Inishturk: Best islands to visit in Ireland
- Karyn Farrell
- Jun 14
- 12 min read
Updated: Jun 18
Tranaun beach, Inishturk
"It's so green" I exclaim like an overexcited tourist as the Pirate Queen pulls into the port. We're on the top deck of the ferry. The vast expanse of sea shimmers in the late evening sun, its waters turquoise, even on a dull grey day. The first thing that strikes me are the colours. The sea. The brightly painted boats in the harbour. A vivid moss-green which carpets the landscape. It's wild, craggy and cinematic, as if rendered in Technicolour. Or maybe like one of those iconic John Hinde postcards depicting an Ireland from a long time ago. Already I feel my sense of place and time shifting...
Harbour, Inishturk
Contents:
Is Inishturk island worth visiting?
I've arrived with two friends for a weekend on this tiny island off the coast of Mayo - a mere 5 x 2.5 kms . But while it may be small, it punches far above its weight in what it offers for visitors. This is the Wild Atlantic Way at its ruggedly beautiful best: totally unspoiled with pure, clean air, some truly epic scenery and a haven of biodiversity. Crystal-clear water and soft white sand mean its beaches could give the Caribbean a run for its money.
Stone walls, Inishturk
With so many of Ireland's hotspots reaching saturation point during the summer months, Inishturk is embracing a slower brand of eco-tourism. Like most visitors, we leave our car on the mainland and make our way by ferry. We come prepared and board like the islanders, with shopping bags full of food for the weekend ahead. With a population of approximately 56 people, there are few cars on the island, contributing to an overall sense of peace and tranquility. The good news is, it's small enough to cover all the main sights on foot or by bike, if you spend a few days. And I recommend that you do.
View of Croagh Patrick, Inishturk
Inishturk is appealing to tourists without being twee or touristy. You won't find any Aran jumpers or shamrocks here. What you get is a sense of a real living and breathing community, a warm welcome and a slow and seductive pace of life. The silence is all-encompassing, punctuated only by birdsong and occasional bleating of a lamb or sheep. As we sit outside the bar one day, I hear a skylark for the first time. He's a mere speck in the sky above but appears to be putting on a show, swooping and flapping his little wings. But it's the song that draws our attention - a strange atonal trilling and warbling that I'd never heard before. Our trusty Merlin Bird ID app tells us it's a skylark. My first one.
At nighttime, all is still and calm. After just one day, I feel as if my entire nervous system has been rebooted and I realise I've been thinking about absolutely nothing of importance. I'm entirely present in every moment, enjoying the sounds of nature and the extraordinary natural landscape - mindfulness in the best possible sense of the word.
I think this is what we really mean when we talk about wellness. Fresh, clean air. Easily clocking up 20,000 steps per day without even realising. Dips in the sea. A hunger that comes from physical exertion and being outside all day. It's wonderful. It's Inishturk.
Inishturk: best islands in Ireland. What makes it so special?
Aside from its scenic beauty, it's the people that are the island's greatest resource. There's an energy, warmth and vivacity to its inhabitants, and unsurprisingly, a real pride in this most beautiful of islands, eager to show it off to visitors. They're warm and disarmingly friendly. Not in a faux-friendly way because they think that's what tourists want. It's real and inherent in their nature, and part of the reason visitors come back to the island again and again.
After living in Dublin for over 25 years, I've grown accustomed to a world where we don't know our neighbours. Where people don't acknowledge each other on the streets, and we rarely speak to strangers in pubs. It often feels like we've lost the art of conversation. Not so on Inishturk.
Inishturk Community Club
Everyone says hello and wants to know your story and what brought you to the island. Not in a nosey way - it's borne out of genuine curiosity and interest. People sit together in the pub and invite strangers to join them - like life used to be before smartphones.
The Inishturk Community Club is unsurprisingly the hub and heart of the community with a restaurant, bar and shop. After just two days here, we've been welcomed into the fold and start to feel like part of the furniture. There's a palpable sense of connection between people of all ages and backgrounds. In an increasingly divided world, here I'm reminded of the fine threads of humanity that bind us all together and it's a beautiful thing.
Where to stay: Inishturk Island accommodation
Craggy Cottages
Craggy Cottage 1 and 2, Inishturk
We've booked one of the islands' two modular holiday homes: Craggy Cottage 1, set deep in into the landscape but with fabulous sea views from its front porch. We're picked up from the ferry by Joe, a Dublin native who fell in love with the island and made it his home. He tells us that the cottages are managed by Inishturk Community Club and were built a few years ago as a social enterprise with the help of State and local council funding. Up until that point, the only accommodation options were two B&Bs for the entire island. The cottages are a worthy addition and have helped to plug that gap.
Rear view of Craggy Cottages
The ethos of this project is very appealing to me - property building with a social conscious. It's just another example of community spirit on Inishturk. The cottages are lovely, sleeping five per unit, yet reasonably priced with a minimum three-night stay. This is less about making money and more about encouraging visitors to stay a little longer and to enjoy a more meaningful experience on the island - not just dipping in and out for a day.
