Emilia-Romagna & Lombardy Part II: Mantua Travel Guide

This is a wonderful city. It would be worth travelling a thousand miles to see it - Torquato Tasso, 16th century Italian poet on Mantua

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Mantua (Mantova) in Lombardy turns out to be the jewel of our trip and unexpectedly so. We spend three fabulous days here upon leaving Ferrara (part I in separate blog here) and it captivates us immediately. It doesn't attract the same level of tourists as other Italian cities which suited us just fine. No absurd queues to visit sites and no real need for table reservations.

Mantua is the city that has everything: fantastic food, world-renowned art, stunning buildings and churches and to top it all off, it's surrounded by lakes so it also benefits from a spectacularly beautiful location. It really punches above its weight culturally, but unlike in the main tourist hotspots, it's a pleasure to explore at your leisure.

Driving across Ponte Legnano, the fortifications of Palazzo Ducale loom into view, topped by the dome of Sant' Andrea. I gasp as I catch my first glimpse of the city. It's a beauty.

One important thing to note: there are parking restrictions in much of the historic centre so if you have a hire car, you'll need to think about where to leave it overnight. We opt for one of the multistory carparks on the outskirts of the city with a reasonable rate of €8 per day. For car hire with the cheapest rates, we always use Discover Cars, which compares prices across 700 suppliers.

Contents & highlights:

• Where to stay in Mantua

• Food and Drink

• A city of secret passageways: a fun and interactive scavenger hunt

• Unmissable places to visit

All main points of interest, restaurants and bars featured in this article are pinned on the map above for your convenience

Where to stay in Mantua:

Hotel Broletto: a charming hotel with a warm welcome in the historic centre. Selling point: stylish and comfortable rooms at an affordable price.

Via Accademia, 1

Grand Hotel San Lorenzo: Low-key luxury at this elegant hotel in the heart of the historic centre. Selling points: rooftop terrace with panoramic views.

Piazza Concordia, 14

Scaravelli Residenza: Bright, spacious and stylish rooms in a historic building. Recently refurbished with stripped brick, exposed beams and wooden floors. Worth noting: Bar Caravatti, one of the city's oldest and most iconic bars is just a few doors away.

Portici, Via Broletto, 22

Cà Uberti Home Boutique: A tastefully renovated historical palazzo on one of Mantua's most beautiful squares

Piazza Sordello, 13

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Mantua Travel Guide: Food and drink:

We enjoy our first meal in Mantua in Osteria delle Erbe. Outdoor tables shaded with umbrellas are a prime spot for people-watching on this lovely square. We eat here twice: once for lunch and once for dinner, tucking into bowls of the local specialty, tortelli di zucca (pumpkin tortelli) with butter and sage. The pizza is pretty good too. It's pricier than some of the other spots but worth it for the location.

The osteria is also great for an evening aperitivo, with sofas at the perimeter for those just having drinks. It's a balmy summer's evening and time for a Campari Spritz. A jazz playlist sets the scene, the bells of Sant' Andrea ring out on the hour and there's a buzz in the air. Not a bad start to our first evening in Mantua.

Bar Caravatti - a local institution

You cannot come to Mantua without having an aperitivo at the iconic Bar Caravatti, a local institution since 1865. As luck would have it, it's located on Portici Broletto, a couple of doors up from our hotel. We're lucky enough to nab ourselves a table outside and order the house specialty, Aperitivo Caravatti is made from wine and aromatic bitters, the exact recipe of which is still a closely guarded secret. It's very good - less punchy than Campari but with a subtle bitterness that I like. It costs €4 and comes with free nibbles like most places in Mantua. We munch on some small sandwiches to complement the drink - anchovy and mascarpone in a small, soft roll. The verdict: surprisingly good and the saltiness of the anchovy goes well with the bitterness of the drink. It's a must-visit spot and the staff are very friendly, especially the chatty manager who looks after us on our last night in the city.

