kings Cross Central Development Scheme. Cobbled streets and brick arches blend seamlessly with contemporary features to create a vibrant urban space with over fifty independent shops, cafés, bars and restaurants. Beyond Retro is a vast and almost overwhelming warehouse of vintage garb with everything priced at £12. Beyond Retro, Unit 52-54.
The use of public spaces always impresses me in this city. Take Granary Square, for example - a vast open space lined with cafés and restaurants. In the centre are the Granary Square Fountains, spontaneously shooting water upwards from its 1080 jets. A popular attraction for kids (and big kids) during hot summer days, though even on a chilly March day, they were getting stuck in.
Through an arch, one side opens out onto the peaceful Regent’s Canal, home to some colourful houseboats. Over the summer months, a big screen is erected with a designated seating area across the way on the bank. On our last visit, the Wimbledon tournament was being screened, while in the evenings this space is also used for outdoor cinema.
Great dining options in King's Cross
Finding cafes and restaurants to suit your taste and budget is a breeze in King’s Cross and in Coal Drops Yard. With an outstanding variety of world cuisines to choose from, it's home to a branch of one of my all-time favourite Indian restaurants Dishoom. Inspired by the old Irani cafés of Bombay, the food is an absolute stunner. The House Black Daal is one of its signature dishes and a must-order, with black lentils slow-cooked for over twenty four hours in a richly flavoured dark sauce. Also recommended: Chicken Ruby and Mattar Paneer, and there should always be a bowl of smokey Gunpowder Potatoes on the table for sharing.
These days it's a London institution with long queues for dinner to be expected. It's still a puzzle to me why they only take bookings for groups of 6 or more when it's one of the most popular spots to eat in the city. Worth noting that they also offer a cracking and very interesting breakfast and lunch menu too.
Dishoom, Granary Square. 5 Stable St
Great value Italian cuisine at Lina Stores
On a recommendation from a friend, we choose Lina Stores for dinner on our first night in the neighbourhood. Operating as an authentic Italian deli since the 1940s, Lina Stores has a long history in the city as a provider of quality seasonal produce sourced from independent suppliers - already a good sign.
These days, there are branches all over the city. We opt for the Stable St one in nearby Coal Drops Yard. I'm immediately struck by the Wes Anderson vibes with appealing mint green décor and walls lined with booths with little striped canopies and globe lights overhead.
I'm a sucker for Italian food and my standards are high but thankfully it lives up to the hype. First up is some antipasti and Gnudi Fritti are calling my name: fried ricotta & herb dumplings served with a Calabrian chili jam. Three decent sized gnudi arrive on my plate so I offer one to my niece. The response is instantaneous: 'OMG I think that's one of the nicest things I've ever eaten in my life'... I concur.
A pasta course follows of the delicious-sounding Linguine with Amalfi lemon and crab. The verdict: rich and satisfying with just the right amount of chili and some zesty lemon to cut through the heaviness. Burrata and ravioli in a fresh Datterini tomato sauce also gets a thumbs up. So far, so good. We finish with two desserts: creamy pistachio gelato and a punchy passionfruit sorbet, and an excellent affogato. The rich aroma of espresso is tantalising as it's poured over the creamiest Fior di Latte gelato.
A reasonably priced Italian wine list is the icing on the cake, with glasses of a decent Nero d'Avola for £6. Overall, it's a great little spot with friendly staff and it's also great value for money - not a sentence I've uttered too often in London.
Lina Stores Italian Restaurant & Deli, King's Cross, 20 Stable St
Find it here
Authentic Japanese cuisine at Mai Sushi
Mai Sushi is a popular yet understated place just a few minutes from the British Library, at the end of a line of shops and restaurants. While it doesn't look much from the outside, appearances can be deceptive. Step inside and it feels like a mini corner of Japan with forest-green walls adorned with exquisite cherry blossom prints. Upon entering, we spot a counter with huge chunks of fresh fish on ice - a sign of the deliciousness to come.
We order a shareable feast of gyoza and sushi rolls including a Chef's Special of salmon, tuna, seabass, spring onion, masago and avocado. Everything is top-notch but the spicy tuna is the winner in everyone's eyes.
Their USP is the Sushi Boat - a selection of sushi and sashimi served on a giant wooden boat. Ideal for a group feast, there are options from 48 pieces to 63. We stare in wonder as it arrives at the table of a group of film makers across the way. It looks seriously impressive and from their reactions, I imagine it tastes pretty good too. This restaurant is also great value for money.