The cottages are bright, modern and cosy, and still feel brand-spanking new. Beds are ridiculously comfy with soft white linen covers, the kitchen is well-equipped while the dining table in the front porch takes full advantage of those wild Atlantic views.
Mornings have taken on a slower pace here. The silence is broken only by the bleating of sheep in the field across from the cottage. I take my coffee to the bench outside and stare at the sea. There's no-one around. I walk to the bottom of the lane and look down on Portdoon Harbour. It's early in the morning and a fine mist has settled. All is still and quiet. On my way back, I stop to watch a group of lambs bouncing around the field. They're ridiculously cute and I find myself chatting to them every time I pass. I don't have any food so they're not that interested.
Craggy Cottages sleep five (or six if you use the sofa bed) with one double bedroom ensuite and one triple. They've become increasingly popular since their inclusion in the Irish Independent's Indo Fab 50 in 2024 so if you're thinking of visiting over the coming months, be sure to book ahead.
Craggy Cottages, Inishturk, Co. Mayo
What to do and see on Inishturk
Sea stacks, Inishturk
For the next few days we spend a lot of time with Joe. He's warm and friendly and great company, giving us the lowdown on all things Inishturk. We start with "the city" - the most populated area around the harbour (and by populated, I mean a handful of houses) a teashop (open July and August) and a fantastic playground.
"The city", Inishturk harbour
Bird lovers and ornithologists will be in their element here. There are birds everywhere and it's the most prevalent sound as we walk. On our way back to our cottage in the pitch-black one night, we hear a corncrake, an endangered species in Ireland, now mostly found in remote parts of the west. At the time we thought it was frogs - their song is not dissimilar - but later we find out that there is actually a corncrake breeding ground on Inishturk.
In terms of activities, it's all about the great outdoors on Inishturk, exploring the rugged landscape and coastline with jaw-dropping views. There are exceptional beaches with ridiculously clear water, and any number of small inlets for swimming. For walking and hiking enthusiasts, there are two scenic looped walks: the 5 km Lough Coolaknick loop (green arrows) and the more challenging 8 km Mountain Common loop (purple arrows) with access to the iconic sea stacks.
For navigation purposes, it's best to set-off on either route from the pier as the signage is more prevalent at this point, and easier to follow. It's also possible to start and end from Craggy Cottages but it's worth noting that signage is less visible here for the purple route. We took a few wrong turns before finally getting back on track.
Portdoon Harbour
Just a short walk from Craggy Cottages is the natural lagoon of Portdoon, taking its name from the 9th century fort or Dún which overlooks the water. The entrance is so narrow that only small boats and curraghs can gain entrance, but this also means that a natural tidal swimming pool is created at high tide.
Tranaun Beach
Tranaun Beach, Inishturk
There were many 'wow' moments on this trip, but none more so than my first glimpse of Tranaun Beach on a gloriously sunny afternoon. It's a Green Flag beach, awarded as a symbol of environmental excellence. It's renowned for its water quality and I can attest to that. I've never seen waters so clear in Ireland in my life.
Tranaun Beach, Inishturk
Tranaun is on the eastern side of island - a path slopes down from Community Centre. The views on approach are staggering - of turquoise water lapping onto a white sand beach. The coastline is spectacular, its horizon punctuated with the peaks of the Twelve Bens, Mweelrea, the highest point in Connaught, and the iconic mound of Croagh Patrick.
The beauty is dazzling and it makes me gasp. After a rainy start to the day, the sky has cleared and the sun is out. We decide to brave it, strip off and dive straight in. The only other people are tourists, warmly wrapped up in coats and hats. They look at us as if we're insane.
And yes, while it may look like the Caribbean, it still feels like the Atlantic. The initial shock of the cold takes my breath away. But then gradually my body adapts. The sun is warm and there isn't a breeze. It starts to feel almost balmy. I stay in for twenty minutes and dry off in the sun. It's a balm for the soul and I feel energised and reinvigorated. And in need of a pint. Luckily the pub is just at the top of the hill....
Lough Coolaknick loop
Lough Coolaknick, Inishturk
The Lough Coolaknick trail is one of two looped walks on the island. This one is 5 kms in total following mainly a paved or gravel path. It's not too steep or strenuous and suitable for those with a moderate level of fitness. We set off from Craggy Cottages, following the waymarkers with a green arrow on a yellow background.
Even from the early stages, the views are magnificent, particularly as we start to climb a little higher. Our first point of interest is the GAA pitch, often described as 'Ireland's most scenic'. It's hard to disagree - it was carved into the rock, creating a natural amphitheatre which shelters it from the elements.
Ireland's most scenic GAA pitch
I'm intrigued by the notion of a GAA pitch, and a home team on an island of less than 60 people. Joe tells us later that islanders who've moved away come back on occasion to play for the team in inter-island tournaments. He also tells us that the 'Turks' usually win. I'd really love to come back for the next match day.