Carlo Govi

Our best meal experience in Mantua however was the fabulous Carlo Govi, in close competition with Il Sorpasso in Ferrara for best meal of our trip - you can read about that on part I of my blog here. Sadly, as of 2025, I read that it has permanently closed.

Osteria Libenter

We also like Osteria Libenter on Piazza Concordia, located at the back of Piazza delle Erbe. One of the benefits of staying in a small city is that you can walk to any number of dinner spots in minutes. Libenter is a modern bistro and attracts a younger, more hipster crowd - definitely the place to go to see and to be seen. Again the location is fabulous, if you can get an outdoor table, with a back drop of the Rotonda di San Lorenzo on one side and the Palazzo on the other.

We're not exactly hungry after many aperitivo snacks, and are happy to see that their food menu is essentially a series of tapas dishes. I ask the waitress about their sizes and she says "small" so we order five between us. Let's just say they were far from small. The five plates could barely fit on our table. We manage to eat about half of what's put before us so three would definitely have been enough. Take this from someone who has a rather large appetite.

What we liked: pecorino and pinenut tart, the spicy peppers (an Italian version of Pimientos de Padron) and Burrata.

I should mention the service which was slow and a tad chaotic, despite the fact it wasn't very busy. But overall it's a cool spot for a casual bite.

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A city of secret passageways: a fun and interactive scavenger hunt

First question - would you like to discover some of the secrets and curiosities of Mantua without having to commit to a guided tour? If so, then the ClueGo trail app might be for you. Part self-guided tour and part scavenger hunt, the app allows you to have an immersive and interactive experience through the city, following a trail of fascinating stories. Your powers of observation and creativity will be tested to solve the clues and riddles to get from one destination to the next. It's a fun and unique way to experience a city, and you can do it at your own pace.

Price: €17.99 for a max group of 5 people. It's a 2.5 km trail with 9 stops and 9 riddles. Join the fun here

Buona fortuna!!

Mantua Travel Guide: Unmissable places to visit

Palazzo Te, Mantua

For such a small city, there is so much to do and see here that it's hard to know where to start. If you're interested in history, art and architecture, then you will be in your element. Equally if your idea of heaven is people-watching with a gelato on a gorgeous piazza, then there are few more pleasant cities in which to do so. For the more active, you can take a stroll, run or cycle around the lake shore. For those who like their holidays activity-free, then there are some great boat trips to allow for lounging in scenic locations. Here are just some of the highlights and wonders of this most gorgeous of cities.

*Palazzo Te

Palazzo Te, Mantua

Located about a kilometre from the historic centre, this Renaissance villa was designed and executed by artist and architect Giulio Romano from 1525-35 and is an absolute masterpiece in every way. Famous for its elaborately frescoed rooms, this was commissioned as a place of leisure for Duke Federico II Gonzaga, and by leisure, read a place for him to entertain his mistress. One of the things that struck me was the sharp contrast between the exterior of the building which is so refined and elegant, the epitome of classical symmetry, and the wild and dramatically decorated interior rooms. There is such a sense of calm when you come through the entrance gate to the interior courtyard and garden - despite being located so close to the city, it is such a still and tranquil place.

And now for the interior - you are in for the treat of your life. The palace is made up of a series of interconnecting rooms, all highly decorated with a different theme for each one like the Hall of the Horses, Chamber of Amore and Psyche and the most famous, the Chamber of the Giants. We spend hours here, taking our time as we move through the rooms as each one brings something very different.

One of my favourites is the Hall of the Horses with its almost life-sized animals which appear to stand out in 3-D from the landscapes against which which they are painted. The Gonzaga family were breeders and loved horses so these are actual portraits of their favourite ones. I love the illusionism he employs: the horses seem to be standing on the lintels of the doors and on the painted cornice that runs around the walls. The line between what is real and what is painted is blurred until you walk closer. You realise that pillars and columns which look 3-D from a distance are in fact painted, as are the niches containing sculptural figures of gods and busts of important men and women in Gonzagan history.