Mai Sushi, 36-38 Chalton St
Elevated toasties at Morty & Bob's
A casual café/bar/restaurant known for its excellent toasties and cocktails, it has both indoor and outdoor seating on the terrace for some prime people-watching. The food is great and portions are large, but at £12 for a grilled cheese sandwich and £7.50 for parmesan fries, it's a typically pricey London hotspot in a trendy area. But as toasties go, it's an elevated grilled cheese experience with both vintage and young cheddars, their own secret cheese sauce and grilled in buttered sourdough. Yum!
Morty & Bobs, 49, Coal Drops Yard
A sweet start to the day at Aux pains de Papy
Just a short walk from our hotel and King's Cross station, this is our go-to place for coffee and warm flaky pastries every morning. This tiny French bakery has been in operation since 1948 and is hugely popular, specialising in patisserie, viennoiserie, artisanal breads and filled crusty baguettes. With limited seating at a counter with high stools, it mainly operates as a take-way.
Aux pains de Papy, 279 Gray's Inn Rd
Where to stay in King's Cross
House of Toby: A good value family-run hotel in a central location
First impressions matter and we are impressed by the friendly and helpful reception staff on our arrival. This continues throughout our stay: we're greeted with a big smile every morning, and asked how our day was every evening. It's a small, independent family-run hotel and there is a genuine warmth and hospitality to its staff.
We've booked a triple room and it's pretty small, but standard for London. On the plus side, the beds are super-comfortable and the powerful rain-shower is an added bonus. The location is great: see here, within walking distance of King's Cross Station and, as mentioned above, on the Piccadilly Line, providing direct Tube access from Heathrow Airport. It's also worth noting the reasonable check-in and out times: a 1:30pm check-in, which is almost unheard of these days, and a 10:30am check-out. Bonus points: the bar downstairs open until 12 midnight every night.
We bagged ourselves a great deal too: €280 for a triple room for two nights.
House of Toby. 61-65 Swinton St
Other recommendations in the King's Cross area:
Splurge on some boutique five-star luxury at The Megaro Hotel - Kings Cross St Pancras, a design-led hotel with contemporary themed-rooms and careful attention to detail. A talking point in the neighbourhood for its strikingly colourful exterior. 1 Belgrove St, London WC1H 8AB
Enjoy a carefully-curated stay with a Scottish twist at the Gyle Hotel. One of the Megaro Collections, it's a more affordable version of its sister hotel above, located in a beautiful townhouse close to St Pancras station. Décor is the perfect blend of tradition and style, with bright pops of colour and quirky features abound. 16-18 Argyle Square, London WC1H 8AS
Beyond King's Cross: our two-day London itinerary
Mercato Mayfair:
Our first day starts with lunch at Mercato Mayfair, a place best described as a cathedral of food. Literally. Featured on Stanley Tucci's BBC series Searching for Italy, this beautiful deconsecrated church is one of the most happening spots in the city with a huge variety of cuisines on offer across four levels. The setting is stunning with huge stained glass windows over the altar. You'll find a roof garden on the top level. a wine cellar in the basement and some fantastic regional cuisines in between. Italy features strongly with a choice of homemade pasta at Dez Amore or excellent Neapolitan pizza at Fresco.
It's my second time to eat here and it's heartening to see that standards have not dropped with consistently good food across multiple concessions. This time we opt for Pad Thai from Pad Thai House, Ramen from Steamy & Co., and Prawn Tacos from Molo. And just a word to the wise: a gelato from Badiani at the end of your meal is non-negotiable. Order the pistachio - it'll be the best you've ever had. Vivid green swirls of nut cut through the creamiest ice-cream. Best pistachio gelato ever, according to everyone.
Mercato Mayfair, St. Mark's Church, N Audley St, London W1K 6ZA | Tube: Bond Street / Marble Arch
MoCo Museum London
It's my first visit to MoCo, London's modern and contemporary art museum, an engaging place to visit with something for everyone, and a cultural experience for people of all ages and interests. The curators have shied away from the dreaded 'art-speak' which is always welcome. Introductions to the art works are accessible and written in plain English, and this approach is also evident on their website. MoCo is located opposite Marble Arch with great views of the monument from the picture windows on the upper floor.
Jeff Koons' piece takes pride of place in the main ground-floor gallery, and the permanent collection includes work by other icons of the art world including Warhol, Basquiat, Damien Hirst and the illusive Banksy. Best known for his monumental outdoor murals that provoke conversations about society, consumerism, war and authority, it's a treat to get up close and personal with a selection of Banksys on a small scale, including the powerful and moving Girl with Balloon from 2004.