Lough Coolaknick, Inishturk
The next point of interest is the freshwater mountain lake, Lough Coolaknick, overlooked by Knocklacken Mountain to the north-west. I'm struck by the mirror-sheen of water, and the wild, barren landscape. We haven't met a single person so far and it feels like we're the last people on earth. On top of the mountain we see the remains of a Napoleonic Signal Tower and limekiln. We decide to save the climbing for another day and continue around instead to the cliff's edge, overlooking the ocean. It's windy and wildly beautiful, and there's a bench strategically placed to allow visitors to take advantage of the views.
At the water's edge is an unusual sculptural installation, the Tale of the Tongs, conceived as part of a commemorative project for the Ireland Gathering of 2013. Local stone, glass and stainless steel have been utilised to create a striking ensemble piece which pays homage to the families who have resided on Inishturk over the generations, and those who have left.
Tale of the Tongs references an old tradition. Departing emigrants would take their tongs and a coal and leave them in a family member's or neighbour’s hearth. If they returned, they would take one back. Their family names are represented in glass, and it's a hugely effecting piece, located as it is overlooking the sea. I imagine all those who left over the years, never to return.
As we loop back towards the harbour, it starts to bucket down with rain. We see signs for the Harbour View Tea Room but it's only open during July and August. Pauline, the owner, sees a gang of very wet looking tourists outside and takes pity on us saying, "Come on in. I can give you a cup of tea to take away". And then, as if by magic, Joe appears in his car. He offers us a lift back to the cottages and we gratefully accept.
Trail map for the Lough Coolnaknick loop here
Mountain Loop
Lough Coolaknick, Inishturk
On day two we set off on the 8 km route Mountain Common loop, taking in one of the island's most magnificent viewpoints of the sea stacks. This route is moderate to strenuous in parts with some very steep inclines (the clue is in the name) and at times walking along the steep sides of a mountain with no clear path. Waymarkers for this route are purple arrows on a yellow background but it's worth noting that it's tricky to navigate if you're starting from anywhere other than the pier as signposts are strangely absent at certain points.
We start from Craggy Cottage, going astray on a number of occasions before finally getting back on track. Going in an anti-clockwise direction, it follows much of the same ground as the Lake loop, passing the GAA pitch and heading towards Lough Coolnaknick. It's at this point you need to keep your eyes peeled as the Mountain loop diverts to the left. And then it's all uphill for a time, though the panoramic views across the landscape and its patchwork of fields as you climb are pretty epic.
Sea stacks, Mountain Common loop, Inishturk
While your calves might be crying at this point, the pay-off is the spectacular cliff-top vantage point of the iconic sea stacks: Buachaill Mor and Buachaill Beag. It's very windy so we crouch down and gingerly lean across to see what's happening down below. Waves are crashing against the rocks and despite the grey day, the water still exudes those blue and turquoise hues. The seagulls are really putting on a show for us, swooping and diving and darting in and out of crevices in the cliffs. It's hypnotic.
Trail map for the Mountain Common loop here
Food, Drink and Entertainment on Inishturk
Inishturk Community Club
The Inishturk Community Club is home to a restaurant, bar and shop, and is a constant hive of activity. The bar is cosy and traditional but also has seats outside to enjoy a creamy pint with a view on a warm day. On Sunday, we catch a trad session. There are tourists from Queens, NYC, who are on honeymoon. The band play Rainy Night in Soho by The Pogues in their honor. They ask where we're from. We say Dublin, and they launch into Raglan Road.
After a day of hiking and swimming, we are starving and head to the restaurant, nabbing the prime table in the corner with expansive sea views. Seafood is king here, unsurprisingly, and we opt for a huge feed of locally caught hake, breaded and served with chips and salad. It's delicious.
Restaurant, Inishturk
We stay at the bar until midnight, and know everyone by name at this point. We get the lowdown on island life from Joe and his friends. "No-one locks their doors around here", he tells us. We laugh as he tells us that cars are sometimes viewed as communal property and that keys should always be left in the ignition, or at least on the wheel. "It would be bad manners not to leave your keys" Joe tells us. "Just in case someone needs to get somewhere..."
Last night on Inishturk
And just like that, we say our good byes with a heavy heart. I'm not ready to leave just yet. I'm really taken with this lovely place and wished I'd booked a longer stay. I guess I'll just have to come back again next summer.
How do you get to Inishturk Island?
Ferry ride to Inishturk
Ferries depart daily from Inishturk island from Roonagh Pier , a short distance from Louisburgh, Co. Mayo, a journey of approximately 50 minutes. There are three ferries a day in July and August and two for all other months. Timetable here. Tickets cost €12 one way.
Roonagh Pier is about a 35 minute drive from Westport. And while there are occasional buses connecting Louisburgh to Westport with Bus Eireann (details here), there are no direct public transport options between Westport and Roonagh Pier so you'll need a car or have to take a taxi.
For international visitors, the closest airports are Knock (1.5 hours drive) and Shannon (2.5 hours). Dublin Airport is 3.5 hours drive away.
Happy travels,
Karyn xx
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