In contrast to the tranquil beauty of that room is the Chamber of Cupid and Psyche, a room of the most sumptuous decoration featuring a series of mythological stories on every square inch of the upper levels of the room, even on the ceiling. All extremes of emotions are represented here: jealousy, rage, love, passion - it's high-drama on show and some of the scenes are outright erotic. The story ends happily on the bottom register with the marital banquet in full swing.

I've kept the best for last: the Chamber of the Giants. I've seen documentaries about this on television but nothing prepares you for the experience in reality. Every square inch of the wall and ceiling is covered in frescoes so you are completely consumed by the dramatic story representing the biggest earthquake in mythology, taken from Ovid's Metamorphosis.

We see the giants rebelling against Jupiter and his retribution as he strikes them down with thunder and lightning. The images below might give you some sense of the scale of the figures as they tower over you from all angles. The illusions are incredible - there is no distinction between the corners of the rooms - they appear to have rounded edges, which is not the case at all, and there is no division between where the ceiling meets the walls. The painted walls and columns appear to tilt towards you which has a slightly nauseating effect when you look upwards. The ceiling is an absolute tour-de-force: its painted dome seems to extend upwards into infinite space while the figures appear to be falling from the sky into our space. It's remarkable.

These are just three highlights for me but each room was beautiful and spectacular in its own way, some serene and some dramatic. Palazzo Te warrants a blog all of its own but if you want to read more, check out their website here.

*Palazzo Ducale & Castello di San Giorgio - Camera degli Sposi

There are many reasons to visit the ducal palace but this is one of the best ones. The ceiling and walls of this room, the 'bridal chamber', were painted in the late 15th century by Andrea Mantegna, an Italian painter who was way ahead of his time in his artistic experimentations. The ceiling is a spectacular feat of illusionism with its painted dome and dramatic perspective appearing to open the room to the sky beyond. The illusion is enhanced by the figures peering over the edge of the dome and the three little putti who have escaped and who appear to be standing on the ledge over our heads.

He goes further by adding a bar across the top of the dome on which a vase of plants is resting precariously, leaving you with the feeling that it could land on your head at any given moment. Not only that, but look closely at the apparently sculptural cornices and busts standing out in relief around the dome. Yes, you've guessed it - they are also painted. It's absolutely incredible.

A guided tour is highly recommended to really bring the experience to life, and to draw your attention to all the remarkable small details you may otherwise have missed. NB: the price of €15 is for the tour only. Entrance ticket needs to be purchased separately.

Castello di San Giorgio

The building itself is extremely impressive with the castle set against the backdrop of the lake and surrounded by a moat. It's enormous, with its imposing towers dominating the skyline. Our visit coincides with the Biennale Light Art group show where the outward-facing rooms of the palace, as well as some of the outdoor areas, are used as exhibition spaces.

Most were not visible during the day, with the exception of the dancing ballerina figures and horses in the water of the moat, and the centaurs on the adjoining bridge. While they look beautiful during the day, they're transformed at night by dramatic lightning. It was then the outer rooms of the palace came to life with a diverse range of contemporary light works. I love the contrast of modern artworks in an ancient setting.

You could spend a week exploring the castle and the palace. There is so much to see and the combined ticket is excellent value. The rooms of the palace itself are also beautiful, none more so than the Hall of Mirrors. The art on display is also wonderful, including frescoes by Pisanello and paintings by Rubens. I was particularly taken with the relief sculptures below ranging from the 4th century BC to 1400 AD. The drama and heightened human emotions that the sculptors have managed to evoke from stone is incredible.

Something else not to miss is the internal courtyard with its colonnaded walkways leading out to the beautifully tended garden with its perfumed plants. It's so serene and a nice place to take a moment to yourself mid-visit.