Things get really fun on the lower levels with a series of interactive and multi-sensory installations using light, sound, movement and interaction. Endless Realities is a cool audio/video installation; a trippy room of mirrors, colours and lights. Personal highlights include Daniel Arsham's serene Lunar Garden, and Anthony James' mesmeric Portals, in which he has brilliantly created the illusion of infinite space.
Worth noting: as is the case at most London museums, the entrance fee is pricey at £23, while students and young people pay a whopping £17.90. Only children under 3 go free.
Moco Museum London, 1-4 Marble Arch Tube: Marble Arch
Southbank area:
Hayward Gallery
It's my first visit to the Hayward Gallery at the Southbank Centre. The clue is in the name - running along the South Bank of the Thames, this is one of my favourite parts of London, lined with arts venues, bars and restaurants, the National Theatre and the BFI Southbank cinema with the largest screen in the UK.
The gallery is renowned for showcasing cutting-edge contemporary art in a 'love it or hate it' concrete brutalist building. At the time of my visit, I catch Threads of Life, a monumental exhibition by Chiharu Shiota. An artist best-known for large-scale installations, the show is hauntingly beautiful and quite literally immersive. We are invited to walk through rooms filled by vast webbed structures of woollen thread: a disconcerting experience. From a distance, rooms appear to be ingulfed in a dreamy fog. Within each room are objects of every day life referencing her own personal life experiences. Keys. A door. Beds. Chairs. Dresses. There's something disquieting about these rooms but also something deeply personal.
On the floor below, Yin Xiuzhen's Heart to Heart is a multimedia show in which the artist uses unconventional materials and repurposed everyday objects as a commentary on environmental issues and globalisation.
Both shows run until 3rd May 2026.
Art lovers in London over the summer will be in for a treat. An exciting new show by esteemed sculptor Anish Kapoor opens at the Hayward in June and runs until October. Details and booking here
Worth noting: there's a terrific gift shop on site with a great selection of books, t-shirts, pin badges and objets d'arts. Great for unique pressies.
And as noted above re: MoCo, tickets are pricey at £19 standard. Slightly vague information on concession tickets here
Hayward Gallery, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, London
Foyle's Bookshop
This fantastic bookshop at the Southbank Centre is always worth a visit. As well as an excellent selection of books, some in beautiful hardback editions, it's also a mecca for stationery lovers and those seeking thoughtful and eclectic gifts for friends and family.
Foyle's Bookshop, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, London
London Bridge area:
Borough Market
This historic market in central London was established in 1756 but markets have been operating in some form on this site since the 13th century. These days it's a hive of activity with a dizzying number of stalls, stands, restaurants, bars and shops.
It's a buzzy place to visit, with long queues for some of the more popular places, even at 11am. Furness Food Hut is a case in point, with a massive queue for their famous Bomba Paella. It's not lost on me that while some people are there for the food, others were there purely for content creation, posing and posturing and getting in everyone's way with large dishes of steaming seafood paella with mussels and giant prawns.
Borough Market, London SE1 9AH
Sky Garden
London's highest public garden is one of the few places to visit for free in London but timed-slots need to be reserved a few weeks in advance here. On approach there's usually a big queue but it moves pretty quickly. We take a lift to the 35th floor, ears popping all the way, and emerge to a vast glass and steel terrace with some pretty epic city views.
Across the way is the iconic Shard in all its glory. Our eyes are drawn up the meandering path of the Thames, from Tower Bridge to the east to St Paul's and Southbank to the west. Two lush green gardens bookend the café-bar area and huge comfy couches are dotted across the foyer. Unsurprisingly the drinks are overpriced and staff are nonchalant at best, but none of this matters because of that view.
Sky Garden, The Fenchurch Building (The Walkie-Talkie), 1, Sky Garden Walk
The Fenchurch Building (The Walkie-Talkie)
I've written extensively about London over the past few years in three earlier posts below. In these, you'll find many other recommendations on things to do, where to eat, great bars and also some reasonably priced places to stay in areas such as Kensington, Spitalfields, Tower Bridge and Whitechapel. However, I think King's Cross has been my favourite neighbourhood so far and is probably where I'll choose to stay again next time. The location is a winner but aside from that, there's a calm, chilled-out vibe to this area, and there is far better value to be had than in the other locations we've stayed. King's Cross gets my vote.
Have travelling,
Karyn xx
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