Last but not least, check to see if there are any temporary exhibitions on in the castle during your visit. We're very lucky to see a small but fascinating show by Austrian artist Hubert Sattler called 'Il giro del mondo in 8 stanze' - 'Around the world in 8 rooms'. Working in the mid to late 19th century, Sattler was an artist who spent his life travelling the world and visually documenting the places he visited. The canvases are large in scale with cities and landscapes captured in the most painstaking and minute geographic detail. It's almost like looking at a photograph in some instances, while others are more painterly. All are astonishing. The exhibition features his paintings of the cities of Paris, Rome, Venice, Boston, Toledo and London, among others and his landscapes of places as far ranging as Egypt, Jerusalem, Niagara Falls and the Grand Canyon.

* Stations of the Cross, St Peter's Cathedral

The cathedral has some serious competition in the church stakes in Mantua but I'm afraid it's completely overshadowed by the astounding basilica, the Church of Sant' Andrea, whose dome you can see across the square. In saying that, the ornate Baroque facade of the cathedral, located on Piazza Sordello, is spectacular with its dramatic white frontage which seems almost to be standing independently of the rest of building - you can see this best from the side views.

However our favourite thing about the interior is the modern interpretation of the Stations of the Cross by contemporary artist Andrea Jori from 1996 which really caught our attention. Executed in terracotta, they're profoundly affecting and full of emotion. It's a brave commission by this church to have such a bold and modern representation on their walls. Maybe in time it will inspire others to do the same.

* Church of Sant' Andrea

The basilica is one of the greatest examples of Early Renaissance architecture, its 15th century design attributed to the master Alberti, topped with an ornate dome which can be seen all across the historic centre. The facade is regarded as one of Alberti's masterpieces and I can see why. It dominates the square with its dramatic triumphal arch above the entrance which is a clear nod to antiquity, as are the classical columns and pediment above the door. The geometric pattern of the vault with the flower within is repeated again on the inside. All the elements, both inside and outside, flow together harmoniously.

The interior is strikingly beautiful, never more so than when the sunlight is streaming through the windows in the dome, the main light source for the church. The dome is painted with a series of swirling figures that seem to be ascending into the world beyond and bringing you with them.

In the first chapel on the left you will find the tomb of the painter Mantegna, responsible for the magnificent Camera degli Sposi, who died in Mantua. A fitting resting place for the great man.

* Gelato time

If you've had your fill of all things cultural for one day, then what could be better to revive your weary body than a gelato on Piazza Sordello? There are loads of spots to choose from, all with tables out the front to enjoy the view of the cathedral and the palazzo.

* Follow the lake-side path around the city

Now that you're fired up with sugar post-gelato, it might be a good time to explore the outer edges of the city by taking one of the lake shore paths. You can take a slow ambling passeggiata like the locals, or up the pace and run or cycle - whatever floats your boat. It's very quiet and peaceful, and shelter is provided by trees in some parts. The lake is just a few minutes' walk from Piazza Sordello.

Mantua offers a city bike service: Mobike. This is a station-free bike sharing scheme which operates through a downloadable app and bikes are accessed using a QR code. A security deposit is held on your card and you can either pay-as-you-go, which is charged at a rate of 30c per half-hour, or you can avail of a series of daily or monthly passes. You will see the bikes scattered all over the city.

* Take a boat trip on the lakes

This is a blissful way to spend an hour if your legs have finally packed in from your cultural excursions. We opt for a panoramic cruise with Navi Andes. It's a perfect way to appreciate the beauty and quiet majesty of this underrated city from a different viewpoint. The views of the palazzo and the castle are something special as you are approaching the city at the end of your tour. There is a pre-recorded audio guide on the boat in a number of different languages to talk you through what you're seeing on either side. The lakes which receive water from the River Mincio are home to a number of nature reserves and we were told to look out for birds such as storks, herons, egrets, kingfishers and moorhens, a few of which we glimpsed as we continued on our way. It's a sleepy gentle tour but I really enjoyed it.

It was with heavy hearts that we packed our bags on day four and left Mantua for Bologna. The city had completely and utterly captured our hearts and I have no doubt that it's somewhere we will return to again in the future. To continue with us on our journey to Bologna, click here.

Buon viaggio,

Karyn xx